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A Visit to the National Shrine of Our Lady of Czestochowa

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A trip to Doylestown this weekend took me the National Shrine of Our Lady of Czestochowa. I visited Doylestown, Pennsylvania last year and lacked the time to visit the destination that interested me due to my Polish/Ukrainian background.

As I learn more details about the shrine, I will likely take the time to write about it on this blog. 

In the meantime, I will just direct you to the many pictures I took, which can be found at the facebook site here.





Discover Art, Antiques, Shops and More in "Quirky" Lambertville

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Nestled along the banks of the Delaware River is the scenic city of Lambertville, New Jersey. Despite being named by Forbes as "one of the prettiest small towns in America,"it's often overlooked by vacationers who are dazzled  by the neighboring artisan enclave of New Hope, Pennsylvania, which is located just across the the bridge.

Founded in 1705, the gem of a town offers practically everything New Hope touts, from boutique shops, to art galleries and restaurants. Comparing the two, I'd describe Lambertville as "less hippy, more relaxed." I'd be remiss if I failed to mention that it's also quieter. The motorcyclists have yet to figure out that there are cool places just right across the bridge and I'd like to keep it that way. And before anyone casts aspersions on my age due to that remark, I have only one thing to say: "Get off my lawn!"

But as I was saying, there are many reasons to visit Lambertville, not the least of which is its uniqueness. In addition to being named one of the prettiest small towns in 2013, the area was also ranked one of the five "quirkiest" towns--a distinction bestowed in 2014 by Travel & Leisure magazine.

Finding Your Way Around
Visitors will encounter old and interesting sites while strolling around town. As a first order of business Melanie Tucker, owner of "Rare Finds Travel," recommends scheduling a free walking tour hosted by the Lambertville Historical Society.

Presbyterian Cemetery spotted along the street. Holcombe and Coryell monuments.

Finkle's Hardware Store--serving Lambertville since 1917.


"On the tour, visitors will see things like the Cowin Stone mansion built by the mayor of Lambertville and the owner of Stoneworks.  He engaged Italian stone makers to hand cut each stone on site. Guests will also learn about another homeowner who operated a spoke factory and went on to become wealthy due to the Civil War," said Tucker, adding, "Lambertville provided many of the spokes that were affixed to the caissons that carried the cannons for the Union Army."

The hour-long tours start at 2:00 p.m. and are offered on the first Sunday of the month from April through November. Learn more here.

Galleries Galore
Lambertville is known for its collection of art, a reputation that has continued for over a century when an artist colony was formed there. Behold the bold, colorful paintings of artist Tony La Salle at his gallery at the corner of Bridge and Main, discover unique pieces at The River Queen Artisans' Gallery on Church, or set aside some time to stroll through Jim's of Lambertville to view a remarkable collection of impressionist paintings.

If you're a fan of old, re-purposed buildings, you'll also enjoy A Mano Galleries, where you'll find a variety of artwork, including one-of-a-kind gifts and sculptures like the one shown below.

A Mano Galleries

Sculpture at A Mano


"The Antique Capital of New Jersey"
Also known as the "antique capital of New Jersey," Lambertville is home to myriad antique shops, including The People's Store. Those who are passionate about all things old can get lost in the four-story building which dates back to 1835. Treasure hunters will enjoy inspecting every nook and cranny of the place which houses a collection of items from scores of dealers. Among the eclectic array you'll find furnishings, art, period clothing, jewelry and more.

Sign at The People's Store

The Dining Scene
Restaurants are plentiful and appeal to a variety of tastes. Jump start your morning with a great cuppa Jo at Rojo's Roastery, a business which specializes in roasting beans procured from small farms across the globe.

For an indulgent lunch, step inside an old train station and enjoy American cuisine at the Lambertville Station Restaurant. Situated along the banks of the Delaware, the eatery offers scenic views and a menu to suit a variety of tastes.

Those who prefer to "grab and go" can enjoy the signature Italian Roast Pork served at DiNapoli's restaurant on Kline's court. You may recognize the name from the Reading Terminal Market where they've been a fixture for years.

For dinner, I can't say enough about Anton's at the Swan, which marries old-school atmosphere with upscale dining.

