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Touring Historic B&Bs in Charming Havre de Grace

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lighthouse
The Concord Point Lighthouse dates back to 1827
Some things remain a mystery, like why weathermen in the Harrisburg area appear to be fixated on a town that takes two hours to reach by car. For as far back as I can remember, local prognosticators have dutifully reported on the temperatures in Havre de Grace, Maryland, which makes little sense to me. After all, Philadelphia and West Chester are within striking distance, yet we rarely hear about the weather there.

My curiosity eventually got the best of me and I began researching the little town of less than 15,000. I learned that in 2014 the area was named by Smithsonian Magazine as one of the top 20 best small towns to visit, so I decided to travel there earlier in the month to learn more about what makes it so special.

I now understand why the place is so highly regarded, although I'm still a bit flummoxed as to why local weathermen are so entranced, other than the fact that it always seems warmer there than in my neck of the woods.

In my next blog post, I'll share more about this scenic area situated at the mouth of the Susquehanna River and the head of the Chesapeake Bay, but for now, I'll share a little more about three historic B&Bs, which are all located conveniently near shops, restaurants, and other destinations.

The Vandiver Inn
Located at 301 S. Union Avenue, the Vandiver Inn is known as a premier wedding destination, so chances are you may see a bride or two during your visit.

The mansion dates back to 1886 and is named after Murray Vandiver, who served as Secretary and Treasurer of Maryland and as Mayor of Havre de Grace.Vandiver built the large Victorian "cottage" as a present for his wife, so it seems quite fitting that today it is a popular wedding venue.
Inn
The Vandiver Inn
For a time, the house served as an apartment complex, but in the 1980s it was restored to its former glory. Stained glass windows which had previously been removed and sold were amazingly tracked down by the new owners and returned to their proper place.
Vandiver
An attractive bronze lights the way to the rooms upstairs.
Guests can choose from among three houses when staying at the Vandiver Inn. We spent the weekend in the comfortable Cockburn Room in the Kent House located right next door to the main mansion. The attractive room features a sitting area, a private entrance, and a porch overlooking the lawn. Breakfast is served at the main house each morning and can be enjoyed on the lovely and spacious front porch during warmer weather.
porch
A lovely setting for sipping on a large cuppa Joe. 
parlor
The sitting room at the Vandiver Inn
parlor
Guests help themselves to ala cart breakfast items here. Our hot morning dish was crab quiche.
bedroom
The inside of the Cockburn Room

hotel room
The sitting area of the Cockburn Room.

porch
What's happening behind me? We could have had a birds-eye view to an "I-Do" or two, but we decided to allow them their privacy. 
The Spencer-Silver Mansion
The Spencer-Silver Mansion dates back to 1896 and is known as one of the largest historic houses in Havre de Grace built as a private residence. Crafted of granite from nearby Port Deposit, the structure is recognized as the only High Victorian stone mansion in the city.
mansion
The Spencer Silver Mansion
The house was constructed for John Spencer, a merchant and foundry owner and was later purchased by Charles Silver, the owner of a local cannery.

At one point in time, according to owner Carol Nemeth, a group of doctors joined together with the intention of gutting the stunning structure to make way for a clinic. Luckily, Nemeth was willing to pivot from her occupation in International Banking to proprietor of a bed and breakfast.She used her passion for historical preservation to restore the home to its former glory and has been lovingly caring for the property for the past 29 years.

The main house consists of four guest rooms furnished with Victorian antiques. A two-story cottage tucked away behind the mansion features a whirlpool bath, a spiral staircase, a living room with a working fireplace and a queen-sized bed.
Parlor
Sitting room of the Spencer-Silver Mansion 

antiques
Second-floor sitting area of the Spencer-Silver Mansion

alcove
An alcove in a bedroom in the Spencer-Silver mansion
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A working antique phone from France
antiques
A sitting area on the second floor of the Spencer-Silver mansion
porch
Porch of the Spencer-Silver mansion
garden
Guests are encouraged to relax in the secluded backyard garden


La Cle D'or GuestHouse
Antique lovers will find something of interest in every turn of the head at La Cle D'or (Key of Gold) Guesthouse located at 226 North Union Avenue.

The home dates back to 1868 and was once the home to Henry Harrison Hopkins, a pharmacist who built the structure in the Second Empire Style. The Maryland Inventory of Historic Properties describes the home as having "an eclectic, even eccentric style that became popular after the Civil War."

Owner Ron Browning is always ready, willing and available to discuss the provenance of each antique with an encyclopedic knowledge and guests are encouraged to inquire about the pieces, many of which are for sale.

The former history teacher owns furniture that dates back to the 1700s, Delft pottery dating back to the 1600s, an 1800's "flow blue" china collection, documents signed by Lafayette and Louis XIV and an authentic Renoir, to name just a few of the impressive items on display.
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A front view of La Cle D'or Guesthouse
patio
A lion guards the front of the La Cle D'or Guesthouse

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Living room of La Cle D'or

alcove
Alcove at La Cle D'or

antiques
Dining room at La Cle D'or

antiques
Antiques at La Cle D'or


antiques
The Lapis Lazuli room at La Cle D'or
Russian
The Russian Room at La Cle D'or
patio
Back patio at La Cle D'or
These interesting, excellent and comfortable lodging options are just a few that are available for your stay in Havre de Grace. For those who enjoy architecture and history, they also have the added advantage of being located on the Lafayette Trail.

Many thanks to Tyler Buck for taking the time to show me around the town during my stay and for literally opening the doors to these beautiful venues.

Next Up: Exploring Havre de Grace



Daytripping along the Lafayette Trail in Havre De Grace

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Located in Harford County Maryland at the confluence of the Susquehanna River and the Chesapeake Bay, Havre de Grace is a scenic and small walkable town that is ideal for a laid-back getaway.
sign


Those who read this blog regularly may have noticed a recent post about several beautiful B&Bs located conveniently within walking distance of restaurants and shops, specifically the Vandiver InnLa Cle D'or Guest House and the Spencer-Silver Mansion. The elegantly appointed Bed and Breakfasts are not only rich in history, but are also located on the Lafayette Trail, which is a fantastic way to see the highlights of Havre De Grace. The scenic walk is demarcated in blue on the sidewalks of the town and leads visitors on a three-mile-long path to highlights like historic structures, parks, museums, and marinas.

Traversing the Lafayette Trail

Located on the Western Bank of the Susquehanna River, the Susquehanna Museum at the Lock House is the first stop along the Trail. The private, not-for-profit educational institution educates visitors on the importance of canals in facilitating early trade and commerce in the area. Visitors learn about the building of the 45-mile canal that ran from Havre De Grace to Wrightsville, Pa and the "locks" that were devised to raise and lower canal boats to adjust for the difference in elevation as they passed through the channels. 
museum
The Lock House Museum
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A model interprets how the locks operated
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Toll log at the Susquehanna Museum at The Lockhouse

The sturdy, two-story structure overlooking the Susquehanna was built in 1840 and was home to the lucky lock tender (what a view) and his family. The house also served as an office for toll collections. Free tours are available to the public from April through October.

Next stop is the Tidewater Grille where we enjoyed lunch and a nice view of the Bay. In keeping with the theme, I ordered a lunch of clams, shrimp and mussels.
restaurant
The deck at the Tidewater Grille

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Lunch of clams, shrimp and mussels

Further along the trail at 408 North Union Avenue sits the old Pitcock Hardware Building which dates back to 1890. Today it operates as the Bahoukas Antique Mall and Beer MuZeum.
Visitors can browse a large collection of antique toys, furniture, sports memorabilia and other vintage items. Be sure to visit the second floor to inspect the plethora of breweriana on display.
antiques
Bahoukas Antique Mall and Beer MuZeum is housed in a former hardware store that dates back to 1890.
beer
Breweriana located upstairs at Bahoukas

Not far from Bahoukas is the old Chesapeake Hotel. The structure, built in 1896, is particularly noteworthy because it was a favorite of Al Capone, who would book a room there while visiting the nearby Graw Racetrack. We learned a little more about "The Graw" thanks to Annie McLhinney-Cochran, who operates McLhinney's Speakeasy Museum and International Market located in downtown Havre De Grace.

According to McLhinney, Maryland was the only state that refused to embrace prohibition. "Capone gambled here because he could drink," she said. Today the Chesapeake Hotel operates as a restaurant by the name of the Backfin Blues Creole De Graw.
Creole

Quite close to the Backfin Blues is a nondescript structure once known as the A.P. McCombs Building, built by the founder of the Havre Republican newspaper, now known as "The Record." Today it houses JoeRetro, a vintage Market, featuring gifts, vinyl records and new, used and upcycled items. I found a cool Pyrex necklace there. The store features the largest collection of Pyrex cookware I have ever seen.
Keep an eye out for another, much fancier A.P. McCombs building in town--you can't miss it. The beautiful pink dwelling done in the Queen Anne style is located at 120 S. Union Avenue and was built in 1880.
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This attractive, pink Queen Anne style house once belonged to newspaper mogul A.P. McCombs
pyrex
Statement necklaces crafted from broken Pyrex.
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Drinking, smoking and cards--a convenient gift for the enablers out there

vintage
An A.P. McCombs building that is a little more utilitarian in style. Now home to JoRetro.
A little further along the trail is the Henry Harrison Hopkins House built in 1868. Today it operates as La Cle D'or Guesthouse, an elegant B&B which features an outstanding collection of antiques.
livingroom
An alcove at La Cle D'or

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The Lapis Lazuli room at La Cler D'or
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The patio at La Cle D'or
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La Cle D'or from the front
Next on the Lafayette Trail is one of the largest houses built as a private residence in Havre De Grace--the Spencer-Silver Mansion. It, too, operates as a Bed and Breakfast.
mansion
The Spencer-Silver Mansion dates back to 1896
bedroom
An alcove in a bedroom of the Spencer-Silver Mansion
Within sight of the Spencer-Silver mansion is the Vandiver Inn. The Inn operates as a B&B and has been the site of many "I Dos," which is appropriate since it was a gift to a bride from her husband. Murray Vandiver served as State Secretary and Treasurer of Maryland and as Mayor of Havre De Grace.
Bed and Breakfast
A view from the front of the Vandiver Inn
porch
This porch was made for relaxing at the Vandiver Inn
Take the Lafayette Trail down to the Bay and you'll see the old Bayou Hotel.  The four-story fieldstone building opened in 1921 when Jazz was all the rage. It was forced to close its doors in 1932 due to a fire. Upon re-opening, further losses were incurred when "sinkboxing," the favored form of duck hunting in the area, was outlawed. The Depression proved to be its death knell and in 1934, the hotel went out of business. The structure later became home to Franciscan nuns before it was sold in 1953 and converted to apartments. Years later, after a period of extensive renovations, developers transformed the hotel into luxury condominiums.
hotel
The Bayou hotel, popular during the Jazz Age, still stands today.
The Concord Point Lighthouse is stop number 41 on the Lafayette Trail. The oldest, continuously operating lighthouse in the country was once slated for demolition before a concerned citizen's group banded together to save it.  I was shocked to see how small it is!
lighthouse
The Concord Point Lighthouse is the oldest, continuously operating lighthouse in the country.
Nearby at 720 Concord Street is "The Keeper's Dwelling," which dates back to 1827 and served as the original lightkeeper's house. The honor of serving as lightkeeper was bestowed upon John O'Neill for his efforts in keeping the Brits literally "at bay."
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A front view and the inside of "The Keeper's Dwelling"
The Keeper's Dwelling is open from 1 to 5 p.m.on weekends from April through October.

Further on down the road at 201 St. John Street is the Seneca Cannery, which has been repurposed into a large antique market. If you want to get a flavor for an area, visit a local antique market. A few months ago I visited Strasburg, Pennsylvania and discovered an array of old railroad artifacts from lanterns, to conductor's logs, time tables and an old doctor's case used on a train. Guess what I found at the Seneca Cannery? That's right, decoys--more than a few of them--and a lot of cool other things too. Oh and if your relatives have any old, wooden clothespins, it might be a good idea to keep them around. They're selling for $10 a pop.
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Decoys on sale at the Seneca Cannery
lamp
An antique sewing machine repurposed into a lamp
clothespins
And, of course, we know what these are--the one in the middle is selling for $10
There are many more stops along the Lafayette Trail. For those who enjoy shopping, Havre De Grace offers plenty of opportunities for that as well, with its blocks of shops selling anything from giftware, to jewelry, to art and apparel.
candle
I purchased one this artifact candle at Blue Heron downtown. The artifact was a liberty coin. 
I think my favorite shop in Havre De Grace was Glyph. Located at 233 St. John Street, Glyph sells high-end stationery, writing instruments and other unique and interesting items that make perfect gifts. I just had to take a picture of this beautiful gift wrap.
giftwrap

There are plenty of restaurants from which to choose in Havre De Grace. For lunch, I recommend The Vineyard Wine Bar located at 142 N. Washington Street. While there, I enjoyed a delicious chicken salad wrapped in naan.
lunch
I finished every bit of this delicious chicken salad wrapped in naan and served at The Vineyard Wine Bar 
A unique place I stumbled on during my trip was Washington Street Books and Music. I entered expecting a typically sedate book store, but encountered something else entirely. Can I really call it "new age," these days? Abba blared over the sound system, while rows of 20-somethings browsed through comic books that lined one of the walls. Situated around the retail space chockablock with crystals, toys, minerals and other curiosities, were dozens of floor-to-ceiling glass cases displaying an array of costumes. I soon realized that this was more than a bookstore. The owner, seeing my quizzical look, explained that an adjacent room contained even more costumes. It turns out that he is a movie buff and is in the process of creating an entertainment museum. To date, the store boasts a collection of 250 movie costumes, scripts, and props from more than 70 different films. It's a shame I couldn't get decent pictures due to the glare, but I'll share one below just to give you an idea.

movies
This dress was worn by Jennifer Lawrence in the movie, "The Hunger Games." 

Exploring Havre De Grace can be done leisurely in a period of two or three days and if the weather is nice, don't neglect to "walk the boards" of the scenic Promenade.
boats
Sights from the Promenade above and below.
heron


If you, too would like to walk the Lafayette Trail, brochures are available at the Havre De Grace visitor's center located at 450 Pennington Avenue, or you can download the mobile app by visiting explorehavredegrace.com and tapping the "Walk the Lafayette Trail" logo.

Now's a great time to visit since most museums close at the end of October and don't re-open until April.

Exploring Patsy Cline's Humble Roots in Winchester, Virginia

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Patsy Cline marker
A marker in front of the house where Cline grew up.
For Patsy Cline fans, it’s difficult to believe that the year 2017 marked the 54th anniversary of the legendary singer’s death, but fans and devotees continue to keep her memory alive.

Movies, books, musicals, plays and even blogs pay tribute to the life of the iconic performer and recording artist. A loyal fan club, run by her daughter Julie Fudge, is still going strong. Those interested in sharing their enthusiasm can learn more about the club here.  
For the devoted Patsy Cline fans who enjoy her songs, sing her praises and are just plain “Crazy” about her, the pilgrimage to Winchester is a must. 
A few weeks ago I visited her humble abode located in a residential section of Winchester at 608 S. Kent Street where tours are conducted from April through October.

The modest house on Kent Street in Winchester, Virginia where Patsy Cline grew up

Born to a Teenage Mother

Few would have predicted that future stardom would blossom from Patsy Cline's humble beginnings. Born Virginia Patterson Hensley in 1932 to a 16-year-old seamstress mother and a 43-year-old blacksmith father, the road was often rocky for the family, who, by all accounts, moved around quite a bit. After the father left the household in 1948, the family settled into the small Kent Street home pictured above.  
Cline, who was introduced to music at an early age, often sang along with her mother Hilda in church. To make up for the income lost when the father left, Patsy dropped out of high school, working as a soda jerk and waitress. Despite her circumstances, the burgeoning young singer held tightly to her hopes and dreams. 
Cline admired stars of the era like Jo Stafford and Hank Williams and in 1947 convinced a radio disc jockey to allow her to perform on his show. The talent coordinator, impressed by her potential, invited her back. This, in turn, led to more appearances at local establishments where she would sport her signature fringed Western outfits. 


sketches
Copies of Cline's original sketches are on display in the dining room. Patsy would design the costumes and Hilda would sew them.

Patsy Cline sketches

Western costumes
Replicas of Cline's costumes hang in the dining room.

Patsy Cline gained national attention in 1957, when she landed a gig on Arthur Godfrey’s Talent Scouts. Singing her now-famous song, “Walkin’ After Midnight,” she wowed the audience, sending the applause meter into the stratosphere. “Walkin’” shot up to number two on the country music charts and climbed to number 16 on the pop charts, officially earning her the distinction of being one of the first country singers to achieve a “crossover” pop hit record.




From Triumph to Tragedy

Cline reached the height of her popularity in the early 1960s when she was named the number one female artist in 1961 and 1962. When she released, “I Fall to Pieces,” it, too, became a crossover hit and climbed to number one on the country charts and number six on the pop charts, once again demonstrating her wide appeal.  She went on to receive acclaim for a string of hits before tragedy struck.

On March 3, 1963, Cline sang at a benefit held at the Soldiers and Sailors Memorial Hall in Kansas City for the family of disc jockey “Cactus” Jack Call, who had died in an automobile accident approximately one month earlier. Dense fog prevented her from flying out of town the following day. Although friend Dottie West tried to convince her to take the 16-hour drive back to Nashville in the car, Cline opted instead to fly out on a small Piper PA-24 Comanche plane on March 5, ignoring reports of continued inclement weather which included high winds.



Cline’s manager, Randy Hughes, untrained in instrument flying, took the helm and on the evening of March 5, 1963, crashed the aircraft in the driving rain approximately 90 miles from Nashville.  Cline was dead at the age of 30.
Ten years after her death, in 1973, she became the first female artist to be inducted into the Country Music Hall of Fame.

Fans Keep Her Memory Alive

To this day, fans remain dedicated to keeping Patsy Cline’s memory alive. Her childhood house is open to tours, guided by dedicated volunteer docents who are eager to share details of the singer’s short life.


The dining room of the Patsy Cline house where many costumes were created.
"It is a joy to meet the people who come from all over the world to visit the home of the legendary singer. Her music is still played and is very popular even though she died more than 50 years ago. I am proud that she grew up in the same community where I was born and live," said docent and volunteer Joyce McKay.


kitchen
Kitchen of the Patsy Cline House


Patsy Cline living room
Living room of the Patsy Cline House


kitchen nook at the Patsy Cline house
Kitchen nook overlooks the large backyard where the family grew vegetables.