Swan Creek near Anton's at the Swan

Hubby at Anton's at the Swan


Filet of beef at Anton's at the Swan


The low-lit and elegantly appointed dining room make it a perfect place to take your date. When we visited, quite a few couples were enjoying the romantic atmosphere. The farm-to-table cuisine is handled expertly by Chef Chris Connors and the menu changes seasonally. Current selections include New York Strip, chicken breast, pan-roasted duck, filet of beef and red snapper, to name a few. My filet was done to perfection and my husband thoroughly enjoyed his duck as well.

Stay in the Heart of Downtown
For convenience, we chose to stay at the Lambertville House . Built by Captain John Lambert in 1812, the business initially operated as Lambert's Inn--a stagecoach stop that provided lodging for U.S. presidents, including Andrew Johnson and Ulysses S. Grant. The Inn also offered respite for visiting dignitaries and business leaders who traveled the main thoroughfare from New York to Philadelphia.

The historic hotel has been awarded the AAA Award of Excellence for the past 15 years and each room contains a fireplace, robes and jetted tubs. The only complaint we had during our visit is that we were forced to park off the property during part of our stay due to a corporate event. Parking is extremely limited,so be sure to query in advance.

The Lambertville House


These are just a few of my suggestions for an enjoyable stay in Lambertville and now is a great time of year to visit the laid-back little town that seems to offer a little something for everyone. 

Learning about the Life of My Coal-Mining Great-Grandfather on a Visit to Scranton, Pa

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I remember little about my great-grandfather Ignatz Kalina. I have but one picture of him--a fading black-and-white photo of the two of us, sitting together on a couch, in what, I assume, is his living room in Taylor, Pennsylvania. A word to the young: Question your relatives and embrace curiosity because one day you may cherish that information and it may not be at your fingertips.

A few years ago I took the time to do some research on the internet about  "Pop" Kalina and found a miner's certificate from Moffat Coal. To this day I can't seem to locate it, so any recommendations on how to find it would be greatly appreciated.


Through the Pennsylvania Historical and Museum Commission (PHMC), I did find his name on a list of mining accidents. While working as a trackman's helper in his '40s, he was struck in the jaw when a bar slipped. Evidently, he advanced in his profession to become a full-fledged miner, certified to work with explosives only later in life.  "Pop" Kalina, who arrived in this country with his bride Paulina, (yes, I got a laugh out of the fact that her first and last name rhyme, in the "Americanized" pronunciation), lived to be 86 years old. The man who toiled in the damp, dark, recesses of the earth for many years, was, by accounts, hale and hearty (as they would say in the old days), and managed to escape the perils of black lung--a condition that struck down so many of those who worked in his profession.
coal miner
Me and "Pop" Back in the Day

When an editor asked me to visit the Scranton region for an upcoming article, I decided to take advantage of the opportunity to learn more about Ignatz and what it was like to live the life of a coal miner. 


The first stop on my path to discovery was Eckley Miners' Village. This fine example of a typical coal "patch town" tells a story of how the miners lived when coal was king. Located a bit off the beaten path in Weatherly, Pennsylvania, the "ghost town" is now maintained by the PHMC as a historical site dedicated to educating the public about coal-mining life. 

There my husband and I viewed a short film as told through the eyes of a coal miner. Afterward, we strolled around the small museum, which gave us insight into each job performed by those who worked in the mines, from the nippers to the breaker boys and the miners themselves.
nipper
breaker boy

Young boys were forced to grow up early in the mining community. There were no "pajama boys," whining about their plight way back when. These pictures of haunted faces are telling and should shame those who have it so much better.



Those who thought mining paid well for the era might be interested to know that many were forced to shop at the "company store" for goods sold at elevated prices. Suddenly the old Tennessee Ernie Ford song seemed to make sense. 

The exhibits portrayed the day-to-day existence of the miner and his family, describing seasonal duties and painting a portrait of a hardscrabble life. Being married to a miner couldn't have been easy, with common stories like the one associated with the picture below. At least the wives were encouraged to think "good thoughts" when they cobbled together a family dinner. (Note the stove brand.)
corpse carrier
"Good thoughts" stove
Outside, visitors can stroll the Eckley area with a docent, or drive through the village. The planned community was arranged by social status from east to west. Miners and their families lived on the east side in double homes and engineers lived farther west in single-family homes. The mine owner resided farthest west at the opposite end of town. 
ghostown
church
coal mining village
Molly McGuires prop
Pic. 1: Main Street in Eckley
Pic. 2: Presbyterian Church circa 1854
Pic. 3: Double Home in which coal miners raised their families
Pic. 4: A 1968 re-creation of a Breaker which stood near the site of one of the three original breakers. 

In 1970, Hollywood came calling and a cast and crew arrived in Weatherly to film "The Molly Maguires," a gritty movie based on a true story about Irish coal miners and corporate exploitation.The visit to Eckley was insightful and I was ready to learn more at the Lackawanna County Coal mine where my great-grandfather used to work as an employee of Moffat Coal. I can't help but admit it was a bit of a thrill to walk the same path he walked oh so many years ago. Tours are offered between April 1 and November 1 and are conducted frequently throughout the day.

After we parked in the ample lot, we walked a few minutes to the main center where staff provided us with tickets, a hair net and a hard hat. We were then invited to watch a short film about coal mining and browse the small gift shop while waiting the call for the tour to start.


When it was our turn, we joined about 25 others and piled into a bright yellow car to make our descent into the mine. I have to say I had a few butterflies plunging slowly down that deep hill into darkness, but hey, I'm supposedly built of good stock, so I stuffed that down and sucked it up. When we arrived at the bottom and were permitted to exit the car, I breathed a sigh of relief.

Our descent into the mine
Our guide led us through the mine, describing various duties performed by the workers. We learned that in 1902, the certified rates paid for laborers were 18 cents an hour and breaker boys earned 13 cents--the same as mule drivers. Engineers made $78 a month and nippers were paid the least at 11 cents an hour, likely due to their young age.

We also learned that mine workers had to always be on guard, especially for electrocution hazards. Our guide relayed a story about a mule whose ear touched a wire and he was struck dead on the spot, landing on the damp ground with a sickening thud. Perhaps this is why earwear like this was eventually employed. This picture of a mule hate was taken at the Anthracite Heritage Museum. 

A mule hat to protect the mules from being accidentally electrocuted
As we made our way through the mine, we peered into the bosses office carved from earth  and looking rather, shall we say, rustic? I still imagine "Pop" Kalina peering in and waving a friendly hello here and there.
A miner and his mule
At the end of the tour, we were all given a "mining certificate," earned by doing little but observing how those who were ready, willing and able to contribute to the fabric and success of America by assimilation, grit, hard work and determination. I left feeling thankful and a deep debt of gratitude to those who came before--for their intestinal fortitude, pride and their work ethic and am very proud to count my great-grandfather among that group of fine men.



"American Treasure Tour" Delights Guests with Extensive Collection of Americana

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Tucked away in a nondescript warehouse in Montgomery County not far from the Valley Forge National Historical Park is an extensive collection of Americana that has been delighting visitors since opening in 2010.


The unique assemblage of antiques, kitsch and pop art housed in an old B.F. Goodrich tire plant, spans 100,000 square feet and is owned by a mysterious man who eschews the limelight. "He prefers to remain anonymous to allow the collection to take the spotlight," said Treasure Tour Director Virginia Frey.  

Although the collection itself is whimsical, viewing it on a whim is not. Groups are favored, so a bit of pre-planning may be required in order to take the 90-minute tour. With that in mind, I suggest reaching out to others who may be similarly intrigued, like social meetup groups, for instance.

Music Collection Strikes a High Note with Visitors
Guides greet guests at the front door of the warehouse and lead them up a set of stairs to an expansive room containing one of the largest collections of mechanical music machines in the world.  
Music Machines Galore



The "Encore Automatic Banjo" dates back to 1897


The Double Violano-Virtuoso made by the Mills Novelty Company

Player Piano with rare drum attachment
Nickelodeons, calliopes, PianOrchestras, player pianos, dancehall organs and massive band hall organs all spring to life via a modern-day iPad operated by a tour guide. Colorful lights blinking in time with the music may conjure up an image of great-grandparents enjoying themselves at an amusement park or dance hall so many years ago.