The living room where the family watched Patsy perform

Fan Mark Borchers said he wasn’t exposed to Patsy Cline until 1980, when he took advantage of an introductory offer to purchase six eight-track tapes for a penny as part of his enrollment in a music club. “One of those was the Patsy Cline Story. "I played that tape to death and still have it to this day,” he said. Borchers, who read a book about Cline, learned her mother Hilda’s general address and decided to send her a note. Hilda wrote back and that was the beginning of a meaningful friendship. Not only did Borchers learn details on how to join the fan club, but he was eventually invited to Hilda’s house where he dined with the family and even held Cline’s Lifetime Achievement Grammy. “Hilda retrieved it from the closet and I held it in my hands--talk about a special moment in a young man’s life,” said Borchers.


Paying Respects
Having finished my tour of the house, I took a moment to pay my respects to the singer who is laid to rest at nearby Shenandoah Memorial Park with her beloved husband Charlie Dick. Her unassuming grave can be spotted behind the funeral home. Be sure to bring along at least one penny to lay on her grave--a tradition that's said to bring good luck.

grave
Patsy Cline is buried in the Shenandoah Memorial Park next to her husband Charlie Dick.
To learn more about the Patsy Cline house, or to plan a visit, be sure to visit the web page at http://celebratingpatsycline.org/.





Foodie Fun on Arthur Avenue

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butcher shop
Lamb, pork, pancetta, veal, rabbit, pheasant, tripe, brains--you can find it all at Biancardi's.

Italians instinctively know that food and love go together like spaghetti and marinara sauce. I was lucky to learn that lesson early while growing up and feasting on delicious Italian food crafted lovingly by my grandmother Josephine. Nana spent many hours in her small, cozy kitchen preparing a variety of Italian specialties as only she could, but it was her ravioli and meatballs that we loved the most.

The smell of simmering sauce would permeate the air tempting our taste buds as we approached the porch. Without fail, my dad would make a bee-line for the kitchen, grab a fork and stab a meatball from a simmering pot, inevitably dripping sauce on his shirt in an effort to escape her smack as she shooed him away. I think they both secretly enjoyed the ritual.

Years have gone by and they are gone, but every time I bite into a good Italian meatball, or indulge in a decadent dish of ravioli, I'm reminded of how much I miss them both and wonder if either of them visited Arthur Avenue at some point in their lives.

I recently learned of the foodie destination located in the Belmont section of the Bronx thanks to a local travel  travel agency that offered a bus trip to the area. It piqued my curiosity, so I signed up and was soon exploring the neighborhood also known as "the real Little Italy."

Chockablock with Blocks of Shops
No matter where you live in these United States, you're likely noticing the demise of the "mom-and-pop" establishments. The fact that many continue to thrive in this small area is a testament to their grit and determination.

Many of the businesses are passed down from generation to generation. Maria Cappiello is just one of the individuals who shared her "Arthur Avenue" story with me. Her father was born in 1929 in a cold water flat above his parent's butcher shop on the famous street. "He and his brothers all became butchers and his sister married a man who worked in the store. That man went on to open a deli in the market that is still thriving today," said Capiello, whose mother arrived from Italy in 1951, moved to the neighborhood and frequented the shop. Cappiello said she spent many fun times on Arthur Avenue visiting both sides of her family in the 1970's and 80's and  returns to this day with her children to visit and dine in the old neighborhood.

Danielle Oteri, founder of food tour company "Feast on History," also has familial ties to the area. Her great-grandfather Albino Oteri opened a fish market on Arthur Avenue in 1916.Today she shares stories with tourists who come from miles around to stock up on provisions and take a leisurely stroll around town to indulge in bits and bites of this and that.
mozzarella
Treats along the way include salami and freshly made mozzarrella at Joe's Italian Deli. (Photo Courtesy of Danielle Oteri, Feast on History)
"We have many amazing mom-and-pop shops and our goal is to keep people coming back," said Oteri. And it appears they do. Many individuals who rode the bus with me knew the routine and  brought coolers along to stow their purchases for the ride home.

Oteri takes guests to 12 iconic establishments where they can taste products and learn more about the history of the businesses, many which have survived for years, like Tino's, known for its pizza (shown below), subs, dried pasta and an impressive selection of olive oil and vinegar.
pizza
Tino's delicatessen is another stop along the tour. (Photo courtesy of Danielle Oteri, Feast on History)
A popular stop along the way is Calabria's pork shop known for its "sausage chandeliers." A few of the stand-out products include soppresatta, capicollo and a paprika-coated Italian bacon named pancetta Calebrese, "It's a butcher shop devoted solely to pork, which used to be more common years ago," said Oteri, adding that they butcher and cure all their own meat onsite, rather than in a warehouse. "The quality is magical," she said.
pork
Pork chandeliers at Calabria's (Photo courtesy of Feast on History)
Cheese lovers will find a little slice of heaven at Calandra's, which has been in operation since the 1930's. "At one time Calandra's used to sell ricotta only," said Oteri.
cheese shop
A shot of the interior at Calandra's 
Today Calandra's offers an array of cheeses, pasta, sausage and more. I spotted the curiosity pictured below on one of the shelves and learned later that it's a lemon-flavored antacid that hails from Italy and is often taken after meals as a digestive. Galeffi is touted as "thirst-quenching" and "refreshing." The blurb on the bottle gave me a chuckle. It promises a taste that is superior to prior versions. Later research revealed that it is used as a substitute for Brioschi, which has gone out of business. But enough about indigestion...let's talk ravioli!
digestif
Galeffi--an Italian product used to aid digestion
Another Bronx institution located not far from Calandra's is Borgatti's Ravioli & Egg Noodles, founded in 1935. The third-generation, family run, specialty pasta shop has been recognized by the Food Network and Epicurious Magazine and was awarded a 29 out of 30 for quality by Zagat's Marketplace survey. All I know is that the overstuffed cheesy pillows were among the best ravioli I've ever tasted.
pasta
Borgatti's, founded in 1935, was where I purchased some of the best ravioli I ever tasted.

truffle oil
Purchases made during my trip.

Also worthy of mention is Teitel Brothers. The third-generation, family run business traces its humble beginnings to Jacob and Morris Teitel, a pair of Austrian Jewish immigrants who made their way to America by way of Ellis Island. It's been reported that Jacob speak Italian before he mastered English because his neighbors were predominantly Italian. For more than a century, the family has been doing business on Arthur Avenue and customers continue to flock there for Italian gourmet specialty items like imported olive oil, canned tomatoes, aged vinegar and fresh sausage, to name but a few.

A must-stop for pastry lovers is Egidio Pastry which dates back to 1912 and is known as the oldest pastry shop in the Bronx. The shop remained in the family until the 1990's when the last daughter (who was in her 90's at the time) sold it to a woman of Italian descent by the name of  Carmella Lucciola. "Carmella still uses all the original recipes written by hand on onion skin paper stored in a box in the kitchen. Bakers continue to refer to those recipes," said Oteri.


And no trip to the area is complete without a stop at the Arthur Avenue Retail Market where you'll find Mike's Deli, which earned national attention when Bobby Flay challenged proprietor David Greco to an eggplant Parmesan throw down. To find out who won, you can visit the webpage here. 

During my visit, I even witnessed a few fireworks while strolling between the stalls. An older woman and a younger female (whom I assumed were family) were engaged in a heated exchange. The younger one stormed off the job while the men just smiled and shook their heads; they knew better then to get involved. Don't ask me how I know. Ahh, nostalgia.

Farmer's Market
Scenes from Arthur Avenue Retail Market, taken from my perch at the Bronx Beer Hall.

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Peter's Meat Market in the Arthur Avenue Retail Market
The retail market carries nearly everything you'll need for a splendid repast, from meats, to cheeses, to pasta, fish and more. The Bronx Beer Hall is a relative newcomer that opened in 2013.  Located in the heart of the action, it specializes in beer from local breweries and provides the shopper with a chance to take a break, grab a bite and enjoy an adult libation. I unloaded my packages on the bar and savored a glass of Cabernet before heading back out to explore. 

Restaurants Aplenty
Arthur Avenue is no place for those watching their "carb" intake, so save up those calories and  consider ditching the diet before visiting. I never experienced the food at the restaurants on Arthur Avenue since my time in the area was limited. Nonetheless, I did manage to snack along the way, tasting a little here and a little there.

Having heard much about Michelin-recommended Tra Di Noi (meaning 'between us'), I made it a point to poke my head inside to snap a picture of the old-school, red-checked tablecloth, Italian mainstay.
Italian Restaurant
Italian restaurant
Tra Di Noi is listed on TripAdvisor as the #1 restaurant in the Bronx. 
The intimate trattoria ranks number one on TripAdvisor with its classical Italian cuisine . Chef Marco Coletta, who once cooked for Italian nobility, brings over 50 years of cooking experience to the table. It's definitely on my list of places to try when I return in May. 

Walk off those calories

During my exploration, I stumbled on the Bronx Library Center, where I bought a few books and browsed amidst the stacks. I was pleasantly surprised to discover a thriving library in a busy shopping area.  

Other Bronx destinations worthy of mention include the Bronx Zoo and the New York Botanical Gardens both located in Bronx Park. The Bronx Zoo, is known for being the largest metropolitan zoo in the United States and is among the largest in the world averaging approximately 2.15 million visitors each year. 

The nearby botanical gardens are recognized as a National Historic Landmark. Dating back to 1891 the destination spans 250 acres and attracts nearly one million visitors per year. Events and exhibitions are listed on their website.
garden
The New York Botanical Garden features an impressive collection of plants, rotating exhibits, educational programs and a host of events according to season. (Photos courtesy of the New York Botanical Garden)
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The NYBG features a Holiday Train show, which runs from November 22, 2015 through January 15, 2018
These are but a few of the age-old institutions that make Arthur Avenue what it is today. Have you visited? I'd be interested in knowing about your favorites before I return.











Bethlehem Pennsylvania Earns Its Name as "Christmas City"

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Are you one of those overachievers who has already trimmed the tree, bought and wrapped the gifts, baked the cookies and is spending time scanning Pinterest for more projects to complete before Santa arrives? Me neither, so adding an out-of-town getaway to your list might be piling on. (If you're wondering why my blog posts haven't been as frequent, let's just say I blame the season for the reason.)  As an enabler, it's my job to encourage a self-indulgent getaway this time of year. After all,  if your nerves are frazzled, it might be what you need to recharge your batteries so you can return home refreshed and ready to tackle any projects that await. Things do seem to get done one way or another, don't they? Have faith and keep moving is my motto.

One special place I like to visit each year is Bethlehem,located in the Lehigh Valley of  Pennsylvania. And yes, I'll admit I've written about the regon a few times, but there's so much to do and see in the area that I always seem to find new ground to cover. 

Selecting a Place for an Overnight Stay

Since I first set foot in Bethlehem about a decade ago, I immediately became enamored with the historic Hotel Bethlehem, which is particularly striking this time of year, touting dozens of wreaths, Christmas trees and larger-than-life toy soldiers.  The hotel, constructed in 1922 at the direction of Bethlehem Steel President Charles M. Schwab, is located within walking distance of shops, galleries, restaurants and boutiques. Luminaries like Thomas Edison (pardon the pun) and Henry Ford were early visitors and the list of celebrities who have visited is rather long. Evidence remains in the form of pictures, which decorate the wall of the first floor Tap Room, so be sure to stroll over and have a look. 

A picture taken from the second floor of the Hotel Bethlehem.

Staff sets up for Sunday brunch.




Pictures taken from the second floor of the Hotel Bethlehem.


The Hotel Bethlehem is also known for its fabulous brunch, which has earned a spot in the top 100 brunches list as recognized by the OpenTable Diners' Choice Awards. Every Sunday from 10:30 a.m. to 1:00 p.m., people come from miles around to enjoy the bounteous buffet, which includes a selection of seafood, a carving station, made-to-order waffles, omelets and more. 
The hotel also offers fine-dining at "1741 on the Terrace," where CIA graduate Chef Michael Adams demonstrates his culinary talents with dishes like "Osso Bucco," lobster ravioli and New Zealand salmon. 
"1741 on the Terrace" features Palladian windows and Moravian tile floors.
Don't leave without checking out the murals in the "Mural Ballroom." Painted by artist George Gray in 1936, the seven murals tell the stories of people and events in the area, from the founding of Bethlehem, to the birth of the iron and steel industry. Ben Franklin is pictured visiting the area to counsel the Moravians on self protection and a painting of Asa Packer recognizes the businessman's humble beginnings as a "Breaker Boy." Packer later controlled the Lehigh Valley Railroad, before founding Lehigh University.
The Liberty bell was removed from Philadelphia to prevent the British from melting it into cannon. The wagon broke down in Bethlehem, as depicted above. 

A mural depicting Casimir Pulaski, Father of the American Cavalry, visiting the Marquis de Lafayette in Bethlehem in 1777.
Behind the Hotel Bethlehem is an historic area known as the Colonial Industrial Quarter where restored buildings located along the Monocacy Creek tell a tale of days of yore. Among them are a limestone tannery and waterworks (1792), known as the first municipal water-pumping system in the country. Replica buildings include a springhouse and a blacksmith shop where docents demonstrate and explain the craft. Exploring the area is free and signs along the path provide important historical details.



Located across the street from the Hotel Bethlehem is the oldest, continuously operating bookstore in the world. Established in 1745, the Moravian Book Shop offers a wide range of books and out-of-the-ordinary gifts to suit a variety of tastes.

For those interested in gaming and shopping, the Sands Casino Resort is an excellent choice and offers not only comfortable accommodations, but a nice variety of dining options. Seafood lovers will enjoy Emeril's Fish House, with selections like King Crab legs and striped bass, oysters, scallops, crab cakes and a mouthwatering and popular buttermilk fried chicken. 
The Sands offers comfortable and spacious accommodations.

Unique lighting fixtures at Emeril's Fish House.
Buttermilk fried chicken at Emeril's.
Another famous chef represented at the Sand's is the talented "Buddy" Valastro. At "Buddy V's" the cake boss offers up food inspired by Valastro family gatherings with dishes like steak pizzaiola, linguine and clams with lobster and a wide-range of desserts ranging from Cannoli to Zeppole.

Take your chances on slots or table games after dinner, or consider heading next door to the Outlet at Sands Bethlehem. There you'll find a retailers like Charming Charlie's, Coach, Lenox, Dressbarn, Christopher Banks, Chicos and Talbot's, to name just a few.
Guests try their luck at the slots at Sands.
The Outlets at the Sands feature a variety of retailers. 

Visiting the Hoover-Mason Trestle at the Steel Stacks
Not far from the Sands is the Hoover-Mason Trestle, which I visited for the first time this year. The Hoover Mason Trestle was once used as a narrow gauge railroad to transport coke, limestone and iron ore needed to make iron. The railroad carried the materials from the ore yards to the blast furnace. Today people can get up close and personal with the 46-foot tall, 2,000-foot-long trestle via public walkway. As someone who once lived near Steelton, Pennsylvania, I am quite familiar with Bethlehem Steel, which employed many individuals in the area.  


Peering down into a building where employees once worked. 
Museums Galore
Bethlehem has a rich history and, as such, there are no lack of museums. A few include the Apothecary (located behind the Moravian bookstore), the Moravian Museum of Bethlehem,  Gemeinhaus, the Sisters' House, Burnside Plantation and the Goundie House, which is especially fun this time of year. Each day from December 5 through December 23, around 5:30 p.m., a town crier calls for everyone to gather round and a child is selected from the crowd to open the door of the house located at 501 Main Street. What's behind the door usually creates a bit of a buzz until the surprise is revealed, be it  carolers, bagpipers or quartets who emerge from the house to entertain the crowd and afterwards distribute treats to the wide-eyed children. 

For the first time this year, I visited the only museum in Pennsylvania to be dedicated to the decorative arts. The Kemerer Museum of Decorative Arts is housed in three, interconnected, mid-1800's homes and features period rooms and galleries containing furnishings that reflect changes in style over the past three centuries. This time of year the museum is decorated for the season.


The Kemerer Museum of Decorative Arts Features Several Christmas trees to celebrate the season.







Celebrating American Excellence at the National Museum of Industrial History 
A newcomer to the Bethlehem scene is the National Museum of Industrial History (NMIH), which opened its doors in August of 2016. Housed in a 100-year-old former Bethlehem Steel Facility, the NMIH features approximately 100 machines borrowed from the Smithsonian's 1876 collection. The mission?  To tell the story of America's industrial achievements through the accomplishments of our workers, innovators and entrepreneurs.
An old mosaic that was discovered in one of the Bethlehem Steel offices. 
This Corliss Pumping Engine used by York Water Company kept the city supplied with water during Hurricane Agnes in 1972. 
This slide-valve steam engine powered planes, drills, presses, boring mills and lathes.
One of the first steam hammers used in America was crafted in Manchester, England. 
This "winder" transferred yarns from skeins to bobbins and was typically operated by younger workers in a mill until the 1920's until child labor laws became more restrictive.
Bobbin boys and girls worked nine hours a day in the silk mills in the early 20th century.


Further Off the Beaten Path
If you have some extra time and would like to explore the surrounding area, consider a stop at Vynecrest Vineyards & Winery. The family-owned business is known as the oldest vineyard in Lehigh County and makes approximately 22,000 gallons of wine per year. Today they offer a total of 20 varieties. 


Tasting a few varieties in the lower level of the business. 

Upstairs a crowd begins to gather on a Saturday night.
The Glasbern Inn located in Folgelsville, Pennsylvania offers overnight accommodations and a romantic restaurant that is open to the public seven days a week. People come from miles around to dine in the highly regarded restaurant housed in a 19th-century barn that features soaring ceilings, a cozy fireplace and field stone walls. The owners make it their mission to stay as local as possible in procuring their ingredients, many of which are grown on site. 


Grass-fed beef tenderloin served at the Glasbern Inn.

After reading about all there is to do, you might understand why I find the Bethlehem area so enchanting during Christmastime and if you're lucky, you might encounter a few carolers strolling the streets in period dress.

If you can't find time in your schedule to visit during the Christmas season, there are still plenty of things to do throughout the rest of the year and with a little planning, perhaps you'll have the time to return for next year's Christmas season. 