Many guests express amazement at the pristine condition of the machines. The oldest of them, deemed the "Mills Violano-Virtuoso Double Violin," dates back to 1897 and is a beautiful piece of equipment. Those rich enough to part with five cents back then could observe the two violins playing a tune, with the assistance of small, electric-powered rollers manipulating the strings. The impressive invention struck quite a chord in the music world and was named one of the "Eight Great Inventions of the Decade," by the United States Patent Office. It was was just one of the curiosities displayed at the World's Fair in Seattle in 1909.

A two-tiered arranger's piano like the one below is on display and was owned by J. Lawrence Cook, one of the most prolific piano roll artists in history. The instrument was used to compose approximately 20,000 recordings. 

A hulking piece of equipment will undoubtedly intrigue movie buffs. Guests can sit at the 2,500-pound machine and manipulate the piano-like pedals to produce up to 35 sounds like horns, bird tweets, train whistles and more. Only 100 of the rarities still survive and a dozen of them are owned by the mysterious collector.

A music collection would be incomplete without a selection of music boxes. Before being whisked off on a tram to the second half of the tour, guests are permitted to inspect a collection on loan from the International Music Box Society. The machines, which play through the use of punched paper, punched disks and pinned cylinders, predate electrically amplified music and the selection comes from various parts of the world.The one directly below hails from Bavaria. 






Riding the Tram
During the second half of the tour, guests are whisked hither and yon through the warehouse, hardly knowing where to look first--up, down, side to side? Blink and you'll miss something. 

Car aficionados will enjoy the diverse selection of automobiles, ranging from the 1905 Franklin, to the 1905 Curved-Dash Oldsmobile, a 1914 Woods Mobilette, a 1914 Liberty Brush with wooden axles and a 1922 Stanley Steamer. And guests can only guess where the collector acquired the 1934 Buick, complete with bullet hole and suicide doors.

A 1908 Sears Motorbuggy is interesting in that it was ordered via the famous "Sears Catalog" for $395 and arrived at customers' homes unassembled. A 1929 "Whippet" on display is a precursor to the modern-day Jeep and a 1909 ABC is one of only three known to exist. Early ads I discovered described the car as a "fine hill climber with speeds up to 35 miles per hour. Air or water cooled, with solid, or pneumatic tires." I also found this interesting video on how the Stanley Steemer operates at this link.

A 1917 Model T Huckster
The tram continues with a journey through the "toy box," revealing a jaw-dropping selection of old store "animatons," which come to life as the tram rolls down the aisles. A life-sized Steiff elephant waves its ears and clowns entertain the crowd around with jumps, flips and rolls. Carnival memorabilia, including calliopes and carousels activated by the guide, add to the festive atmosphere on this half of the tour. 



It's hard to believe that only half of the collection is on display. The other half is currently in storage, according to Frey. "We are always adding new things to the collection so that people feel like it's a different tour each time they visit," she said.

An extensively decorated dollhouse is just one of the curiosities in the "toy box"

Modern-day pieces also made their way into the collection. Whether it's a fiberglass cow by the name of Cowlamity Jane, a 20-foot-tall high-heeled pump from a since-cancelled cable show called "Wedding Central," a five-foot tall head of Albert Einstein, or a miniature tableau of pop icons made with found objects--one thing's for sure--it all seems to fit within the wacky and whimsical world within the warehouse.

To learn more, visit their website at http://americantreasuretour.com//




Harrisburg's Historic Fort Hunter Tells a Story of Days of Yore

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Susquehanna River view
A view of the Susquehanna from the Mansion grounds.
Every mansion tells a story and much can be learned from those who work diligently to keep history alive, from volunteer docents, to historical societies around the country.

The Fort Hunter Mansion, nestled along the banks of the Susquehanna River just six miles north of Pennsylvania's capital, tells a tale of the region's past and the story of a woman by the name of Margaret Meigs who led the charge to preserve it.