Sharing the Charm of Sharon, Pennsylvania

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A trip to Sharon, Pennsylvania had been on my list of places to visit for quite some time for no other reason than the fact that the Buhl Mansion Guesthouse and Spa is located there. Other than that, I knew little about the small town located approximately 75 miles northwest of Pittsburgh. 
As I considered visiting the mansion, I embarked upon a bit of research and learned that the imposing, fortress-like structure is not only listed on the National Register of Historic Places, but is also among America's Top 10 Romantic Inns.What's not to love? 
Over the years, I'd forget about it, only to be periodically nudged by a Facebook post here and there. Eventually, I decided to drop a few hints to my husband. He demanded to know more about why we should visit the area and I came up lacking. All I know is that I adore old castle-like structures and witnessing its elegance firsthand would be a lovely anniversary present, so, like the sweetheart that he is, he gave in and we set out to explore the area this past October.
It turns out that the little town of Sharon holds many surprises. 

History and Hospitality at the Buhl Mansion
mansion
Buhl Mansion (front view)
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Buhl Mansion (Greenhouse and grounds)
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Buhl Mansion (Back entrance)

When we pulled up to the Buhl Mansion, I was stunned to learn that the B&B is situated in a residential neighborhood. And to think that all this time I was envisioning a rural, out-of-the-way area in some remote countryside. It's difficult to conceive of it any other way when viewing the website, but this turned out to be a good thing due to its proximity to the downtown shopping area.

The Buhl mansion was built in 1891 for the Buhl family that ran Sharon Iron Works. Yale-educated Frank H. Buhl left his home in Detroit in 1887 to help his father run the business. It turns out that Frank had a certain business savvy because just one year later, the company became Mercer County's largest employer. Buhl then went on to found the Buhl Steel Company in 1896, which merged into the National Steel Company three years later. He eventually became known as the "Father of the Industrial Shenango Valley" and shortly before his retirement, the National Steel company merged into the United States Steel Corporation.  

Buhl and his wife Julia Forker had no children of their own but were happy to use their considerable fortune to help support the children of their community. A list of their philanthropic and business endeavors hangs on the wall near the dining room of the mansion.
Julia Forker
The 2.5-storey residence is done in Richardsonian Romanesque style and made of ashlar sandstone, featuring round arches and several turrets with copper-capped spires. Unfortunately, the home fell into disrepair after years of neglect. The property caught the eye of Jim and Donna Winner, a local couple with a passion for saving historic landmarks. In 1996, they decided to restore the structure to its former splendor and embarked upon a multi-million-dollar renovation. Today the beautifully appointed inn touts 10 well-appointed guestrooms and a full-service spa.
Coffered ceiling
The foyer of Buhl Mansion.

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A stained-glass window on the second floor. 
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Bronze statues in the first-floor sitting area. 

Buhl living room
First floor sitting area.


painting
Manet's "Nana." 

painting
Renoir's "Spring Bouquet."
foyer
Photo taken from the second floor.
fruit
First course at breakfast. 

brunch
Mike relaxes in a comfy, over-sized chair in the breakfast room. 
After settling in, we ventured out to explore Sharon. We began by visiting a nearby candy shop, intrigued by its mid-century modern flair.
mid-century modern
Daffin's Candies was established in 1903.

sign

I learned that Daffin's candies is a local favorite and that the original family store opened in 1903 in Woodsfield, Ohio. Today's 20,000 square-foot store in Sharon now serves as their flagship location. Daffin's makes more than one million pounds of chocolate annually and sells approximately 600 different candy creations, including their Caramel Pecanettes, which are followed by the Melt-A-Ways and the Cordial Cherries in popularity.   
Daffin's in Sharon is also known for its "Chocolate Kingdom," which includes a 400-pound turtle, a 125-pound chocolate reindeer and a 75-pound chocolate frog. The store carries a selection of cards and unique gifts, as well.
chocolate
Daffin's Chocolate Kingdom
Daffin's is within walking distance of the Buhl Mansion, but if you care to explore downtown, it's but a two-minute drive away. There you'll find a variety of stores selling everything from shoes, to jewelry, home goods, furniture and apparel. 
flag
The town of Sharon is known for proudly displaying its patriotism all year round and flags are seemingly everywhere. The one in the above picture welcomes visitors to the area. 
monument
A Monument to Iwo Jima.
Our first retail stop was driven by curiosity. Reyer's Shoe Store purports to be "America's largest shoe store." I can't verify that claim, but I can attest to the fact that they have a nice selection of shoes in many different styles and sizes. They also feature clothing, costume jewelry and accessories as well.  The real surprise, however, was when I learned that employees are on standby to help not only with selections, but sizes as well. They actually measure customers' feet, just like in the "old days." 
store
The sales floor at Reyer's Shoe Store
That "mid-century" theme was repeated throughout the town as we made our way through the stores and streets of downtown Sharon. 
art
"It's a Wonderful World" sculpture was made possible by a partnership with artist Alexandra Knight, the city of Sharon and the local school district. 
diner
Donna's Diner has a 1950's malt shop feel. 
diner
furniture store
Laskey's Furniture building with its 1950s-era facade.

I especially enjoyed browsing among the clothing at "The Winner," which reminded me of the department stores of yore where the focus on service was paramount. The 75,000 square foot store features ladies fashions and accessories. I read that Jim and his wife Donna designed it so that it would be an affordable women's wear outlet, but with a more upscale atmosphere like that of a Nordstrom, or Saks. It isn't often that you see a piano and chandeliers in a department store these days. If you visit, be sure to take the elevator to floors two and three to view even more merchandise.  Plenty of saleswomen will greet you as you browse. I took advantage of their keen eye for a bit of feedback on my would-be purchases.
department store
The Winner department store.


store
The elegant interior modeled after Nordstrom and Saks.

Of course I couldn't leave without buying something. I ended up with this snazzy coat and the icing on the cake was that "The Winner" offers veterans a 20 percent discount, so my husband got a break on the price. Jim Winner was a proud veteran, which leads me to another fun fact. He was also the inventor of the anti-theft device known as "The Club," with sales that exceed 30 million units. Winner came up with the idea after his own car was stolen. Like I've said before, Sharon is full of surprises. 
coat
A Samuel Dong coat I purchased at "The Winner." 

Speaking of surprises, never before have I seen a men's lounge in a department store. Is this another nod to a bygone era? Was this a standard feature in department stores of the past? Maybe someone out there can enlighten me because I really have no idea. Nonetheless, I think every store should have one.

lounge
A men's waiting room, complete with television and newspapers so women can get their shop on unimpeded.

A Trip Back in Time to the 1800's


Inn
The front of Tara--A Country Inn

Inn
Tara--view from the side
Another highlight of our trip to Sharon was a visit to Tara-A Country Inn, in nearby Clark, Pennsylvania. The Winners called it "a deal of a lifetime" when they purchased the 1854 property at auction. After two years of extensive renovations, the inn opened to the public in 1986. Today it features 27 guest rooms and several restaurants, including "Stonewall's Tavern" where we enjoyed a cozy dinner.
tavern
Stonewall's Tavern won a "Wine Spectator Award" for having one of the most outstanding restaurant wine lists in the world. 

tavern
Stonewall's Tavern is located on Tara's lower level.

tavern

tavern

bar
Stonewall's Tavern bar
Antiques and "Gone with the Wind" memorabilia were tucked into every nook and cranny, which made the Inn a great place to explore and best of all, no one seemed to mind as I snapped picture after picture.
sideboard
One of the many antiques at Tara.
piano
A long hallways leading to accommodations.
parlour
Sitting areas at Tara.
tiffany
In keeping (Innkeeping?) with the theme of "Tara," rooms are given names reminiscent of the classic movie like "Rhett's Room,""Belle's Boudoir", "General Robert E. Lee's Room" and so forth.
I noticed that some were open and unoccupied, so I took the opportunity to snap a few shots.
room

room

room
I have to say that Sharon, Pennsylvania might not be the richest area in terms of money, but it more than makes up for that with its quaint charm. And along the way I learned a little more about the history of the area and a couple by the name of Jim and Donna Winner. Thanks to the invention of the "Club," they were able to save historic landmarks and put their unique spin on them while giving back to their community, not unlike philanthropist and businessman Frank H. Buhl, who would no doubt be proud. 




Small Town Fun from Shepherdstown to Boonsboro

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Saturdays are made for exploring and I try to do that as much as I can, schedule and weather permitting. Luckily, I live within a two-hour drive of many interesting destinations, so there are still some "new-to-me" areas I've yet to visit that require relatively little time spent on the road traveling.

Shepherdstown made its way onto my radar when I was flipping through television channels and was intrigued by a show titled, "The Ghosts of Shepherdstown." It occurred to me that I'd never been to that particular area of West Virginia, so my husband and I executed a plan to find out what the buzz was all about.

One thing I especially dislike about winter is that many destinations are closed for the season, so options are somewhat limited. For that reason, we planned a short, overnight stay, with the intention of returning at a later date when more attractions (like the Historic Shepherdstown and Museum) are open.

As we browsed nearby accommodations, we learned about a Bed and Breakfast in nearby Sharpsburg, MD and as luck would have it, we were able to secure a last-minute reservation. The Jacob Rohrbach Inn dates back to the year 1804 and has a rich history. You can read more about the structure and those who once called it home by visiting the website here
Inn
Our room at the Jacob Rohrbach Inn.
When speaking with the proprietors, we broached the subject of the town's paranormal reputation, but it was soon obvious that they really weren't all that interested, choosing instead to focus on the history of the area. After all, the Battle of Antietam, also known as the Battle of Sharpsburg, took place only a mile or two away, with some fighting occurring in the town itself. The historic confrontation  became known as the bloodiest, single-day battle in American history, with a combined tally of 22,717 dead, wounded, or missing.

History buffs have been known to spend many hours at the nearby battlefield. Grounds are open for touring from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. seven days a week, year round. The National Park Service provides helpful information on planning a visit via their website. Details are available here.

Dining at the Bavarian Inn
A light snow began to fall as we made our way to the alpine-style Bavarian Inn's Hunt Room for lunch. The cozy restaurant, which features roaring fireplaces and antlered chandeliers, was an ideal respite from the frigid weather.

Perched on a scenic bluff overlooking the Potomac River, the AAA Four-Diamond property is comprised of 72 rooms situated on 11 acres. Additional options include casual dining in the Rathskeller, or more formal dining in the Potomac Room overlooking the grounds.
The grounds at the Bavarian Inn.

Dining at the Hunt Room at The Bavarian Inn.

The Bavarian Inn's Hunt Room decorated for Christmas



Stepping Back in Time at O'Hurleys General Store
After lunch, we decided to drop by the Shepherdstown Visitor's Center on Princess Street to pick up a few brochures. While there, an ambassador recommended a trip to O'Hurley's General Store. When we pulled up to the inauspicious building, we couldn't help but wonder what we had gotten ourselves into, but it turned out to be a very charming experience. A wood-burning stove keeps the place warm and cozy and a big, furry feline oversees operations.

Visitors can choose from a array of merchandise, from books, to tools, to jams, jellies, hats and hardware, some of which I understand dates back to the early 1900s. You can visit their website to see all they offer here, but you may end up scratching your head like I did when you see coffins among the items listed. I'll admit I didn't spot any of those while touring the rooms full of merchandise, but then again maybe I overlooked them since I'm not quite old enough to be in the market for one just yet. Nonetheless, I'll keep the place in mind for later consideration. Maybe I'll get a good deal.
Come and get yer coffins here at O'Hurley's General Store. 
The owner of O'Hurley's poses for a photo.

Goods sold at O'Hurley's

O'Hurley's General Store decorated for the Christmas season. 

This sign spoke to me--perhaps I was possessed.
The kindly old owner posed for a picture for me and handed me a brochure. "That's me, in the same place, just 30 years earlier," he said, with a chuckle.

A Stroll through Downtown Shepherdstown
After our visit to the General Store, we headed to the heart of downtown where several blocks of shops offered a variety of merchandise from jewelry, to antiques, wine, crafts and clothing.
Four Seasons Books is a family owned bookstore dating back to 1991.

A helpful employee at Grapes and Grain Gourmet assisted us with a wine purchase.

Creative Procrastinations claims to have "a little of everything."
Some of the downtown structures are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Of all the buildings located downtown, I believe the one below was my favorite. Built in the Beaux Arts style, it was constructed in 1906 and once served as a bank. I was disappointed to see that the restaurant that operated there recently went out of business; hopefully someone with a vision will fall in love with it and purchase it soon.

The Yellow Brick Bank Building.
This following building is listed as belonging to actress Mary Tyler Moore, who is known for purchasing old structures that once belonged to her family. When we visited Winchester, we learned that she bought Stonewall Jackson's headquarters, because it once served as her ancestral home.
The George Tyler Moore Center for the Study of the Civil War, Shepherd University.


McMurran Hall
Located on the corner of NE German and King Streets is a Greek Revival structure erected in 1859 by Rezin Davis Shepherd. Its initial purpose was to serve as a town hall. After the Civil War it operated as a county courthouse and by 1872 it became part of a teacher's college known as "Shepherd University."

Another stop on the walking tour is the Entler Hotel and Shepherdstown Museum located at the Northwest corner of German and Princess Streets. The structure operated as a hotel in 1809 and in later years served as a dormitory for students, WWII Navy and Air Force cadets and college faculty. Today it operates as a museum from April through October.
The Entler Hotel is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
During our walk, we took a break to indulge in a libation at Bistro 112. The building was originally constructed in the 1830's as a haberdashery and cigar shop with the residence upstairs. Today the charming boite attracts customers from miles around for its outstanding French cuisine.
Bistro 112 is located at 112 W. German Street in Shepherdstown

Inside Bistro 112
Further down the road is another popular restaurant known as "The Press Room." The Press Room was once the base of operations for The Independent, anewspaper which operated from the 1900s to the 1970s. Today it operates as an eatery, offering a selection of soups, salads, grilled seafood, meats and pasta.

The Press Room
Next door to The Press Room is the Opera House. The current structure was built in 1909, replacing a 100-year-old building. Moving pictures were shown here through 1956. Approximately 35 years later, after extensive renovations, it reopened as a movie theater. These days it serves as a venue for film and live music.

Another building of note on the walking tour is the old "poorhouse" which tended to the elderly and poverty stricken. Dating back to 1805, the poorhouse started out as a log cabin before being enlarged and upgraded with wooden siding. Iron rings in the attic rafters cause some to speculate that residents may have been restrained.
"The Poorhouse" where kids of a certain vintage were accused of "putting" their parents.
These are just a few highlights along the Shepherdstown Walking Tour. If you're interested in taking the self-guided tour yourself, you can download a more comprehensive listing of all the historic structures here.

Dinner at an Old Inn

For dinner, we headed to Old South Mountain Inn in nearby Boonsboro. People come from miles around to visit the historic restaurant. On the night we visited, the extremely large parking lot was packed, making finding a spot rather difficult. Thankfully, there were only a few people waiting in line inside and we were seated in just a few minutes.
The exterior of the popular Old South Mountain Inn
Interior of the Old South Mountain Inn

Bar area of the Old South Mountain Inn where patrons can wait for their table while enjoying a libation.
Located atop historic Turner's Gap, the Old South Mountain Inn is said to date back to 1732. Over the years, the Inn was visited by Henry Clay, Daniel Webster and several presidents. Its long history is detailed on the website here.

Boonsboro Antiques

Antique trunk spotted at Market Place Antiques in Boonsboro.
On the way home, we stopped at Market Place Antiques in Boonsboro where I spotted this cool, old trunk. What made it unique is the hinged lid, with a picture of whom I assume may once have been the owner. Unfortunately, my husband talked me out of spending the $100 they were asking for it. Take note the bonnet and heels were part of the deal--problem was, he wasn't buying. I suppose if I bought all of the old trunks I've been attracted to over the years, we'd have a hoarding problem, so I let it go. (Note: I have yet to buy a trunk.)

Trunk aside, the shop was a great place to browse, with scores of vendors under one roof and was a nice way to end our visit to the historic area.

And just in case your wondering, no, I didn't experience any paranormal activity. Oh well, there's always next time.

Stepping Back in Time to a 1700s-era Tavern in Bedford, Pa

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Old Tavern
Bedford's Jean Bonnet Tavern

I'm a fan of old taverns and, as such, the Jean Bonnet Tavern located in Bedford, Pennsylvania has held a bit of an allure for me, but it just never seemed convenient to make a special trip there until recently when we decided to visit Omni Bedford Springs resort (more to come on that in a future blog post.)

Many insist that the old tavern is haunted.  For me that adds to its appeal, but as usual, I can't attest to it firsthand. I can, however, provide this link to an interesting video shot by local paranormal investigators.

A Rich History

The exact age of the Jean Bonnet hasn't been quite pinned down. The earliest record on the property is a title transfer of 690 acres from the William Penn family to a land speculator by the name of Hans Ireland, who then transferred it to Indian trader Robert Callender in 1762. Callender was a commissary for troop supplies and later a scout for George Washington. Many of the features you'll see today like the tavern's stone walls, its impressive fireplaces and the chestnut beams were constructed while Callendar owned the property.

The structure, which served as a respite for settlers who made their way west in wooden wagons,  is located along the Lincoln Highway and Route 31. Early on, it served as an French fort and trading post. Old accounts by trappers and traders refer to the building as being on the way to the Old Shawnese Cabins, today known as Shawnee State Park. General John Forbes was said to have stopped at the tavern to await reinforcements before continuing westward in his quest to take Fort Duquesne from the French.

In 1779, Jean (John) Bonnet and his wife purchased the property and shortly thereafter was issued a license to keep a Public House. 

One of the most notable developments after the Revolutionary War was the imposition of a federal excise tax on whiskey, which enraged farmers. The "whiskey tax" was the first tax imposed on a domestic product in the United States and was part of Hamilton's plan to help pay down the national debt caused by Revolutionary War expenditures. The farmers, who would distill their surplus grain and corn into whiskey and sometimes use it in trade instead of money, met in the Jean Bonnet Tavern and raised a "liberty pole," which was a common form of protest during colonial days. 

pole
An example of a "liberty pole" posted on the John Bonnet website
from a Wikipedia image.
Painting by Johann Wolfgang von Goethe.  
George Washington lead a group of militiamen to help quell the rebellion and many of his troops camped at the John Bonnet on their way to Pittsburgh in 1794.

Over the years, the property changed hands many times and was also used as a private residence.

Dining at the Jean Bonnet
I suggest making reservations to dine at the Jean Bonnet Tavern. When we arrived during a weekday, the place was doing a brisk business, but I did manage to snap a few pictures surreptitiously, while trying not to disturb anyone. 
Tavern
The front seating room of the Jean Bonnet Tavern. 

tavern booth
One of the few seats that weren't yet taken when we visited. 

tavern

tavern
We found the low-lit atmosphere warm and inviting and if you've ever visited The Dobbin House in Gettysburg, it was reminiscent of the Springhouse Tavern. Menu items included a variety of soups, sandwiches and salads, with more substantial dinner offerings. You can view a menu here
menu
Mike perusing the lunch menu on Valentine's Day 2018. 

fireplace
One of the tavern's many fireplaces. 

tavern sign

fireplace
Another shot of a fireplace in the dining area. 
After we finished our lunch, I ventured upstairs to have a peek and was surprised to see another seating area and a rather large bar. Once again, I tried to be a bit sneaky while snapping a few pics, but this time I didn't quite succeed. As you can tell by the faces of the patrons in the pictures, they weren't very kindly disposed towards me, so the shot could be clearer, but I just found myself wanting to move on. Perhaps they were fugitives, or worse, they may have preferred to protect their identity. One item of note, however, is the impressive fireplace behind their glares
historic bar
Large bar upstairs where yet another fireplace is a focal point.
Unfortunately I didn't have the opportunity to see any of the Inn rooms, but you can have a looky look by clicking on this link here.
stairs
Stairs behind the bar lead to the rooms upstairs. 
On the way out, we stopped inside The Cabin Shop, which sold a selection of crafts made by local artisans, including candles, jewelry, accessories and home decor. 
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The Cabin Shop on the grounds of the Jean Bonnet Tavern features a variety of merchandise ideal for gift giving.
It might have been a cold, cloudy day when we visited the Jean Bonnet, but the atmosphere was both warm and welcoming and evidently others feel the same. TripAdvisorhas awarded the Tavern a Certificate of Excellence Award for its hospitality.

If you'd like to consider visiting, the tavern is open seven days a week from 11 a.m. to  9 p.m. Sunday through Thursday and from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. 


Omni Bedford Spring's Resort Stands the Test of Time

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The older I get, the more I enjoy history, which is not all that uncommon from what I am learning. I have to admit that I am rather late to the party when it comes to visiting the many interesting and unique properties that are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. To date, I haven't made much of a dent in that list since since Pennsylvania alone is home to more than 3,000 such structures. Nevertheless however, I am always excited to set eyes on a property that makes it on the list. Learning the backstory from those who carefully present a case for preservation is intriguing as well.

I visited the Omni Bedford Springs for the first time this Valentine's Day. Until then, I knew little about the property and its rich history, but soon learned more thanks to a knowledgeable guide who conducts group tours throughout the week. 
Omni Bedford Springs, view from the bridge.
Located in the Allegheny Mountains of south Pennsylvania, the Omni Bedford Springs is home to eight mineral springs which, for centuries, were used by Native Americans for drinking and bathing. The water, with its rich mineral content, was said to contain curative properties, which eventually caught the attention of a local doctor by the name of John Anderson. In 1796, Anderson purchased the 2,200-acre property on which the resort now stands. Anderson began building bathing facilities for his patients and offered them custom prescriptions based on their individual health issues, while housing them in tents during their stay.

As "taking the waters" grew in popularity, Anderson decided it was time to erect a structure to accommodate visitors. Aaron Burr, with grandson in tow, were among the first notable guests of the Bedford Springs Hotel. Many others would follow.

In 1816, Attorney James Buchanan visited the Springs for the first time, followed by Thomas Jefferson, who suffered from acute rheumatism. By 1842, the resort had earned luxury status. Frequent guests included Presidents Andrew Jackson, William Henry Harrison, James K. Polk and Zachary Taylor. Other dignitaries included Daniel Webster, Henry Clay and John C. Calhoun. As the hotel gained a reputation as a retreat for the elite, it attracted top businessmen and industrialists, including such luminaries as Henry Ford and John Wanamaker, who maintained a suite on the first floor. Buchanan famously used the resort as his "Summer White House" from 1857-1861 and received the first transatlantic cable from England's Queen Victoria while staying at the Bedford Springs Hotel in the summer of 1858. 

The Bedford Springs Hotel also laid claim to other "firsts," including one of the first golf courses. Designed by Spencer Oldham in 1895, the course at Bedford Springs is one of the oldest in the United States. In 1905, the resort also installed the first spring-fed, Olympic-sized indoor pool in the nation.

The hotel's heyday lasted approximately two decades--from 1900 through 1920. During the 1920s,  its popularity began to wane as the country suffered the economic impact of The Great Depression, followed by World War II. In the mid-1940s, the hotel experienced an uptick in business thanks to the construction of the Pennsylvania Turnpike and the subsequent popularity of hotel tourism, which was fortuitously followed by a post-war economic stimulus. 

In 1984, the hotel was added to the National Register of Historic Places as one of the best remaining examples of "Springs Resort Architecture." Two years later the property ended what was a good run in the hospitality industry. This, of course, dismayed the citizens of Bedford, who held out little hope that their crown jewel would ever return. It wasn't until 2004 that the property would undergo a rebirth due to the efforts of a development company that specialized in historic renovation. The three-year, $120 million project was completed in 2007 and was purchased by Omni Hotels and Resorts in 2009.  Today it stands as a mixture of old and new. To wit, a rare, 39-star United States flag dates back to 1865 and hangs behind the modern front desk. Historians may question the date so it's important to note that although only 36 states were in existence at the time, the creator, in a spate of optimism, added an additional three, making the acquisition a rare, one-of-a-kind specimen.

The lobby of the Omni Bedford Springs.
Cozy.

Plenty of Activities
Packing a bathing suit for a dip in the heated indoor pool is a must and guests who gaze upwards will see an elevated opera box where musicians once serenaded swimmers back in the days of yore.
Those hankering for a little pampering will find plenty of opportunities at the 30,000 square foot "Springs Eternal Spa." The spa at the Omni is just one of just a few in the country to use natural spring water for treatments. The "menu" includes an array of services ranging from body scrubs, manicures, pedicures, massages, facials and even reiki. The popular destination is usually booked for weeks on end, so visitors are encouraged to call ahead. Staff recommends six-to-eight-week's advance notification.
Products solds at the "Hope Springs Eternal" spa.
For guests who enjoy the great outdoors, Omni offers a variety of activities like fly fishing, trap shooting, off-road vehicle tours, hiking trails, lawn games, horseback riding, tennis and segway tours beginning on April 1.

A Focus on Dining
The Omni Bedford Springs is known for its quality culinary program and many take advantage of the opportunity to watch chef demonstrations held at 11 a.m. and 3 p.m. on Friday and Saturday.

During our stay, we enjoyed a delicious dinner of sea bass and steak in the formal Crystal Room where chandeliers are a focal point and pictures of guests from a bygone era adorn the walls.
The Crystal Room


Sea bass over wild rice served in the Crystal Room.

Steak with carrots over polenta and pesto served in the Crystal Room.

A lovely Valentine's Day dessert served with a rum "injection."

One afternoon we made it a point to grab a drink at the Frontier Tavern and settle into the oversized comfy chairs to enjoy the view overlooking the front of the property. Directly outside is a fire pit that  is pulled into commission during warm summer evenings for toasting s'mores.

Additional dining is available in the 1796 room named for the year when Dr. John Anderson purchased the property. Known for its USDA 21-day-aged prime beef and world-class wine list, the 1796 Room is a less formal alternative to the Crystal Room known for its historic atmosphere in an older part of the building.
An antique stove is on display at the front of the Frontier Tavern.
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An antique tapestry hangs on the walls of the 1796 room. 
Our tour guide describing the 1796 room as one of the oldest rooms on the property.
Boutique Shopping
Shops line the hall of the first floor.

An array of merchandise ranging from gifts, to books, logo items, clothing and accessories can be found in the shops that line the first floor. And since the Omni Bedford Springs is home to one of the top 100 golf courses in the nation, it stands to reason that they'd offer golfers the opportunity to choose from a variety of accessories and attire at the onsite pro shop. According to the tour guide, panes of glass were salvaged from the original property, so be sure to linger a bit in the "Duke of Bedford" library, where, if you look closely, you'll see names etched into the windows by various guests over the years. Called "the truing of the ring," newly married visitors would etch their names into the glass to test the authenticity of their diamond rings.

Visiting the Springs
Crossing the bridge to the springs.
View from the Bridge.
The Iron Springs and Wedding Grotto.
Of the eight springs on the property, three are capped: the Sweet Spring, the Sulphur Spring and the Crystal Spring. The Sweet Spring  was used by the early hotel for cooking and washing and is marked by a lion's head sculpture. The Sulphur Spring, formerly known as the Yellow Spring, was used to treat moderate bleeding, constipation and chronic diseases. The Crystal Spring, located south of the resort, was once compared to the "Carlsbad of Europe." Part of a mammoth was discovered nearby during an excavation.

Non-capped springs include the Magnesia Spring, the Limestone Spring, the Black Spring, the Iron Spring and the Eternal Spring.

The Magnesia Spring, located behind the wedding grotto, was demonstrated to have many curative properties and was used to treat liver disease, malaria and stomach and kidney disease. 
The Black Spring is said to contain the most potable water and is responsible for the irrigation of the golf course.

The effervescent Iron Spring contains iron and common salts and was used for blood and bone disorders.

The Eternal Spring was discovered beneath the hotel during the most recent renovation. It feeds the indoor pool and the on-site spa. Consult your concierge for directions to these natural wonders.

One courtesy that the Omni generously offers non-guests is the opportunity to explore the springs on the property. Guests are also encouraged to take advantage of any scheduled tours and are welcome to visit the restaurants on site as well.

Exploring Bedford 

After our stay at the Omni, we decided to explore Bedford's quaint downtown. One of our stops was at Bedford Candies. The small business located at 132 East Pitt Street has been making handmade, hand-dipped chocolates since 1929. The bright and cheery store was operated by the Sotirokos family for three generations before employee Tammy Wiley assumed ownership. She continues the daily tradition of making products onsite using old family recipes.
Bedford Candies was founded in 1929.
Bedford Candies sales floor.
Another Bedford shop worthy of a visit is Founder's Crossing Artisan and Antique Merchant  located on the corner of Juliana Street. The historic building was built in the 1890s in the Italianate style, originally serving as Oppenheimer's Clothing Store. Later it became home to a G. C. Murphy's--as evidenced by the stoop leading to the front entrance. Inside, you'll find an array of merchandise, from gifts, to home decor, crafts, antiques and collectibles. If you have some time to spare, you can easily wile away an hour inspecting all the unique items for sale.
Founder's Crossing Artisan and Antique Merchant--look closely at the steps and you'll see evidence of the old G.C. Murphy's.
Founder's Crossing offers two floors of crafts, antiques and sundries.
This shotgun shell flag gave me a chuckle.
G.C. Murphy's Lunch Counter.
I would have loved to have taken the free guided walking tour of Bedford, but it was too early in the year when we visited. Tours last 90 minutes and are conducted every Friday at 3:30 p.m.. starting in June. 
A mural of a young George Washington
As we poked around the town, I snapped a picture of this attractive house and later learned that it was owned by Dr. John Anderson--the individual mentioned earlier who was responsible for founding the resort in  Bedford Springs. Built in 1815, it is characteristic of the Federalist style. Federalist homes often featured American symbols and Dr. Anderson's house was no exception. If you look closely at the front door, you'll get a glimpse of American eagle partially obscured by the wrought iron railing.

The Anderson House

Before we left the area, we ducked into another Anderson building. The Golden Eagle Inn was built in 1794 and was known as The Anderson Mansion. It is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and is known as one of  the oldest buildings downtown.We enjoyed a wonderful lunch at the downstairs pub before proceeding home. In retrospect, I wish I had ventured upstairs to take a few shots of the interior of the old hotel. Unfortunately all I can share here is a not-so-stellar picture of the outside and the downstairs pub, but if you follow the link, you can get a little better idea of what lies beyond.
The front of the Golden Eagle Inn, once known as the Anderson Mansion.
We enjoyed a delicious lunch of Korean chicken and a Reuben at the pub downstairs.
When we wrapped up our short visit, I was fairly confident that we had seen much of what Bedford had to offer, although I wouldn't mind returning to the interior of the Golden Eagle Inn and taking the walking tour I mentioned. If you're looking for a unique way to spend a long weekend, Bedford offers much to explore. 

A Tour of the Beautiful Hershey Theatre

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Hershey Premiere Program (courtesy of the Hershey archives)

I happen to have the good fortune of living within just a few miles of Hershey, Pennsylvania, a small town made famous by that sweet treat that nearly everyone craves and where street lights are shaped like Hershey kisses.

During the summer, the town comes alive with families seeking to spend a fun-filled day at Hersheypark. Adult-oriented attractions include the Antique Auto Museum Club of America, which I've written about earlier for this blog, The Hershey Story , which celebrates the history of the town and its founder Milton Hershey, Hershey Gardens, (the subject of a future blog post) and the beautiful Hershey Theatre, to name just a few.

Despite attending many performances at the theatre, I'd never seen the place up close and personal absent a crush of people, that is until a few weeks ago when docent Terri Dorwart shined a light on little details and told the story of how the theatre came into existence. During the one-hour tour, I learned quite a bit about the beautiful building that has seen its fair share of stars over the years.

It's impossible to talk about the Hershey Theatre, however, without mentioning the man responsible. During the tour, I learned a few facts about the hard-working entrepreneur by the name of Milton Hershey, who conceived of the structure as a community treasure. It's hard to believe that the opulent and elegant building sprung from the mind of a man born into the Mennonite faith. Milton's mother, Veronica Snavely, just happened to be a clergyman's daughter, to boot. Despite this, "Fannie," as she was known, fell in love with Henry Hershey, a man whom many kindly refer to as a "dreamer." Henry never seemed content to stay in one place for very long. One story tells of him hauling the family to Titusville, Pennsylvania in 1860 to take advantage of the short-lived (yet fascinating) oil boom. When this venture failed, he returned to Lancaster County and bought a farm described by some as "rundown." He soon took off on the road and for all intents and purposes, the couple was separated. Throughout his life, Henry seemed to follow this pattern of coming and going as he pleased, often appearing back on the scene here and there to capitalize on Milton's success, and to work for him at times. This didn't seem to bother Milton much and when the old man died, Milton mourned his passing.

Milton was permitted to drop out of school at age 13, a surprising fact, given Fannie's penchant for discipline. Young Milton's first foray into the big world was when he took a job as a printer's apprentice. Not surprisingly, he struck out. His mother encouraged him to seek a different path in life, suggesting that he make something tangible and in demand. This inspired Milton to pursue a career in candy making and he began working under the tutelage of master confectioner Joseph Royer. 

Hershey eventually used his newfound knowledge to set up his own caramel making shop in Philadelphia, working long hours and struggling to make ends meet. Hershey had what many refer to as "stick-to-it-ive-ness." Each time his future would appear grim, he'd manage to show enough pluck to extricate himself from financial failure. Things finally took a turn for the better after a fortuitous trip to The Great Columbian Exhibition in Chicago. When he laid eyes on a chocolate-making machine from Germany, he saw his future and it included bringing chocolate to the masses. He arranged to have the operation disassembled and brought to Lancaster. "Caramels are a fad, but chocolate is permanent," Hershey was said to have uttered. The Biography Channel uncovers more information on the successful entrepreneur and philanthropist.

Thumbing his Nose at The Great Depression
Milton Hershey's grit and dogged determination played a huge role in his success.When the businessman began making money, he decided to create his own community, offering workers housing and gainful employment. It's been said that residents of Hershey suffered less than most other communities during The Great Depression, thanks to Milton S. Hershey, who was known to most often choose men over machines.

A Community Hub 
The Hotel Hershey, the Hersheypark Arena and the Hersheypark Stadium. The flurry of activity was especially remarkable since it all took place during an otherwise grim time known as The Great Depression.


The Grand Lobby

From the minute guests walk through the door of the Grand Lobby, they are enchanted by old world elegance, from the floor, which is laid with polished Italian lava rock, to the walls crafted of four different types of marble, both imported and domestic.
lobby
The Grand Lobby


lobby


Lobby
ceiling
Ornate ceilings are a focal point 
Theatregoers will miss much should they fail to "look up" to behold the beautifully crafted ceilings filled with bas-relief images of sheaves of wheat, swans and pastoral scenes. Apollo, the patron god of music, poetry and the arts is shown in his horse-drawn chariot.
Apollo


ceiling
art



The inner foyer's "canopy of gold" arched tile ceiling is indeed a stunner and reportedly took two German artisans two years to create. Pictures really don't do it justice.


mosaic
Canopy of gold arched tile ceiling took two German artisans two years to create.
mosaic
window
A beautiful stained glass window located on the second floor.

Inside the Auditorium



theatre


Zooming in on the Lion on the Main Stage.

The sides of the auditorium appear to be modeled to resemble the outer walls of a Byzantine castle, with walls of  pink granite and faux balconies on windowed towers. Unfortunately, I didn't have the opportunity to view the theatre's six-ton fire curtain displaying a water color of the city of Venice. 

Special Features


Other features of the theatre include 44 counter-weight lines for sets and lights and a four-manual, 78-rank Aeolian-Skinner concert organ commissioned by Milton Hershey. The organ's 4,715 pipes and 25 bells are concealed behind the French doors of the front balconies.


stage
My niece prepares for her future stage career.
stage
Behind the scenes.
As we wrapped up the tour, I learned with some excitement, that we would be viewing the dressing rooms, where many luminaries once prepared to take the stage. I'm always a bit surprised at how humble most dressing room accommodations are. I learned this decades earlier on when I visited the "Green Room" of Regis and (at the time) Kathy Lee. The space featured a lone card table, stale donuts and a sagging couch. As the "Fresh Prince of Bel Air's" butler geared up for an interview, he struggled to extricate himself from the well-worn piece of furniture. I recall him being a large man and the not-yet-so-large Will Smith grabbed his hand in an effort to pull the struggling actor to his feet.

The dressing rooms in the Hershey Theatre didn't disappoint and I couldn't help but think of all the celebs who spent time in the unassuming areas tucked away in corners beyond the stage.


dressing room
Unassuming spaces where actors prepare to take the stage.

dressing room
Dressing room at the Hershey Theatre.

This is just a small taste of what it's like to tour the historic theatre. Tours are held every Friday at 11 a.m. year round, or on Sundays at 1 p.m. starting Memorial Day weekend and continuing through Labor Day. To make arrangements for your own personal tour, call 717-533-6299.