Thanks to Meigs' efforts, people from miles around travel to Fort Hunter to learn more about the area settled in 1725. Named "Hunters Mill," after Samuel Hunter, a pioneer who owned a grist mill in the area, the settlement thrived for years until the French and Indian War threatened its existence. To protect the area, the British built a series of forts stretching from Harrisburg to Sunbury. "Fort Hunter," as it came to be known, was built in a bend along the river in 1756 and served as a supply depot and alarm station.
mansion
The Mansion at Fort Hunter

In the spring of 1787, Archibald McAlister of Londonderry Township, purchased the property from John and Mary Garber and turned it into a thriving frontier village. McAlister's many business pursuits included distilling and selling alcoholic beverages in cities like Philadelphia. Upon Archibald's passing, his son John took over the property. John served as the first captain of the Dauphin County Cavalry and played a prominent role in the building of the Pennsylvania Canal.

In 1870, Daniel Dick Boas of Harrisburg assumed ownership of the property. Boas owned a lumberyard in Shipoke and served as President of the Harrisburg School Board for 18 years. Boas School on Sixth Street in the city was named after the civic-minded individual who met an untimely death in a carriage accident at age 62. The property received little TLC until Boas' daughter Helen married John Whitehill Reily and the couple moved in to begin married life in the stately mansion that overlooked the river. It remained in the family for years until a niece by the name of Margaret Meigs decided to turn the property into a museum by creating a foundation to preserve its history after the death of her Aunt Helen and Uncle John.

Meigs, a woman of means, raised her own family in a five-story townhouse on M Street in Washington, D.C., which was once the resident of Alice Longworth, Theodore Roosevelt's eldest daughter. Energetic and generous of her time, Meigs served on the board of trustees for the Sidwell Friends School, was a founder and president of the Women's National Democratic Club and served on numerous other boards as well. Her husband, Edward, worked as a physiologist with the Bureau of Dairy Industry in the federal Department of Agriculture.

When Aunt Helen and Uncle John Reily passed, Margaret inherited part of the Fort Hunter property. Meigs, who enjoyed spending time with them on picnics and outings on the property, wanted to do something special with the property due to her sentimental attachment to the area. She approached her cousins with an idea and on April 20, 1933, it opened to the public as a museum.

The first directors of the foundation were Margaret, her four children, her sister's daughter and prominent Harrisburg attorney Spencer G. Hall. The mission of the foundation was to operate Fort Hunter as a "living history museum" to represent a comfortable high/middle-class home of the late 18th and 19th centuries. Author Carl A. Dickson, who wrote, "Fort Hunter Mansion and Park, a Guide, said, "In opening the museum, Margaret had the opportunity to experiment in the creation of historical period rooms, using the many raw ingredients existing in the house from the various Reily and Meigs homes. Because of the overwhelming number of items from the second half of the nineteenth century, she decided that the interiors of the mansion would reflect the early Victorian period."

According to Dickson, Meigs quickly became an 'evangelist' for the museum, taking on speaking engagements to share the history with others. She hired photographers for stills and postcards of the attractive property and developed slogans to spread the word. Two of the most oft-used slogans were: "Fort Hunter: Where the Blue Mountains Cross the Susquehanna," and "Fort Hunter: Where Godey's Ladey's Book Comes to Life." (Learn more about "Godey's Lady's Book here.)
Fashion magazine

Meigs' trips from Washington, D.C. eventually became fewer and fewer as she grew older and in 1958, she died in her home on M Street. On "Fort Hunter Day" in 1960, her children placed a memorial on the property--a birdbath constructed of handmade tiles and bricks from her demolished Washington home.
Memorial
Memorial to Meigs placed at Fort Hunter by her children
Through a series of twists and turns too numerous to mention here, Dauphin County took control of the property in 1980 when 38 acres, the buildings, the endowment fund and their contents were transferred from the Fort Hunter Foundation. The county still strives to maintain the property's historical integrity as Meigs intended.

Today mansion guests are invited to view a short film on the history of the area before being escorted through the Federal style mansion where they can view many original furnishings depicting life during a simpler era.
mansion rooms
Visitors will view a short film here before proceeding through the rest of the house.
Parlor in the Fort Hunter Mansion--Note the picture back in the era when boys were pink dresses and girls wore blue.





Master Bedroom with bathing basin near the fireplace.

Outdoor kitchen
Outside kitchen and antique implements like the cabbage shredder pictured below.
A walking tour of the grounds offers magnificent views of the Susquehanna and a centuries-old Buttonwood Tree towers over the property. An old ice house located behind the mansion was built in 1814 and an impressive Centennial Barn built in 1876 and once used for a dairy operation, is located directly across the street. Also present on the property is the Spring House built around the year 1800 and a Tavern House thought to be the oldest structure on the property.
barn
The Centennial Barn

tavern
The Tavern
Covered Bridge
A Perry County covered bridge Meigs saved from demolition.


The self-guided grounds tour is free and the 45-minute mansion tour costs $5. "It makes for a nice little outing without having to spend a lot of money," said Park Manager, Julia Hair.

Upcoming events:
From 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. from September 7 through September 30, the Pennsylvania State Historic and Museum Commission will be conducting an archeological expedition. This is the 10th year for the free event where state archeologists search for artifacts dating back to the 1700s, as well as objects from prehistoric Indians. Members of the public are invited to observe.

From September 11 to September 13, Dauphin County will host its annual Jazz & Wine fest on the grounds of Fort Hunter Park from 4 to 9 p.m. each evening and on September 18, the annual free autumn festival will take place from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. On tap: a craft show, children's activities, exhibits, music and more. 

Additional upcoming events can be seen here





Ghost Adventures in Maryland and Pennsylvania

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I've always enjoyed ghost tours. Last October I actually joined our "Social Travel" meetup group on a "party bus" trip to Gettysburg and I must say it was interesting for the party alone. One of my crafty fellow travelers brought bags of items onboard and made her costume on the way to the destination. When we arrived she was all "decked" out as a Christmas Tree--lights and all!

Because I boarded last, I was relegated to sitting in the rear on a bean bag chair in the renovated school bus where the ride was particularly bumpy. From my bag of tricks I pulled a corkscrew and a wineglass. I attracted a fair amount of attention as they watched me go to work. I must admit I was pretty proud of myself when I failed to spill a single drop and the feat seemed to impress my fellow tipsy travelers as well.

These past few trips were a little more subdued, but I must admit I captured a few interesting pictures in Maryland. Were they ghosts? You can view the photos and decide for yourself.

Gettysburg's Haunted Orphanage
Located at 777 Baltimore Street is the headquarters for the Ghostly Images of Gettysburg tours, where a docent guided me on a tour of the adjoining Civil War orphanage to recount the story of an honorable effort that turned tragic.

The story began with a Union soldier who was found dead on the battlefield, clutching a ferrotype of his three small children. In an effort to locate his family, newspapers around the nation ran with the story and the word spread. After about four months the widow stepped forward and the dead soldier was revealed to be Amos Humiston.

Prominent citizens, "chiefly in Philadelphia," were so moved that they created the National Homestead for Orphans of the United States. The Humiston family took up residence in the institution, with the widow acting as headmistress. All was well until widow Humiston remarried and moved to Massachusetts, leaving the orphanage at the mercy of a cruel headmistress named Rosa Charmichael.
Guests meet at 777 Baltimore Street in Gettysburg, Pa to take the Orphanage Tour
During the 90-minute tour, visitors learn the story of Rosa's reign of terror and can view the basement where those who "misbehaved" were chained. Guests can inspect the "table of toys" that is often disturbed.  Toys often disappear from the table and are found in various places in the basement, according to guides. "Every few months we gather them up and put them back on the table," said Liz Lang.

The table of toys that often end up in other areas of the basement, according to the guide. 

To learn more about Charmichael and how the story ends, you can book a tour by visiting their website at Ghostly Images of Gettysburg.

Touring the Jenny Wade House
Ghostly Images of Gettysburg also features a tour of the Jennie Wade House, which appears much like it did 150 years ago. Wade is known as the only civilian to be killed at the Battle of Gettysburg and the historic house provides guests with a perspective of what life was like when the war wreaked havoc on the town.
Statue of Jennie Wade outside the residence.
Guests may be surprised to learn that Wade didn't actually reside at the house, but was visiting her sister, who had given birth during the Battle. Toiling in the kitchen as her sister convalesced, she was struck by a bullet that pierced two doors.