Not-So-Hidden Gems in Historic Lewisburg

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B&B
Copper Beech Manor
The upside of living in Central Pennsylvania is that it's within driving distance of so many destinations. The downside is that the winters sometimes seem interminable, which leaves a six-month window to sightsee, unless you feel like contending with Mother Nature pitching a fit and stomping all over the best-laid plans. It doesn't help that most museums and other attractions are open from May through October. When you factor in the weekly obligations that often take precedence over wayfaring, you start to realize just how precious those free weekends are.  This past Saturday I was able to find time to visit the Lewisburg area. I had to return home Sunday morning for a graduation party, so I fit in everything I could during my short, but substantive stay.

What first attracted me to the small town was the annual icefest held in February--a delightful celebration intended to boost business and at the same time nudge us over that winter-doldrum hump. You can read more about it here in an article written by my friend Tricia Kline. When I laid eyes on the cute shops, elegant B&Bs, attractive neighborhoods and diverse restaurants, I knew a return visit was in order. I scheduled my visit during Memorial Day weekend, when I knew the town wouldn't be quite so busy. Students had graduated the week before and fighting the crowds wasn't an issue this time.

First Stop--An Historic Hotel
Inn
The Lewisburg Hotel is located in downtown Lewisburg at the corner of Market and Second Streets
The Lewisburg Hotel, once known as the Kline's Hotel, has the distinction of being the longest-lived hotel in the area. Dating back to 1834, its proximity to the Pennsylvania Canal, the Old East-West Turnpike and two major railroads, made it a convenient stop for generations of travelers. By 1992, the weathered mainstay was feeling its age. It was clear to observers that the well-worn destination with the good bones was overdue for a renovation, so in stepped Norman and Nancy Buck to help bring it back to its former glory. In 1997, the hotel reopened and today is owned and operated by Dale Walize, who has been with the hotel for many years. Walize took over operations in November, after Norm's sudden passing.

Walize knew Norm well and said that part of his vision was to bring the historic hotel back to the way it appeared in the days of yore. Walking into the lobby is like stepping back in time when craftsman used woodwork as an eye-catching focal point. Guests can't help but be impressed with the attractive coffered ceilings, the original check-in desk and the tall wooden phone booth that is situated in the corner and an oft-discussed conversation piece.  

As for the elevator--I've decided against spoiling the surprise. Let's just say that the Lewisburg Hotel put the elegance in elevator. If you visit, be sure to check it out.

Over the years, the hotel has seen its share of august dignitaries. In addition to being home to the first president of The Victorian University of Lewisburg, (later known as Bucknell), every Pennsylvania governor from 1831-1901 was said to have been a guest at one time or another (and not always in August).
room
Views of the room decor in the Lewisburg Hotel

hotel room


Today the business serves the community as a meeting place, hotel, motel and bar. Guests can choose from casual dining in the Cameron Bar, or fine dining with a side of Victorian ambiance in the Governor's room located on the first floor.
hotel lobby
Take a peak behind the elevator doors when you visit.
patio

The patio outside features live music during the warmer months and Tuesday's "Grillin' and Chillin' on the Patio" is an area favorite.

Before you leave the building, be sure to take a look across the street where you'll see another handsome, old structure by the name of the Lewisburg Club.
Pennsylvania club
The Lewisburg Club--a community hub

The Lewisburg Club started out as a simple, brick residence built sometime between 1800 and 1814. The building was later sold to Rebecca and Joseph Nesbit who are responsible for transforming it into the beautiful brownstone you see in the picture, done in the Richardsonian Romanesque style. In 1911, the couple sold it to the Lewisburg Club, which continues to use it for community activities.

A Stately, Comfortable Bed and Breakfast 
Our second stop was to check in at the beautiful Copper Beech Manor, named for a Rohan Copper Beech tree located at the rear of the property known to be approximately 125 years old.

Owners Linda and Bill Petry lovingly care for the Federal Style Manor, which dates back to 1857 and was built by Jonathan Nesbit, who also built the First Presbyterian church (located across the street) and Christ's Lutheran church, located on Third Street. In 1861, Nesbit built an addition on the house and according to local lore, a hidden room on the third floor sheltered slaves on their way to freedom on the Underground Railroad.
stairway
View from the second floor

breakfast room
Breakfast room

parlor
Parlor

sitting room
Sitting room
The home has four, original working fireplaces that have been converted to gas and four large, first-floor public rooms. Breakfast is served every morning.
fruit
Breakfast fruit
A beautiful, winding staircase leads guests to five, comfortable guest rooms located on the second floor. Our cheery room was not only comfortable, but quiet and conducive to a good night's sleep. Bill and Linda spent many hours renovating the house and they recount the story of their journey in a book they've made available to guests, so be on the lookout for that as well. The hospitable couple are warm, welcoming and eager to assist visitors in making the most of their visit to Lewisburg.
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The 1857 room, named for the year the home Copper Beech Manor was built
At the end of the evening, many guests take the opportunity to relax in a lovely sitting area in view of a Koi pond to enjoy the tranquil surroundings.
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The Koi pond located in the rear of Copper Beech Manor

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Patio at Copper Beech Manor


koi pond

 Visiting a Neighborhood Jewel



theatre
The Campus Theatre marquee
Art Deco became all the rage just before World War I. Representing glamour and modernism, it influenced the design of everything from architecture to fashion and furniture. The Campus Theatre, which debuted in 1941, was done in the popular style that began to wane with the onset of WWII. Shortly after the Campus Theatre was designed, it could be said that the once-popular style was falling out of fashion. Today the theatre is appreciated and treasured as one of the few remaining art-deco movie houses in the country.
theatre
Courtesy of the Campus Theatre

Art-Deco
Courtesy of the Campus Theatre
art-deco
Courtesy of the Campus Theatre
art-deco
Entrance to the Campus Theatre

Situated at 413 Market Street, the Campus Theatre was designed by Philadelphia architect David Supowitz and built by a Russian immigrant by the name of Oscar Stiefel. Oscar opened his first movie theatre in Philadelphia and soon business was booming, so he enlisted his brothers Harold, Barney and Morris to lend a hand. The Stiefel brothers would eventually operate 11 theatres in Pennsylvania. Those closer to South Central Pennsylvania may be interested to learn that Steifel owned The Roxy in Ephrata, which was destroyed by fire in 1955. 

In 1953, Morris' son Harold Stiefel took over the Lewisburg theatre and managed it with his wife Jacquie until he passed in 1988. The couple was dedicated to the Lewisburg community and are greatly missed. Many of their outreach programs exist to this day. In 2001, the Campus Theatre transitioned into a non-profit organization and in 2004 underwent a major restoration. "The Jewel of Market Street" partnered with nearby Bucknell University in 2011, when the college assumed ownership of the building. Both entities are dedicated to preserving and promoting this historic landmark. 

Free family films are shown every Tuesday during the summer and on Saturday the BYOB night draws quite the crowd. To learn more about what's playing and when, click on the monthly schedule here.

Shops Galore
jeweler
Marc Williams Goldsmith has been creating handcrafted jewelry for more than 35 years.
There's no dearth of shopping opportunities in Lewisburg, from ladies fashions and accessories, to antiques and more. Some old mainstays are housed in buildings with mid-century modern charm (like the one above), while others tout more contemporary storefronts and cater to the college crowd offering a selection of the latest styles and apparel.
shop
One of the many women's shops in downtown Lewisburg

"The Famous Street of Shops" at 100 North Water Street is a favorite of shoppers both near and far.  Once used as a woolen mill, it now touts 375 shops and a lower-level flea market. A restaurant located on the main floor offers customers the opportunity to grab a bite in between browsing.
shop
Scenes from the House of Retro in the Street of Shops
shop


Not far away from the Street of Shops is the "Roller Mills Marketplace" located at 517 Saint Mary Street. Roller Mills dates back to 1883 and was originally constructed as a flour mill, with product that was sold under the brand name "Oriole." For the past 20 years, customers have been rising to the occasion to visit the business which spans three floors and 60,000 square feet.




The Street of Shops touts 375 shops in a restored, historic woolen mill


Another shot inside the Street of Shops



lighter
Just one of the many unique items you'll find in Lewisburg--this was spotted at the Roller Mills
This little beauty will cost you $2800. Keep an eye out for my story in June 2018 issue in theburgnews.com and see what happened to a few Harrisburg horses.

Cuddle a Cat if You Please

Heck, you can even shop for a cat in downtown Lewisburg. If I hadn't just adopted my second terrorist, err, kitten, I'd likely be heading home with one of these little cuties. Whether you're in the market, or not, for $5 an hour, the Scratching Post Cafe permits people to cuddle and play to their hearts content and perhaps find it in that heart to adopt one of these furry felines.

And talk about coincidences--one of the very sweet and helpful staff members shares a name with me--her first name is Kalina, which is my maiden name. She informed me that the rather chubby girl in the last picture below has a reputation as being a bit of a treat hog.
cats
Play all day at the cat cafe

cat
This one reminds me of Frankie
cat
The guardian of the treat galaxy
A Delicious Dinner at Brasserie Louis
Did I mention that we managed to see a lot in one afternoon? By now it was time for dinner at Brasserie Louis, which, at 101 Market Street, was just a short walk from our B&B. 
cafe
Brasserie Louis--exterior

restaurant
Brasserie Louis--interior

salad
A delicious salad was the prelude to a wonderful selection of small plates at Brasserie Louis.

Once again, we found ourselves admiring the old woodwork in yet another historic building. Brasserie Louis dates back to 1825 and once served as The Lewisburg Inn. It was the home of James Fleming Linn, whose two sons were authors and historians. The house was equipped with a water tank stored in the attic, which supplied the first running water in a home in Lewisburg.


Today it serves the community as an attractive restaurant and tavern that features not only delicious food, but inventive libations. After dinner, consider relaxing with a Vesper (gin, vodka, lillet) in the inviting bar area (featuring more stunning woodwork). Chances are you'll have the opportunity to enjoy the talented vocals of local resident Billy Kelly.

Street Views
Before I wrap up this blog post, I will leave you with a few street views. I hope to publish a later post on a "Walking Tour of Lewisburg," with additional pictures and a few details on each building. Enjoy.
house



house

covered bridge
police station
Can you believe this is a police station? Neither could I.
magazine
Susquehanna Life Magazine--where my articles sometimes appear
offices
Bucknell University offices

Ephrata Cloister Tells Tale of One of America's Earliest Religious Communities

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house
The Ephrata Cloister

The small borough of Ephrata located in northern Lancaster County is home to one of America's earliest religious communities known as the Ephrata Cloister.

This carefully preserved gem, founded in 1732 by German settlers led by a man by the name of Conrad Beissel, tells a tale of Pennsylvania's role in the quest for freedom of religion.

Beissel, who was born in Eberbach, Germany, took issue with his country's state-run churches, believing, instead, that citizens should be free to worship as they pleased. When he set sail for North America, he decided to settle in the only colony at the time to offer freedom of religion. By choosing Pennsylvania, Beissel had shaken the shackles of his native country's demands for obeisance to the religion of the rulers.

After arriving in the colonies, Beissel initially settled in Germantown before moving to Lancaster County, where he led a Brethren congregation. His quest for inner peace and his desire to escape the distractions of the world eventually led him to Ephrata to create a religious retreat. 

Soon others were joining the charismatic Beissel and by 1750 approximately 80 men and women comprised the "Community of the Solitary" at Ephrata. All agreed to live a regimented, celibate life to better worship God.

Today the Ephrata Cloister is recognized as a National Historic Landmark, run by the Pennsylvania Historical and Museum Commission. Tours are conducted seven days a week until December and several days a week thereafter.

Taking the Tour
Parking is plentiful at the Cloister and a short walk takes guests to a Visitor's Center where they will be greeted by a guide in a simple, long, hooded, white robe, the traditional garb that residents were required to wear at the time.

After viewing a short film on Beissel and his pursuit of religious freedom, visitors are led to outside benches. There, in the midst of historic buildings that have been described as some of the most significant, surviving examples of pre-colonial architecture in America, guests learn more about the unique community.
Guide gives insight into the community that lived onsite.
Members of the sect led a life of discipline and celibacy, indulging in only one meager meal a day and sleeping six hours a night. The purpose of such self-restraint, according to Beissel, was to prepare his followers for heaven through earthly denial. Sleeping accommodations were comprised of a bench and a wooden pillow and the six hours of sleep were broken into two three-hour periods, interrupted for a time of worship in the onsite meeting house.
Bed with wooden block pillow.


book
Bible in the Meeting House

Members spent the remaining hours of their days engaging in a variety of jobs ranging from gardening, to milling, mending, cooking and other tasks related to the upkeep of the compound. The brothers and sisters even purchased a printing press and were responsible for printing the largest book in the colonies at the time. "The Martyr's Mirror" spans 1,500 pages and describes the early persecution of the Anabaptists. To this day, it is treasured by the Amish.
church
The Meetinghouse
Dining area
spinning
Spinning Area
oven
Squirrel Tail oven
Guest cottage
After a short introduction to the life of the people who lived in the Cloister, guests are guided to the Saron, otherwise known as the Sister's House, where members ate, slept, cooked and worked. The second stop is the Saal, or meeting house, known as one of the oldest places of worship in Pennsylvania--where residents listened to sermons conducted by Beissel. Song, penned both by Beissel and his followers, sometimes contained an astonishing 300 verses.

At the end of the tour, guests are given the opportunity to explore the grounds and outbuildings, sometimes with the help of modern technology. Guests can dial phone numbers listed on buildings to learn more about each structure.

Within the Cloister is also a cemetery, where visitors can see the headstones of those who have been laid to rest, including leader Conrad Beissel, whose passing in 1768 led to the slow demise of the community, after the takeover by Peter Miller, who believe that the monastic life was no longer attractive to new generations.
tombstones
The Cemetery
grave


By 1777, a third of the members died of typhoid and by 1814, the Community of the Solitary at Ephrata dissolved as the last four followers joined the Seventh Day Baptist Church, marking an end to the "holy experiment."

To learn more, visit: www.ephratacloster.org.







At D.C.'s Newseum, the Media is the Message

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If you’re interested in the world as seen through the eyes of a reporter, the Newseum is a must-visit destination on any trip to Washington, D.C.
Located at 555 Pennsylvania Avenue, Northwest, (within viewing distance of the Capitol), the seven-level news museum features 15 theaters, as many galleries and is a treasure trove of all things news related. History buffs, in particular, will spend hours poring over the artifacts which span five centuries and tell the story the press plays in shaping our perceptions.
Tickets cost $21.21 for adults and $16.96 for seniors and tickets are good for two consecutive days, so you can take your time to view everything there is to see. If you’re taking children, you can take advantage of their summer special which gains them free entrance from July 1 through Labor Day.
Museum
The outside of the Newseum in Washington, D.C. 
Navigating the Space
The education begins before guests set foot inside the front doors of the Newseum. Carved into the front of the building are the five freedoms of the First Amendment to remind visitors of the limited powers of the U.S. government. Located just outside the entrance is an ever-changing exhibit of the daily front pages of more than 80 newspapers worldwide.
Beyond the front doors is the Hearst Orientation Theater where visitors can view a four-minute video for tips on how to make the best use of their time to prioritize the topics that interest them most.

Learn about Law Enforcement and One Country’s Struggle for Freedom
The Berlin Wall Gallery, located on the concourse level, is where most visitors navigate first upon arrival. There guests can view 12-foot-high segments of the Berlin Wall, which museum officials brought back after making a deal with Berlin’s Check-Point Charlie museum. The western side of the wall contains vivid political graffiti with messages like “Act Up,” and contrasts starkly against the bare eastern side, symbolizing the fight between freedom and oppression. “One of most oft-taken photographs at the Newseum is the Berlin Wall,” said R. Scott Williams, Senior Vice President of Marketing and Public Relations. Guests will also view an imposing guard tower brought back from Berlin at the same time the segments of the wall were acquired. According to museum officials, when purchased in 1993, each 2.5-ton segment cost the museum $5,000, with the guard tower costing $15,000. When the wall came down there was celebration in the streets. Today, it’s a grim reminder of the nearly 200 people who died trying to escape and the 30,000 political prisoners who were jailed at the hands of a tyrannical regime.
Berlin Wall exhibit
Wall
Western side of the Berlin Wall

Also located on the concourse level is the FBI Exhibit, containing 200 artifacts from the biggest cases in the past 100 years. Among them are the Unabomber’s cabin, a sawed-off rifle used by Patty Hearst and the electric chair used to execute the kidnapper of the Lindbergh baby. “The items you’ll see here are related to big moments in history that it’s one of the exhibits that most people remark on after they leave,” said Williams.
Don Bolles' car

Bomb-damaged car belonging to investigative reporter Don Bolles.

Pulitzer Prize Photographs and a 4-D Theater

Photographers, in particular, will enjoy the Pulitzer Prize Photographs Gallery located on level one, where every winning photo is on display, some with interactive kiosks featuring interviews with photographers and the stories behind the compelling images.
Level one also features a 4-D theater, where guests will view a 13-minute film which takes them on a journey through some of the most dramatic events in journalism history, including the story of ground-breaking, female journalist Elizabeth Jane Cochrane, who adopted the pen name of “Nellie Bly.” Cochrane is notorious for blowing the lid off brutality and neglect at the Women’s Lunatic Asylum at New York’s Blackwell’s Island by feigning insanity to gain entrance. Learn of her struggles at the asylum and how her investigative efforts effected change in the late 1800s.

Remembering 9-11
One of the most moving exhibits is located on the fourth level. On the wall of the 9/11 Gallery, are framed newspapers showing journalists’ reaction to events that occurred that fateful day.
Located in the middle of the gallery guests will view the mangled antenna from the North Tower of the World Trade Center and artifacts salvaged from the scene. They will learn how journalists ran towards disaster to bring a story to the masses, and view a tribute to photojournalist William Biggart who lost his life that day. 
newspaper front page
Headlines after 9/11


newspapers

headlines
World Trade Center remains
Piece of the North Tower of the World Trade Center
Civil Rights at 50
Visitors can view the "1968: Civil Rights at 50" exhibit located on Level 4 now through January 2, 2019. Historic images and artifacts highlight events that shaped history after the assassination of Reverend Martin Luther King and Senator Robert F. Kennedy. The exhibit explores political and social upheaval during a tumultuous time and juxtaposes political violence against Martin Luther King's advocacy for non-violence.