The breadbox where Jennie Wade worked

Door at the Jennie Wade House where bullet holes are evident.

At the end of the tour, guides lead guests to the basement to view a picture of "What a Mother Saw," to show how Jennie Wade's body was laid out in the dank recesses of the house until the Battle came to an end.
Painting in the basement of the Jennie Wade House, titled, "What A Mother Saw"
An Excursion to Easton Maryland for a Chesapeake Ghost Walk
The Easton Maryland Ghost Walk, one of the Chesapeake Ghost Walking Tours, begins at the beautiful, historic and allegedly haunted Tidewater Inn, which I called home for a few days while visiting the area. A group of us gathered outside the inn to listen to a narrator address the crowd. She told the story of a haunting by Mr. Arthur Grymes, who built the hotel that opened to the public in 1949.  I have yet to make the acquaintance of Mr. Grymes, but hope to if I return.
Narrator tells tales of things that go "bump in the night."
Across the street from the Tidewater Inn  is the Avalon Theater. Built in 1921, the Art Deco style theater allegedly is haunted by a dearly departed actress, whose murdered body was discovered in an elevator, which she rides to this day, according to lore. (One of my favorite performers, Robert Cray, will be appearing there on November 16, by the way.) 
The Avalon Theater, built in 1921, is located on 40 East Dover Street, Easton
Other stops on the Easton Ghost Walk include an old jail, an orphanage, the "Odd Fellows" Hall and Foxley Hall, home of Colonel Oswald Tilghman and known as the "most haunted house in Easton." At the conclusion of my trip, I began researching the house and became a bit sidetracked by an article that ran in The Baltimore Sun in February of 1889. The Board of Trustees of Agriculture of the Eastern Shore of Maryland joined to tantalize their taste buds with an interesting repast. The "test dinner," served at Foxley Hall, was held to decide the "comparative merits of succulent mutton and Chesapeake diamondback terrapins," according to the article.

The newspaper reports that Colonel Tilghman served his guests a "complete Chesapeake Bay dinner," before describing in disturbing detail how the terrapins were cooked alive and subsequently served from chafing dishes. Also on the menu that evening: red-head ducks from Eastern Bay cooked for 18 minutes and salt oysters, served with "subsidiary viands." Ok, so I took a little detour there, but I found it all fascinating and sad for the terrapin.
The ill-fated terrapin
Could it be that Foxley is considered the most haunted house in Easton because the terrapins came back to haunt Tilghman and his cruel band of brothers? The "Terror of the Terrapins" could be a shell of a story, but, alas, it is just a figment of my imagination. The "real" tale, I'm told, is that the house is haunted, in part, due to an insane relative who was confined to the third floor of the Tilghman house. Here's the picture I captured in early September.


The final stop on our tour of haunted Easton was the Spring Hill Cemetary where 10,000 Eastonians have been laid to rest. I snapped a few shots while visiting with our group. 
A member of our group touches what the guide referred to as a "Healing Tree." 


One thing I enjoy about ghost tours is that you learn so much about history and you get to poke around neighborhoods, after dark, within the safety of a group. Snooping around, listening to a little gossip, digging into the story a little more--later, on your own time--it's something most reporters enjoy. At least that's what I surmise. The fact that you might just capture something unusual on camera is merely icing on the cake. 



A Museum that Breathes New Life into the Detritus of Broken Relationships

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To celebrate our anniversary in early October, my husband and I felt the time was right to visit Los Angeles, just when authorities were warning of a potential earthquake, which, pardon the pun, was a little unsettling. You can read more about that issue here, Around that same time, flights were being canceled due to hurricanes--we always did have good timing. October is a dicey month to fly it seems. In the end, it all worked out, although we were delayed by an hour-and-a-half thanks to United Airlines. I'm still puzzled why that was. We ended up missing our connection and were forced to take the next flight out. Given all the extraneous circumstances, we felt lucky to have encountered just that one issue and our bags actually caught up with us!