Journalists Memorial
On Monday, June 4, 2018, the Newseum rededicated its Journalists Memorial.  The two-story, glass structure, located on Level 3, currently commemorates 2,323 reporters, broadcasters, photographers and editors who lost their lives while reporting the news. Their names are etched in glass and kiosks provide visitor with information related to each individual, how they served their profession and sadly how they lost their lives while doing so. The searchable database can be accessed here. 
memorial
Journalists Memorial Credit: Maria Bryk/Newseum
Take a Picture with the Capitol as a Backdrop
Don’t end your visit without taking the elevator to the sixth floor to the Greenspun Terrace which overlooks Pennsylvania Avenue and provides spectacular views of the U.S. Capitol, the Supreme Court and the Washington Monument.
terrace
View from the Terrace. Credit: Sam Kittner/Newseum
Welcoming Thousands of Visitors Each Year
Nearly 810,000 guests visit the Newseum each year and the destination now ranks #19 on TripAdvisor’s list of “things to do in Washington, D.C.”  Krista Canfield McNish traveled from San Francisco to visit the museum. “As a former journalist, I was a bit worried that the Newseum might let me down, but I absolutely loved it. I found everything there to be compelling and interesting. For me, the highlights were the Pulitzer Prize Photographs Gallery (some of the images will bring tears to your eyes) and the 9/11 Gallery. I also loved the Today's Front Pages Gallery. The newspapers of the day that they put out are pretty awesome.”

These are but a few of the many exhibits that can take hours to navigate, which is why I suggest splitting your visit in to two separate days if you can fit it into your schedule. You’ll discover that it’s certainly time well spent.

Learn more at: www.newseum.org

Kayaking among the Ghost Ships of Mallows Bay

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I never knew kayaking could be so much fun until I tried it. Now I’m hooked and am looking forward to my next excursion, thanks to my enjoyable experience learning about an important era in history while paddling through Mallows Bay on the Potomac River. The 14-square mile area, located in Charles County Maryland, is well within sight of Quantico Marine Base and located in Nanjemoy.


My friends warned me that I’d get wet and cautioned against taking along a camera. For once, I wished I hadn’t listened. But for a small splash from the paddles, I emerged dry thanks to the soft launch located onsite. My seasoned kayak buddy knew better and carted his camera along to capture at a few moments of the memorable trip.


WWI
Egrets build huge nests amidst the rotting remains of WWI warships. (Photo: Courtesy of Reed Hellman) 
From April through October, Atlantic Kayak guides join other kayakers to lead the way and share the story of “The Ghost Fleet of Mallows Bay.” Guests glide among the decaying detritus of wooden steamships and learn that the structures were once part of a national effort dating back to WWI when Woodrow Wilson approved one of the largest and most expensive shipbuilding programs in history. Because time was of the essence, the hastily and shoddily constructed ships were rendered almost obsolete from the onset, yet work continued well after the war ended to fulfill already agreed-upon contracts.

Years later, the government sold what was left of an outmoded fleet to Western Marine and Salvage Company of Alexandria, Virginia for a grand total of $750,000—the cost of one boat. The company proceeded to extract the valuable metal and burn the hulls to the waterline to assist in the process. Before work was complete, the company claimed bankruptcy and today visitors can safely kayak through the rotting remains.


Reed Hellman, who first visited the Bay in the 1970s as part of his job as field technician for the then-named Maryland Department of Chesapeake Bay Affairs, said that time has taken its toll. “When I first visited, many of the hulls were still intact and above the waterline.” Hellman, who returned to the site recently, said, “It was much easier to get into the heart of the fleet this time.”

Hellman highly recommends the trip. “Experiencing it from the vantage of a tiny kayak opens wide a window into the history of one of our nation’s first attempts to function as a global power. We undertook building the ships that now molder in Mallows Bay as an effort to answer our allies desperate call for help in wartime. That the effort failed was a result of circumstances, not our country’s will to succeed. For me, Mallows Bay stands as a monument to our nation’s evolving role in the world.”


bird
A photo taken during my kayak trip. (Photo: Courtesy, Reed Helman)

Don Shomette, author of “The Ghost Fleet of Mallows Bay,” has been hard at work to ensure that the site gets the recognition it deserves.  The marine historian has been taking steps help the area achieve designation as a national marine sanctuary.

In 2014, NOAA invited communities across the nation to nominate their most treasured places in the country's marine and Great Lakes waters for consideration as national marine sanctuaries. "With my colleagues, I was able to assemble a team to reach out to public and private institutions, individuals, historians, colleges and museums to complete a proposal. The major step was to get organized, then engage the public,” said Shomette. Shomette said another step included generating hundreds of pages of documentation to prove that the site deserved a listing on the National Register as an historic and archeological district.
ships
World War I Warships as they once appeared in Mallow's Bay in 1925. (Photo credit: Don Shomette) 
boats
An aerial photo of Mallow's Bay (Photo credit: Marine Robotics and Remote Sensing, Duke University)

Bay
Kayakers paddle along in Mallow's Bay. (Photo credit: Kimberly Hernandez, MDNR, Chesapeake and Coast Service) 

Today Shomette is confident that the site will soon gain the sought-after recognition. He describes the reaction of Dr. Jim Delgado, former Director of the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration’s (NOAA)Maritime Heritage Program. “When I handed him my archeological report, he was speechless.”


All I know is that this first-time kayaker was plunked down into a very special experience, from the history of the area, to the beauty of the wildlife. More than 100 species of birds nest there and cohabit with other creatures like river otter and beavers. I felt fortunate to witness eagles soaring overhead and osprey constructing huge nests on the peaceful wreckage that was once intended for an entirely different purpose.


Bald eagle
An eagle surveys its surroundings. (Photo credit: Paula Shiller, courtesy of MDNR)
birds
An Osprey pair nest atop a ship. (Photo credit: Daryl Byrd, courtesy of MDNR) 

Jody Hedeman Couser, Director of the Chesapeake Conservancy, is hoping that more people will take an interest in visiting the area as it continues the journey towards national recognition.

“Mallows Bay has the largest collection of historic shipwrecks in the Western Hemisphere and they are full of wildlife. The Chesapeake Conservancy is proud to be a lead partner in the steering committee seeking the designation and we’re thrilled that Mallows Bay is just a step closer towards becoming the first National Marine Sanctuary designated in more than 20 years and the first ever in the Chesapeake,” she said.


A Day in Cape May

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Inn
The Inn of Cape May, circa 1894 is located at Beach Avenue and Ocean Street in Cape May.
Cape May has the distinction of being one of the oldest seashore resorts in the country. The scenic area with the laid-back vibe is a perfect place to spend a few days.

Due to my schedule, staying overnight wasn't quite feasible this summer, so I had to be content to make the most of just a few hours. One-day trips are common in the area where I live and I soon found a Lowees tour at a price that trumped their major competitor, so my friend and I booked a trip and fortunately the weather cooperated. On a sunny, early morning in mid-June we groggily boarded the bus and by lunchtime we were at our destination.

We may have been limited to a period of about eight hours, but we managed to squeeze in a lot during that time. We rode a trolly, learning tidbits about the area along the way, strolled around the town to admire Cape May's charming architecture, shopped and dined downtown, explored the Emlen Physick Estate, stuck our toes in the sand and poked our heads into a few places where we probably didn't belong.

First Stop - Downtown
The bus dropped us off at the Cape May Welcome Center located just a few blocks away from the Washington Street Mall. The sprawling outdoor center, which opened to the public in 1971, spans several blocks and features dozens of independent boutique shops offering everything from saltwater taffy, to art, accessories and apparel and is a popular meeting place that is open year round.
Open-Air Mall in Cape May
Convenient benches are provided for shoppers to take the occasional rest in between shopping.

Washington Mall
Shoppers enjoy a stroll on a sunny June day.
horse
Horse-drawn carriage carries tourists around the Washington Street Mall. 
Della's Five and Dime
We had to make a pit stop for expensive sunblock at Dellas 5 & 10. I'll bet they sell a lot of it. 
Restaurants are plentiful in Cape May, with about a dozen in the Washington Mall alone, from pizza shops, to casual eateries. Those seeking an elegant white-tablecloth experience may enjoy Tisha's Fine Dining, which ranks high on TripAdvisor for stellar service and dishes like Filet au Poivre, Thai Salmon and Seafood Risotto. We decided to take a more casual approach to lunch by dining al fresco at the Ugly Mug, where I thoroughly enjoyed a half pound of rock crab served with a tangy mustard sauce and a side of meaty chili. My friend gave her tuna salad bowl a thumbs up, as well.
restaurant
My lifelong friend and I enjoyed our lunch at the Ugly Mug. Hi Jen!
 
After lunch, we decided to do a bit of shopping and I spotted several reasonably priced pieces at the Cape May Art Gallery.  I had to pass them by since I'm running out of wall space, but my friend ended up with a winter pastoral scene. Manager Karen Bianco was kind enough to hold her painting until we were ready to board the bus. I especially liked these two below.


painting
painting

No trip to the shore is complete without salt water taffy and you can purchase some at the candy shop located at 324 Washington Street Mall. Fralinger's salt water taffy, which dates back to 1885, is the legacy of an entrepreneur whose creative ingenuity sparked a successful business and a tradition that continues to this day. When glass blower and fish merchant Joseph Fralinger decided to leave Philadelphia to return to his native town of Atlantic City, he had a goal in mind. He would take a job as a bricklayer to earn enough money to start a concession stand on the boardwalk where he sold fruit, soda and lemonade until another door opened and he was offered a taffy stand on Applegate Pier. Fralinger decided to try to improve the recipe and tinkered with the ingredients, turning out his first batch of molasses taffy in 1885. The success inspired him to create 24 more flavors and a bulb went on in his head, thanks to his experience in the fish merchant business. He would pack the taffey in oyster boxes for tourists to take home as souvenirs. The idea was a hit and lasted all these years. Today few leave the shore without at least one of the little white boxes tucked under their arms.

candy shop
Fralinger's sells a variety of merchandise to satisfy your sweet tooth.
Admiring the "Painted Ladies"
Cape May house


Painted lady


Cape May house

Cape May touts one of the largest existing collections of late 19th Century frame buildings in the country. A good way to get an overview of the plethora of beautiful Victorian structures is to take a one-hour, guided trolley tour. The tours, which are priced at $12 per person, run year round thanks to the  Mid-Atlantic Center for the Arts & Humanities, a non-profit that is committed to promoting the preservation, interpretation and cultural enrichment of the Cape May region for its residents and visitors.
cottage
This is just one of the cute houses you'll see on the Trolly tour. The above is an example of "Gingerbread style" architecture.
Tickets for the Trolly Tour can be purchased at the Washington Mall Information Booth. To combine the historic tour with a one-hour tour of the Emlen Physick House costs an additional $10. Active military and veterans are offered a 20 percent discount.

A Tour of the Emlen Physick House
Despite knowing a little about architecture, I was surprised to hear a few terms with which I was unfamiliar while on the Cape May Tour. For example, the term "drunken architecture" refers to the use of a combination of styles. One example of drunken architecture can be seen at the Cape May Inn (the first picture in this blog post). Another is "Stick Architecture," a style used by architect Frank Furness for the Physick estate. Furness designed more than 600 buildings in the greater Philadelphia area in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.The "Stick" style was considered avant-garde at the time and attracted its share of attention because it stood out from other Cape May styles, which generally ranged from Italianate, to Mansard and Gothic.

Emlen Physick, Jr. came from a wealthy Philadelphia family. His grandfather, Dr. Philip Syng Physick, was considered the father of American surgery and invented numerous surgical procedures and medical instruments that are used today.

Emlen graduated from medical school, but preferred instead to live the life of a farmer. He also bought and sold real estate and was known for being a vocal presence at city council meetings.
A life-long bachelor, Emlen lived with his widowed mother Frances Ralston and his aunt Emilie Parmentier at the house, which was completed in 1879. Today the estate attracts approximately 300,000 visitors per year and is maintained by the Mid-Atlantic Center for the Arts & Humanities.
Stick architecture
The Physick Estate--exterior.
fretwork
Wealthy individuals of the era were fascinated with Moorish fretwork, a
common form of decoration.
parlour
Rooms in the Physick estate.

harp

foyer
The Hallway of the Physick House

vase
A Capidomonte vase from Italy.

Physick Estate

dining room

dining room
Celery was a big deal back in the day--it even had its own serving dish.


stove
Old coal stove for cooking

A Walk around Town

After we finished our tour, we took a walk around the area to snap a few more shots of the incredible buildings for which Cape May is known.
hotel
The Chalfonte Hotel, built in 1875, is an example of the Italianate Style.
pancake house
This is Bill's Pancake House, which was a cocktail bar in the swinging '50s.
library
The cute little Cape May Library.

Below is an Episcopal Church
church

The impressive Congress Hall hotel loomed large in my mind during our trolley tour, particularly because I hadn't recalled seeing it on prior trips, so I made it a point to return on foot to check it out.  I learned later that the business celebrated its bicentennial in 2016 and has been recognized by Conde Nast Traveler as one of the top hotels in the Northeast. Although I wasn't a hotel guest, I managed to sneak in for a few shots.
hotel
Check-in area at Congress Hall.
Congress Hall
The bar at Congress Hall.
hotel
Congress Hall celebrated its bicentennial in 2016.

Below an employee delivers "room service" to a beach guest.


cloches
Our last stop was to spend a few minutes walking the 2.1 mile stretch of beach before we concluded our visit with a meal and a cocktail at Fins Bar & Grille located at 142 Decatur Street. 
beach
Cape May Beach 

We admired the huge saltwater aquarium at Fins before taking a seat outside on the comfortable porch and indulging in a carb-heavy, but oh-so-good dinner. I can't believe that I'm raving over flatbread, but it really was delicious. I ordered the four-cheese and my friend ordered "Fins Pie," made with jumbo lump crab, three types of cheese, arugula, avocado and lemon thyme aioli--delish!

Before we knew it, the time had come to re-board the bus. There is something to be said for having the luxury of staying overnight, but I am just glad that I had the opportunity to visit the area this summer and, of course, there is always next year. I also hear that the area is beautifully decorated during the Christmas season, so that is a possibility as well.

Activities for a Future Visit - Cape May Lighthouse and Birding

One of the things we missed during our visit due to lack of time was the Cape May Lighthouse, where guests can climb 199 steps to reach the top for a spectacular view of the area. The structure dates back to 1859 and is still working today. Since being restored by the Mid-Atlantic Center for the Arts and Humanities in 1986, more than 2.5 million visitors have climbed to the top. That's a lot of huffing and puffing. I better start working out.

Birders, in particular, may be interested to learn that Cape May is one of the East Coast's premier birding areas, attracting approximately 428 species throughout the year, with some 50,000 hawks passing through annually. Tweet! Even National Geographic gives Cape May its due in this area, listing it as one of the World's Best Destinations for Birding. The Cape May Bird Observatory (CMBO), founded in 1976 by the New Jersey Audubon, plans plenty of birding events throughout the year, including free, one-hour morning walks led by a naturalist. Coming up in October is the annual fall festival held at the Inn of Cape May (October 18-21). Learn more about the festival and the many other events held by the CMBO by visiting their website here.


These are just a few suggestions for making the most of your time in Cape May, a charming area, with plenty of history and an array of activities to appeal to a wide range of tastes.

Visiting the Wooded Wonderland of Mount Gretna

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Summer is a perfect time to visit tranquil Mt. Gretna. The small Lebanon County borough attracts vacationers seeking a quaint, quiet, wooded respite from crowded city life. Those who are familiar with the area might be just a tad jealous of the lucky individuals who regularly sprawl out on hammocks with the latest novel on the oversized porches which are part and parcel of the Mt. Gretna Experience. The good news is that you, too, can have that same experience. In the past, I wasn't quite sure that any of the cottages were for rent, but this year I made it a point to do some research and discovered quite a few available through Air B&B, or Penn Realty. I do suggest booking a few weeks, if not months, in advance, to reserve the cottage you want at a price you can afford.

Below are a few pictures of a place we rented during a recent summer visit. Penn Realty provided us with nearly everything we needed, from place settings, to paper products and more to ensure that our stay would be a comfortable one.
cottage
A four-bedroom rental on Princeton.


cottage
The rear of the property.

Mt. Gretna porch
The sprawling front porch.
Not quite unplugged, but tranquil nonetheless.

cottage kitchen
The spacious kitchen included everything to entertain.
cottage living room
The living room.

Roots in Chautauqua
It comes as a surprise to some that Mount Gretna was modeled after New York's Chautauqua, which was established in 1874 in New York State. The movement began as an outdoor educational experience for Sunday school teachers and grew in popularity until automobiles and movie theaters captured the public's attention.

When guests first visit Mt. Gretna, they'll see an imposing structure that seems a bit out of place in the little cottage community. The Hall of Philosophy, built in 1910, was inspired by Greek architecture and looms large as one enters the enclave. To this day, it serves as a center for learning where members of the community can gather together to hear lectures on religion, learn about arts and crafts, or take part in political discussions.
building
When we visited this summer, a group of ladies were enjoying a game of Mahjong on the front porch of the Hall of Philosophy.
Today there are only 19 remaining member communities of the Chautauqua Trail, which is based on the four pillars of Chautauqua: art, education, religion and recreation.

The Mount Gretna Historical Society
Visitors can learn more about the history of the area at the Mt. Gretna Historical Society located at 206 Pennsylvania Avenue. The two-story building contains relics of years past, including a deer from a carousel that once entertained guests who visited the area.
carousel
horse
Historical society artifacts.
Woodland Shopping
No destination is complete, (at least in my opinion), without shopping opportunities. The Gretna Emporium, located in the heart of Mount Gretna along route 117, was once the Chautauqua's Literary and Scientific Circle building. Today guests can spend time browsing yard art and other items displayed on the front porch. Inside are a variety of books, toys and unique gift items.

Enjoying Time on the Water
Mount Gretna Lake and Beach is open every year from the last weekend in May through Labor Day. The family-owned entertainment hub is a favorite for those who enjoy frolicking on the water. Canoes, tubes and kayaks are all available for rent.
Teens, in particular, seem to enjoy lining up to take their turn on a huge swing that soars high into the sky and reaches out over the lake.
For those interested in making a day of it, a snack bar and shaded picnic grove are provided and a children's playground offers hours of fun for those who visit.
lake
Mt. Gretna Lake & Beach
lake
This is me in the front and Sue, otherwise known as Lucy and Ethel, when we started going off course. We made it back though.

Seeing a Show
Theater fans have not one, but two options in the Mt. Gretna area.  The Gretna Theatre, situated at the top of the hill at Carnegie and Pennsylvania Avenues, is known as one of the oldest summer theatres in the United States. Audiences have been entertained in this same location since 1927 by such notable figures as Charlton Heston, Bernadette Peters and Sally Struthers, to name just a few.
theatre
Mount Gretna Theatre sits up on a hill, not far from the Hall of Philosophy.

The interior of the Mount Gretna Theatre

The Timbers Restaurant and Dinner Theatre, located at 350 Timbers Road, is another venue that has been a favorite of theater fans for decades. Diners can choose from a buffet, or an ala carte meal before each performance. Owner Kathleen Roberts takes great care to hire top-notch talent, escorting her team to New York every February to audition first-class performers. She winnows down the field of talented actors to the very best and those who are talented enough to make the cut have the pleasure of performing at this beloved establishment. To see upcoming plays and times, visit their website here.

theatre
The Timbers has been a beloved family owned institution for decades.
Dining at Gretna
Guests can enjoy breakfast and lunch all year round at the homey Porch and Pantry, open Tuesday through Sunday from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. Morning favorites include grilled sticky buns, maple French toast coffee and pancakes that are big enough to satisfy even the largest appetites. During warmer weather guests can relax outside on the spacious front porch beneath the gentle breeze of ceiling fans.
eatery
Breakfast and lunch is available year round from Tuesday through Sunday at The Porch and Pantry.
Another dining option is the Mount Gretna Hideaway at 40 Boulevard Avenue. It's become a gathering place for locals and visitors alike and is known for it's casual atmosphere and its shaded outdoor deck. Menu items include burgers, salads, sandwiches and entrees ranging from pasta to steaks.

Another perennial favorite is the popular Jigger Shop, which has been a fixture in the community for a century. For many families, it's a tradition to visit there at least once during the summer. Open daily from noon to 10 p.m., the casual eatery serves soups, salads, sandwiches and ice cream. If you're an out-of-towner interested in trying a regional specialty, you might want to give the LCB, otherwise known as the Lebanon County Banquet, a try. Made with grilled sweet bologna crafted at the nearby Seltzer's bologna plant from a recipe that has been handed down through generations, it is a unique menu item that you won't find just anywhere.
deck
Guests enjoy ice cream on the deck of The Jigger Shop.
The Jigger shop is best known for its frozen concoctions with choices ranging from Baked Alaska, to Gretna's Frozen Hot Chocolate, Pineapple Upside Down Cake, Apple Fritter Flambe and peach melba. One of the most popular items on the menu is the "Jigger," a specialty sundae that is made with French vanilla ice cream, a choice of chocolate or butterscotch topping, whipped marshmallow and a crunchy topping known as "jigger nuts."

One other notable eatery I must mention, located just outside Mt. Gretna, is The Divine Swine. My husband and I passed it by until this last visit. Little did we know what we were missing.  The stand alone building, located across the street from the Renaissance Faire , is a casual eatery that specializes in BBQ, offering everything from pulled pork sandwiches, to brisket, chicken and ribs and cajun sausage. We placed our orders at the front counter and took a seat at a cute, high-top table made from a beer keg sporting chicken feet.
Tables at The Divine Swine.
There we shared "The Divine," and indeed it was. The sampler, which was plenty for both of us,was piled high with pulled pork, brisket, and Cajun sausage and served with Texas toast and two sides--in our case mac and cheese and beans. We're still craving a repeat of that meal, but it's a bit out of the way. Perhaps next year.


Annual Home and Garden Tour

porch
An example of some of the homes you'll see in Mt. Gretna

parlor
This home was on a tour stop a few years ago.

On the first Saturday in August, Gretna Music hosts the Tour of Homes and Gardens. Mt. Gretna Music brings chamber music, jazz and other musical genres to Central Pennsylvania and the organization has been going strong for decades now. The popular fundraiser gives guests a glimpse inside of about a dozen homes and several gardens. Ticket prices can be found on their website. The tour starts at the post office on Princeton Avenue and at the tent in front of the Mt. Gretna Playhouse.

The Annual Outdoor Art Show
Each year, on the third Saturday in August, art lovers visit from near and far for the Mt. Gretna Outdoor Art Show. The is year number 44 for the juried exhibition, which is comprised of hundreds of exhibitors who work in a variety of mediums. A Kids Art Show features children's art and activities for the up-and-coming little artist. A food tent, live music and strolling performers are all part of the experience that runs all weekend. To learn more, follow this link.

These are just a few suggestions on how to make the most of a trip to scenic Mount Gretna, a place where generations of families return year after year to socialize, embrace the serenity and soak in nature's beautiful surroundings.






Butterflies and Blooms at Hershey Gardens

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When you think of the quaint town of Hershey, chocolate and amusement park rides likely come to mind, but what you may not know is that Hershey is also home to a 23-acre botanical display garden which touts 3,500 rose bushes, 11 themed gardens, including a  Children's Garden, and the newest installation, The Milton & Catherine Hershey Conservatory, which features a Butterfly Atrium that is enjoyed by visitors year round.
Conservatory
The Milton & Catherine Hershey Conservatory at Hershey Gardens opened in July, 2016.

The idea, of course, sprang from the mind of no other than Milton S. Hershey himself, who, when approached to sponsor a national rosarium in Washington, D.C., decided instead to bring the idea home to his local community.

Hershey's intent to create a "nice garden of roses,' began simply enough, with 3.5 acres opening to the public in 1937. In typical Hershey fashion however, the project expanded exponentially over the years.
fountain
A fountain flows just beyond the Conservatory.
roses
Hershey Gardens features an impressive display of 3,500 roses comprised of 175 different varieties.
roses


One wonders if Hershey's employees might have placed bets on whether his humble ideas would always end up expanding into projects that would dwarf the initial plans.

Today the Gardens span 23-acres, with 3,500 roses of 175 varieties stealing the show. Eleven additional themed gardens add to the impressive and colorful array. Among them are an herb garden, a nut grove featuring dozens of trees, an ornamental grass garden, a Japanese Garden, a children's garden and  a perennial garden featuring flowers that bloom according to the season, from tulips and daffodils in the spring, to sunflowers and daisies in the summer, to chrysanthemums in the fall.

gardens
longue
I felt like returning with a book; I wonder if that's permitted. 
bench
A butterfly bench for visitors to rest in between touring.

flowers
A group of  bright, cheery sunflowers.
blooms
Daisies and coneflowers bloom in the summer.


The Butterfly Atrium

One of the newest and most popular features of the Hershey Gardens is the Butterfly Atrium where guests can marvel at hundreds of the winged creatures and watch them feed on the fruit provided at various stations around the room.
atrium
The Welcome Pavilion is one of the first things visitors will see upon entering the Hershey Gardens. This is the Milton & Catherine Hershey Conservatory where the Butterfly Atrium is located.

atrium
plants

Rhopalocera
The Butterfly Atrium features hundreds of tropical and North American butterflies.

Rhopalocera


Rhopalocera


Rhopalocera
Butterflies feast on ripe fruit.

butterflies

staghorn fern

butterflies

Rhopalocera


Rhopalocera
The Butterfly Atrium is one of only 25 year-round tropical butterfly atriums in the United States and represents 200-300 species. It is kept at a constant temperature of approximately 80 degrees Fahrenheit and 70 percent humidity.

The Children's Garden
Children of all ages enjoy the 1.5-acre educational children's garden, which opened to the public in 2003. Lolly Tai, author of The Magic of Children's Gardens, describes it as "an excellent educational resource providing opportunities for hands-on learning, self-discovery and fun with water features, hideaways, creatures, surprises and whimsical features."
entrance
The entrance to the Children's Garden.
misters
Misters shaped like Hershey's Kisses keep children cool and encourage play.
Scavenger hunts make education fun.
sculpture
A dancing pig sculpture and dance chimes elicit smiles in the Hugs and Kisses Garden
If you're in town to visit Hershey Park, the Gardens are located nearby, making it easy to add both destinations to your itinerary. These are but a few highlights you'll experience during your visit. You can view additional information on prices, hours of operation and more by clicking on this link. 

Touring Maryland's Scenic Eastern Shore

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Fall is a fantastic time to visit the picturesque area of Talbot County Maryland and the small towns of Easton, Oxford and St. Michaels are especially pleasant this time of year when temperatures are tolerable and crowds are minimal.

Exploring Historic Downtown Easton


Easton
Downtown Easton
The Talbot County seat of Easton, Maryland is a quaint, small town with a population of just under 16,000. Visitors who prefer to be centrally located may consider staying at the Tidewater Inn on Dover Street. Located in the historic district, the charming, 95-room inn, which dates back to 1949, is within walking distance of boutique shops offering everything from gifts, to jewelry, antiques and apparel.
inn
The Tidewater Inn

Located across the street from the Tidewater is the historic Avalon Theatre. Built in 1921 and touted as the “Showplace of the Eastern Shore,” the renovated, art-deco style venue continues to draw crowds from across the region.  Guests of the Tidewater can simply walk across the street to enjoy a show. Today the theater serves the community as a performing arts center, often featuring nationally renowned acts.
theatre
The Avalon Theatre
Easton appeals to art lovers as well, with plenty of galleries located within walking distance of the Inn. The Academy Art Museum, located at 106 South Street, attracts nearly 50,000 visitors annually.
museum
The Academy Art Museum

painting

The interior of the Academy Art Museum.

The Tidewater Inn's Hunters' Tavern, serves dishes like lamb loin, duck, scallops, filet mignon and more, with additional dining establishments within walking distance of the hotel. The Bartlett Pear Inn, which opened in 2009 and serves French-inspired, farm-to-table cuisine, continues to gain accolades from foodies from around the region. In 2014, the husband-and-wife team ranked #25 in the list of “100 Very Best Restaurants” according to the Washingtonian. I recently learned that the historic inn, built in 1790, is on the market for $1.295 million. You can learn more about 10,251-square foot property and the cost to acquire it here. 
salad
A soft-shell crab salad at the Bartlett Pear.
Visit One of the Oldest Towns in America

The nearby town of Oxford, with a population of less than 1,000, gives off a decidedly laid-back vibe. A stroll down the tree-lined streets of the waterfront village is especially lovely this time of year as the fall foliage unfolds in all its splendid glory and early risers can observe watermen unloading the day's catch.
clock
Downtown Oxford.

Tourists seldom leave the area without sampling the ice cream available at the Scottish Highland Creamery, which boasts nearly 600 flavors. Favorites like tiramisu, birthday cake and double Belgian Chocolate, receive rave reviews from locals and visitors alike.

Not far from the Creamery is The Robert Morris Inn, known as the oldest full-service inn in the United States. Known as one of the crown jewels of Oxford, the Inn was built in 1710 and named after the father of the financier of the American Revolution. Setting foot inside is like stepping back in time. For an authentic, historic experience, rent one of the heritage colonial rooms, which are original to the main house and offer scenic views overlooking the water.

The tavern, with its exposed brick walls and slate floors, is an ideal place for a casual repast. Those who prefer to dine al fresco can enjoy a bite on the patio. A formal dining room is also available for those who choose to enjoy their meals in an elegant, upscale atmosphere.
Inn
The Robert Morris Inn.
One of the more popular items at the Robert Morris Inn is the jumbo lump crab cake. Baltimore Style magazine reports that “Chef Mark Salter’s crab cakes are just as good as the ones James Michener touted when he supped here many moons ago.”

Ride a Ferry to St. Michaels
Step outside the Robert Morris Inn and onto a historic ferry, which will escort you to St. Michaels. Established in 1683, the Oxford-Bellevue Ferry is known as America’s oldest privately owned ferry. The passenger boat runs seven days a week from April through October and on weekends through mid-November.
Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum
The Open Boatshop at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum
One of the first guest stops is the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum. The 90-minute, guided tour educates visitors on the history and culture of the Chesapeake Bay. Many tourists climb the steps of the 1879 Hooper Strait Lighthouse to experience the best view in the area.

Also located on the property is a boat shed, which was once a cannery warehouse used by the St. Michaels Packing Company. Today visitors walk through the structure to inspect boats that were once used for fishing, crabbing and oystering.
crabs

For accommodations in St. Michaels, look no further than the 78-room Perry Cabin Inn. Don’t let the rustic name fool you. If your idea of roughing it is choosing between a couple’s massage, or an 80-minute pumpkin peel facial, the Inn at Perry Cabin is the right choice for you. The resort offers an array of spa treatments, along with complimentary bike and kayaks to pedal, or row, your way around the region. Staff serves daily afternoon tea and the waterfront property offers beautiful views of the Miles River.
Luxury Inn
The Inn at Perry Cabin by Belmond
room
A room at the Inn at Perry Cabin.
boats
The front lawn at the Inn at Perry Cabin.

These are but a few tips that will take you on an easy drive through three areas of Talbot County where you can indulge in a laid-back, unhurried, luxurious trip. Talbot County offers so much more than I’ve described here, so for help in planning your own perfect, long weekend, visit their website at www.tourtalbot.org

A Long Weekend in Historic Charlottesville, Virginia

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home
Charlottesville is home to Thomas Jefferson's Monticello
A few weeks ago, I decided to carve out a few days to poke around Charlottesville, Virginia, located along the foothills of the Blue Mountains. What I discovered was an array of activities and attractions to appeal to a wide range of interests.

Because I had but three days to explore, I was forced to use my time wisely, so I made it a point to hit the hot spots. What I walked away with was a new appreciation for the area and its rich history.

Staying in the Heart of the Action
If convenience is high on your list of priorities, you can't go wrong by booking a stay in the historic district at the Omni Hotel in Charlottesville, located just 20 minutes away from the Charlottesville airport and steps away from The Downtown Mall.

The 205-room hotel has been named the "Number 1 Hotel in Charlottesville," by the Daily Progress and features a seven-story glass atrium, two pools (indoor and outdoor), a fitness center, coffee shop and an onsite restaurant (The Pointe), which I highly recommend. I'll allow the picture below to speak for itself.
Omni
Our room at the Omni Hotel in Charlottesville.
Not to put you to sleep, but one thing that impressed me the most was the bed, which had me at zzzz. I couldn't get over how comfortable it was. Usually, I sleep like a baby, meaning that I toss, turn and whine. Not here. I felt cradled in comfort and was out like a light in short order. I'll probably be comparing that bed to all others for a very long time.
meal
A delicious dinner done just right at The Pointe, Omni's onsite restaurant.
A Shopper's Paradise
It's not often anymore that you can walk out the front door of your room and find yourself in the middle of an outdoor mall, but that's what you'll find just a few steps from the front door of the Omni. The Downtown Mall is a shopper's paradise, with independent shops for blocks. Should you grow tired of spending all that money and need to take a rest, there are plenty of eateries along the way offering dining, either indoors, or al fresco. To me, that's just icing on the cake.
nook
This little throwback dates to 1951. I love the mid-century modern windows.

al fresco
The Nook offers dining both inside and outside.

books
The New Dominion Book Shop is one of the oldest businesses located at the Downtown Mall.

buskers
Buskers play for college money.

mall
A view from the second story of a bar overlooking the mall. The Widow's Sons' Masonic Lodge #60 can be seen in this picture. Chartered in 1799, it is one of the oldest Masonic Lodges in Virginia.


amusement ride
A child's carousel dates back to the early 1900s.

couch
A mosaic couch in front of one of the gift shops.

dining
Outdoor dining areas fill up quickly during the evening hours.
dining

One shop that caught my eye was Timberlake's pharmacy and when I saw it was established in 1890, I just had to wander inside to check it out.

drug store
Timberlake Drugs was established in 1890.
drugs
Perfume, pies and pills are just a few of the items available at Timberlake's.
Timberlake's offers solutions for what ails you and more and what woman can resist a stop at a drug store while on vacation? Maybe I'm just weird like that, but there always seems to be something interesting to be found in an out-of-town drugstore. In this case, their selection of merchandise ran the gamut, from pies, to barrettes, shampoo, aspirin and canes. A rather extensive selection of perfume will have you harkening back on quasi-feminist ditties like this one hawking a scent called Enjoli, which, believe it or not, is still around: "She could bring home the bacon, fry it up in a pan, and never, ever, let you forget you're a man...."

Enjoli

Venture further back and you'll see a quaint space that will transport you to an era when soda fountains were prevalent inside pharmacies due to the common practice of mixing soda water with medicine. The one at Timberlake's has withstood the test of time and still draws its fair share of "regulars," who socialize while sipping on made-to-order drinks like egg creams and milkshakes. Proudly displayed on the wall are old newspaper articles that have been penned about the place over the years. In one article, the writer casually mentions customers ordering ammonia cokes up until the 1980s. Later research revealed "spirits of ammonia" was actually added to the coke and the drink was said to alleviate the side effects of a night on the town. Could it be the gentleman in the story knew where to go to nurse a hangover? I guess we'll never know. I do, know, however, that the place holds a soft spot in the heart of many as one of the oldest businesses in Charlottesville.

historic soda fountain
Step inside Timberlake's soda fountain for a BLT, a coke (sans ammonia) and a side of nostalgia.
The Downtown Mall is also home to Charlottesville's Paramount Theater, created by Rapp & Rapp, the architects who were responsible for the Paramount-Publix theater chain. According to reports, the theater became a landmark almost immediately upon opening on Thanksgiving evening in 1931.  In its heyday, audiences who flocked to the venue week after week numbered in the thousands, but with the advent of television, theaters began to lose their attraction. The Paramount managed to maintain a downtown presence until 1974, when it was forced to shut down. Years later it re-opened, thanks to the grit and determination of those who loved the old mainstay. In 1992, the non-profit Paramount Theater, Inc., purchased the building and worked with a grant from the city on an extensive restoration project costing upwards of $16 million. Today it serves the community as a performing arts center.
theater
The Paramount Theatre operated from 1931-1974, then re-opened again in 2004.
popcorn counter
The popcorn counter at The Paramount Theater.

theater entrance
A separate side entrance is a reminder of the days of segregation.
Before we left the downtown area, we decided to dine at a modern-day speakeasy called The Alley Light, which we had trouble finding. After walking up and down the street several times, we enlisted the help of a friendly local, who steered us in the right direction. (Hint: It was through a gate, off the street and appeared to be a private back entrance to a business.)

While we were there we enjoyed a few small plates and creative libations like "Brunch at Becky's" made with Tanqueray, lime, Dolin Blanc and Green Chartreuse. We even spotted a bride and groom from our perch near a window overlooking the street.

speakeasy
Finding the Alley Light is a little difficult--perhaps that's part of the allure?
drink
Brunch at Becky's made with Tanqueray, summer herbs, Dolin Blanc and Green Chartreuse.
The Downtown Mall is a special destination that should be part of any trip to Charlottesville. So what did it take to create the popular area that draws locals and out-of-towners alike? Click on this link to learn about the evolution of the mall and the personalities and pioneers who joined together to make it what it is today.

Visiting Historic Monticello 
statue

Charlottesville is also the location of Monticello, the home of Thomas Jefferson, who is best known as the author of the Declaration of Independence. Jefferson spent decades in politics, serving as governor of Virginia,  minister to France, the first U.S. Secretary of State, the second Vice President, the third President of the United States and the founder of the University of Virginia.

Today Monticello exists as an educational destination operated by the non-profit "Thomas Jefferson Foundation," which acquired the property in 1923.  Approximately 440,000 visitors stroll the grounds each year, generating an estimated $47 million for the local economy.

Guests have the opportunity to choose from docent-led and self-guided tours of the interior and exterior of the property. Tours of the first floor of the 43-room mansion are conducted year round. Behind-the-scene tours are offered less frequently and offer guests a peek at the second and third floors, along with the dome room. Interior photography is prohibited, so I am providing this link for those who are interested in viewing gallery pictures of various rooms inside the mansion.

A tour of the garden and grounds gives guests a glimpse of Jefferson's enthusiasm for gardening, botany and agriculture. Visitors will see a colorful array of flowers and plants from around the world and learn that Jefferson grew approximately 300 varieties of vegetables and 170 varieties of fruits ranging from apples, to peaches and grapes, to name just a few.
gardens
Views of the property.

vista
"As Love Lies Bleeding"
"As Love Lies Bleeding."
vine
Cypress Vine
Also offered year round are 45-minute "Slavery at Monticello" tours, where visitors will learn more about the individuals who worked on the property at the time. An additional tour spanning almost two hours provides guests with in-depth information on the Hemings Family and includes information on Sally Hemings, her relationship to Thomas Jefferson and the struggles endured by slaves of the era. To learn more about "The Paradox of Liberty, Enslaved Families of Monticello," click on this link.

cabin
A servant's house reconstructed to reflect the era between 1790 and 1830.

kitchen
The Cook's Room was occupied by Monticello's head cook.

ice house
The Icehouse was used to store meat and butter and for chilling wine. It was packed with insulated wood chips, or straw.
Thomas Jefferson was also known as an oenophile. While serving in Paris as minister to France, he gleaned quite a bit of knowledge about wine. This later enabled him to act in an advisory capacity to Washington, Madison and Monroe. His cellar contained an impressive selection of wines from Portugal, Spain, Hungary, Germany and Italy. It is said he preferred bottles over casks to ensure the integrity of the wine during the shipping process. It appeared that he was a bit cynical when it came to crewmen, wine merchants and adulteration. (That is, as they say, a whole 'nother story). Thomas Jefferson was known to have said this about his beloved beverage. "My measure is a perfectly sober three or four glasses at dinner and not a drop at  any other time, but as to those three or four glasses,'Je Suis bienfriand,'" which, translated, means, "I am very fond."


wine
Jefferson's wine cellar included an impressive selection of European wines. 

casks
Jefferson preferred bottles over casks to ensure their integrity during shipping.
Before leaving the property, be sure to take the path to Jefferson's Grave and the graveyard owned by Thomas Jefferson's descendants.
gate


graveyard
The Monticello Graveyard.
graveyard
A list of individuals who are buried at the Graveyard
monument
Jefferson's monument.

As a result of Jefferson's meticulous record keeping, Monticello is known as one of the best-documented, preserved and studied plantations in North America.  To learn more about this designated World Heritage Site, or to schedule a tour, visit the website at monticello.org.

Michie Tavern Area

sign


Next to Monticello is the historic Michie Tavern, which was established in 1784 by Scotsman William Michie and served as the social center of the community until the mid-1800s when it became a private home and was sold out of the Michie family at an estate auction. In 1927, the abode was purchased by an entrepreneur by the name of Mrs. Mark Henderson. Henderson worked as a partner in her husband's shirt-manufacturing business and decided to move the structure to a more accessible and popular area. The home was dismantled, numbered and moved 17 miles by horse, wagon and truck and today it still draws visitors as a museum that tells a tale of 18-century tavern life.

museum
The outside of the Michie Tavern.
room
Interior rooms at the Michie Tavern.
bedroom

colonial kitchen
Kitchen at the Michie Tavern.
Old Game of Life
A game of Human Life that I found particularly fascinating. If you zoom in, you'll see various individuals like the Hasty Man, the Brute, the Learned Man, etc. I suppose if you embark upon the righteous path, you stand a better chance of winning?
In the 1970s, The Michie Tavern Corporation added additional old outbuildings and today the complex is known as the largest collection of reassembled outbuildings in the country.
"The Ordinary," situated next to the Tavern, serves a buffet lunch year round and is quite popular as you can see by the long line, which is often the case, according to our tour guide. "They serve some delicious fried chicken," she said. The Michie Tavern's Bill of Fare for that particular day was southern fried chicken, cornbread, black-eyed peas, stewed tomatoes, cole slaw, beets, green beans with country ham and peach cobbler.
restaurant
After lunch, many guests take the opportunity to visit the four unique themed shops housed in old, restored cabins.
shoppe
gift shop
The Metal Smith Shop is housed in a cabin that dates back to 1822 and was once located just six miles south of where it stands today. 

mill
Remnants of the Old Mill at the Meadow Run Mill and General Store.
jelly
Jellies are just some of the products sold at the Meadow Run Mill and General Store.
General Store
The General Store is housed in a Grist Mill dating back to 1797 and offers Virginia-made wines, beer and cider, along with candles, jellies, spreads, gifts and more.


These are just a few highlights of my summer trip to Charlottesville. I understand there is so much more to do and see, from winery tours, to James Monroe's Highland, to hop on/off tours, which I always seem to enjoy.  I haven't even mentioned the world famous and historic University of Virginia and the much-touted  "Corner," which is located on campus and is comprised of an array of shops and restaurants. When I return next year, I'll be sure to provide an update.

Art, Architecture, History and More in Fun Frederick Maryland

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spires
The clustered spires of Frederick.

This has been a very wet summer--I believe the wettest on record in our area, so I have been squeezing in activities while I can.

A few weeks ago, I decided to spend two nights in Frederick, Maryland, Frederick is a great walking city with plenty of independent shops, restaurants, an impressive art walk and the fascinating Civil War Museum of Medicine.

I was disappointed to miss out on a ghost tour due to a deluge, but I realize these are small problems compared to the rest of the country and was thankful that it only rained for a few hours one evening.

Luckily, I was able to swap out the ghost tour with a food tour before I left the following day. Tours, no matter what their theme, are always informative and local tour guides are happy to answer any questions that might pop up during the walk.

First Stop: The Frederick Visitors' Center
Although obvious, it sometimes bears repeating that the Visitors' Center should be your first stop for event schedules, brochures describing activities and maps to learn the lay of the land.

The Frederick Visitors' Center is located at 151 S. East Street, Frederick in a renovated warehouse that dates back to 1899. It is open seven days a week from 9 to 5 p.m. and touts 2,200 square feet of interpretive exhibits, along with a state-of-the-art theater that features a film about the area. Helpful Visitors' Services Specialists are always on duty to answer any questions.  They also validate parking, which is free for three hours at any of the area's five garages.

The Public Art Trail
What initially attracted me to the area was the Public Art Trail, which is in walking distance of the Visitors' Center. It did not disappoint

The first stop on the trail is The Delaplaine Arts Center located at 40 S. Carroll Street.
gallery
Bin Feng, a Shanghai-born artist displays his photos in "The American Dream" installation.
 art
The free museum operates as a non-profit and is housed in a re-purposed mill that dates back more than a century. Their tagline: "Everyone Deserves Art," and it is provided abundantly with three floors of rotating exhibits featuring regional and national artists. During our visit, we experienced the thought-provoking work of Bin Feng, whose installation titled, "The American Dream" evokes the isolation he feels as a Shanghai-born artist living in America. His large-scale photographs possess a dream-like quality and he often appears in them as a dispassionate outsider.

Seven galleries of exhibits change monthly, so there is almost always something new to see.
A sculpture garden out back features contemporary art sculptures among the blooms.
sculpture garden
A sculpture garden is located behind the Delaplaine Arts Center.
art center
The Delaplaine Arts Center offers art classes, workshops and seven galleries of rotating artwork.
Located not far from the garden is the Iron Bridge traversing Carroll Creek Park. Created by David David Chikvashvili and Nikolai Pakhomov of Iron Masters, it highlights some of nature's wonders that can be seen in the area.
bridge
The hand-forged iron and steel bridge that crosses Carroll Creek.
bridge

Nearby is the spectacular trompe l'oeil mural, which was conceived and executed by Frederick artist William Cochran in 1993. He and his assistants used permanent silicate paints to create the expansive work on all six walls of the Community Bridge.
trompe l'oeil
"The Forgotten Song."

Trompe l'oeil
Tour guides have noticed birds trying to land on "The Unfound Door."

trompe l'oeil
"The Woman of Samaria."

archangel
"Archangel" depicts a painting technique called "anamorphic projection" a technique invented by Leonardo da Vinci where the image appears different at various angles. The painting's message? "Where we stand, determines what we see."

art
Hands holding the earth.

art
art

The artist's concept was met with quite a bit of controversy at first. It took years before the city was given the green light to go ahead and within a period of five years, the painting of the bridge was completed. The award-winning work of art is described as one that  "speaks with a communal voice." You can learn more about this impressive project by clicking on the video below.


More art awaits on the Stone-Arch Bridge crossing the Carroll Creek where zodiac-themed sculptures are installed on both sides. This is another work created by Nikolai Pakhomov, with the message that time, universe and humanity are connected.
zodiac art
Zodiac Sculptures
statue
This statue is situated in front of the library and was created by George Lundeen. It depicts two children gazing over the shoulder of an adult as he reads the lyrics of the Star-Spangled Banner.
Nature's art plays a part as well, with plants that bloom in the creek that flows through the middle of the park. I believe I may have just missed a spectacular show, but you can see that a few plants were still blooming when I visited in early September. We spotted a few ducks as well.
trompe l'oeil
The bottom one is real.
mallard

Among the 4,000 plants are lilies, lotuses, water irises, reeds and cattail. You can see additional pictures and learn more about "Color on the Creek"here.


lotus
bloom
lotus


Additional works of art continue on buildings located downtown, like this depiction of The Frederick News-Post.
newspaper mural
Frederick News-Post mural
And no, the picture below isn't some 80's rocker belting out "Eye of the Tiger." The mural, also done by Cochran, is named "Edge of Gravity," and depicts a young man from 1745. The red, white and blue colors are to intended to evoke a 250-year-old dream of liberty, equality and inclusion.
levitating man mural
The Edge of Gravity.

Further along the way at 108 Church Street is "Guess," the Greyhound sculpture. Lore has it that the dog was named by the impish little girls who lived in the building after the Civil War, who, when asked their dog's name, would reply "Guess."
Greyhound sculpture
Guess, the dog statue is located at 108 W. Church Street
Along the same vein is this sculpture, a Newfoundland known as "Charity Dog," named for the work of the non-profit Federated Charities housed in this building at 22 S. Market Street.
charity dog
"Charity Dog" is located at 22 S. Market Street.
The last piece two pieces of art I'll share with you were painted by Cochran as part of his "Angels in the Architecture" series. 
trompe l'oeil
aging angel mural
The top painting is called"Egress," and is located at Second and Market. The second painting, also created by Cochran, is named "Earthbound" and depicts an aging angel overlooking the city.


Historical Sites

The National Museum of Civil War Medicine
It's easy to think we have it bad when it comes to pain and various ailments our society contends with, so sometimes a trip back in history is necessary to kick us in the pants and remind us of how blessed we are.

The National Museum of Civil War Medicine, which spans two floors, is both interesting and informative. Placards, dioramas and exhibits transport visitors to the Civil War time period and the rapidly evolving world of medicine.
ether
A patient is sedated with ether.
According to Jake Wynn, Educational Programming Coordinator at the museum, the war took place in an interesting time when the Industrial Revolution was just underway. "Engineering, science and a whole host of other fields were just beginning to enter into their modern forms," he said, adding that many of the lessons learned on the battlefield were brought back to civilian life. Specialization emerged from the Civil War, from plastic surgery for treating disfiguring facial injuries, to dental surgery that came with the rebuilding of jaws and neurologists who specialized in treating head injuries.  Fun fact:  Half of the early brain surgeries performed by Civil War era doctors were successful!

Additional innovations that emerged during that period as a direct result of the war was the practice of embalming, females' roles in nursing, and the ambulance system.
Civil War Exhibit
A doctor peers into his medicine chest.
Our informative guide, John Lustrea, led us through the museum to provide us with an overview and answer our questions. There was quite a bit to read along the way, so I think I'll return at some point to delve deeper into more details. I appreciated seeing the Clara Barton exhibit and learning more about her as well. Not only did she found the Red Cross, but she was also instrumental in what would today be described as a crowd-sourcing effort to help connect soldiers' remains with the families seeking them.
Clara Barton artifact
Clara Barton's trunk bed.
Guests can also spend time reading about how various ailments were treated. One exhibit was dedicated to the treatment of  STDs which, I was told, were not uncommon during the period.

There is much to see, read and digest in this captivating museum, which provides insight into this sad, yet fascinating, pivotal point in our history.

The Museum of Frederick County History
The Museum of Frederick County History was once an orphanage and a private home.

The Museum of Frederick County History located at 24 E. Church Street, once served as an orphanage and private residence. It is now listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The museum is open to the public from Wednesday through Sunday and a changing selection of exhibits tells the story of Frederick County from Colonial Times to the present day.
room
An interior room of the Museum of Frederick County History.
staircase
Two floors of exhibits share details on Frederick County and its impact on the nation.
history


Signature events include walking and architectural tours. To learn more, consult their website for dates and times.

Before we left, we couldn't resist purchasing "The Diary of Jacob Englebrecht." Jacob served as mayor from 1865 to 1868 and began recording his day-to-day life when he turned 20. He continued to journal on a daily basis for 60 years. I might also add that it was quite the bargain at $25 for both tomes.
Englebrecht
Jacob Englebrecht documents his life over a period of 60 years.
Englebrecht

historical society
A children's room encourages interactive play for budding historians.











Visiting the Monocacy Battlefield
The Monocacy Battlefield  serves as a memorial of the battle fought between the Union and Confederate armies on July 9, 1964. 
Monocacy
The Monocacy National Battlefield Visitors' Center
Each year approximately more than 43,000 tourists visit the area to learn more about the Battle of Monocacy, where Union troops staved off an effort to take Washington, D.C. 

The Visitors' Center, located at 5201 Urbana Drive, is open daily from 9 to 5 p.m. and should be the first stop on your visit. There you can pick up maps and learn more before touring the fields. The two-story center opened to the public in 2007. The first floor contains a welcome area and gift shop and the second floor features interactive exhibits to help shed light on the soldiers, citizens and families who were affected by the battle. 

Guests can learn more about the battle through a self-guided automobile tour, which features five stops spanning six miles. Those who prefer to tour the area on foot can traverse six miles of designated walking trails.
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Cannons seen from the balcony of the visitors' center.
Monocacy visitors' center
Learn about the Battle of Monocacy at the Visitors' Center.
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A view of the battlefield from the balcony with interpretive signage.

Standing on the battlefield, it's difficult to imagine that the peaceful setting along the Monocacy River was once the site of a fierce and bloody battle to the death. This destination, run by the National Park Service, provides the public with the finer details of a fight that doesn't seem to get all much attention, yet is credited for saving Washington, D.C. 

Sippity-Do-Da
brewery

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The exterior of the Flying Dog Brewery on a cloudy day.
Frederick is home to its fair share of breweries and choosing just one was difficult. In the end, we decided to take a drive out to Wedgewood Boulevard to check out the place that could be described as one of the pioneers in the area's craft brewing industry. Flying Dog Brewery was founded in 1990 in Colorado and expanded into Maryland in 2006. Today it is the largest craft brewery in Maryland and the 28th largest in the United States.

Guests can sign up for free tours held Thursday through Sunday. Cards are available listing a number of flights available for tasting and guests can simply mark which ones they'd like to try. The night we visited, the place was hopping (pardon the pun). The tasting room was standing room only, so many patrons wandered outside with their refreshing libations to relax and socialize at the picnic tables, or stare at their phones. (Gotta stay real here.) A few patrons engaged in a friendly game of cornhole, while others lined up at the food truck on site.
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Flying Dog's busy tasting room.

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Guests relax at tables out front.

Dining and Shopping in Frederick

Frederick is home to scores of independent boutiques and eateries and a few large-scale antique stores. We actually got lost in Emporium Antiques as we strolled through the maze of rooms.
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Emporium Antiques features scores of vendors.
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Interesting decor items at Industrial Home Inc.
On the last day of our visit, we decided to learn more about the city and its food offerings by taking a "Taste Frederick"food tour. We met our guide and about 10 other friendly folks for a three-hour tour that took us through the town and into various eating establishments. Our first visit at Pretzel & Pizza Creations started with what was billed as a "turkey Reuben calzone," something I wouldn't have ordered, but ended up liking quite a bit. Other stops included Firestone's Market on Market located beside the restaurant we had visited the night before There we enjoyed a pastrami sandwich. "People come from miles around for these," said our guide.
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Firestone's Restaurant
As we walked the streets, we learned stories of Frederick and its architecture, including interesting information about sisters that used to live in this mansion where top-chef alumni Brian Voltaggio operates a popular restaurant by the name of Volt.
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Volt is located at 228 North Market Street.
On the tour, we sampled craft beer at Brewer's Alley, which has an interesting story that dates back to the 1700s. If that piques your attention, I've provided the link here.
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Brewer's Alley is located at 124 N. Market Street.

We also took a stroll along the picturesque Carroll Creek to The Wine Kitchen on the Creek where we indulged in fried green tomatoes, wine and homemade cinnamon buns.
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Shops and restaurants along Carroll Creek.

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Inside The Wine Kitchen on the Creek.
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Our last two shops included the North Market Pop Shop, which offers 400 types of soda, some with unusual names like "Always Ask for Avery's Totally Gross Dog Drool."  I am glad we weren't offered that flavor.

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The North Market Pop Shop offers 400 types of soda.

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The last stop on our tour was Zoe's Chocolate Co. where we enjoyed a truffle sampling. Zoe's is a third-generation chocolate company that started in Waynesboro, Pennsylvania and expanded into Frederick. You can learn more about their story here.

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Our engaging and knowledgeable guide prepares the chocolates for serving.
Well, that's more than I intended to write for this blog. Hard to believe I spent less than three days in Frederick. Perhaps this will be an enticement to set up your own visit to the area. One thing's for sure--you won't run out of things to do.
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