After landing at the smallest airport I've ever seen (the Bob Hope airport in Burbank) we were well on our way to an enjoyable time, although the walk to the rental car was a bit of a trek. We learned that when an airport staffer said, "I hope you wore your hiking boots." I suppose it was still much shorter than any walk through LAX.

Burbank
The tiny Burbank airport

Doing the Touristy Stuff

During our visit we did the typical touristy stuff like visiting the La Brea Tarpits, the Hollywood Walk of Fame and Grauman's Chinese Theatre. The LA weather was wonderful with temps hovering in the low '80s the entire time, enabling us to enjoy a comfortable open-air van tour through Beverly Hills and Mulholland Drive. During the 1.5-hour trip, we learned a few details about the celebs and who owned what property. I now refer to the tour as the "Hedges of the Stars tour," although we did get a few clear shots of several that weren't blocked by walls, or greenery. (All these pictures and more will be soon posted on my Cheese Plates and Room Service Facebook page. You can view them by clicking here.) One interesting note: When we passed Drew Carey's house we noticed he had posted a Gary Johnson for President sign out front.

Momentos of the Past

Our visit included more than one stroll down Hollywood Boulevard, where we stumbled on a rather plain building, but for the cryptic and stark sign plastered across the side, which read: Museum of Broken Relationships. Of course, I had to make it my business to return later for a closer look.
Thinking I came upon a real find, I shared it with my North American Travel Journalist Association group and was informed that some of them had already visited the original location in Zagreb, Croatia--what a way to burst my bubble.  Seriously though, the information was helpful in order to learn the launching point for the backstory.
museum
Inside the Museum of Broken Relationships

It turns out that the Hollywood location is the second incarnation of the original idea that had its roots in Croatia when two artists, in the midst of a breakup, pondered on what becomes of treasured objects after the dissolution of a relationship. After four years of touring, a permanent location opened in Zagreb in 2010 and just this year, the sad sediment of sentimentality opened in Hollywood--an apt location where dreams are both created and dashed. Donations come in from around the world and are gratefully accepted.

The collection runs the gamut of items that were once meaningful to the possessors. Stories aren't just relegated to romance; they also include broken relationships with friends, drugs, once-cherished ideologies and more. These stories are laid bare within the protective walls of the museum, many sheltered behind plates of glass. Several rooms of artifacts, sent by anonymous donors are on display on both levels of the museum. Along with the tangible, are the tales of once was--from the wistful, to the sad, to the raging.

A doodled-on mandolin, a shared love of Davida font and a monopoly game crafted by the hands of a loving husband as a 20th-anniversary present are just a few of the items on display. Just 18-months after the husband presented the board game to his wife, she informed him that she no longer loved him. With that, it ended. "I played my 'Get Out of Jail Free' card and I've been 'Advancing Past Go Ever Since,' he writes.
A collection from a couple that loved Davida font.

103 love letters for each day the relationship lasted.


music
Lovebirds on a mandolin

monopoly
A monopoly game crafted by a loving husband for their 20th wedding anniversary 


One particularly sad story is that of a broken necklace accidentally ripped from her neck by an infant grandchild who later died a violent death. The story reads: "I cannot say that my heart was broken, a piece of it was torn away and crushed."

Spiral-bound notebooks written in beautiful cursive and photographs span 76 years of family history. They were discovered by a landlord after eviction. My personal wish is that someone will share this and that someday the property will be returned to the rightful owner.
history
Pages from a notebook documenting 76 years of family history is left behind following an eviction.
I can't say the visit was the most uplifting time I've spent contemplating artifacts in a museum, but it does demonstrate that life goes on after relationships end. We can only hope that with the telling of the stories and the relinquishment of the reminders, that the donors will find the peace that comes with closure. 




Hershey's Antique Automobile Club of America Museum Offers a Little Something for Everyone

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Aficionados come from miles around to enjoy the outstanding collection of automobiles on display at the Antique Automobile Club of America Museum (AACA) in Hershey.  I visited the museum on assignment and because I'm no enthusiast, I was surprised to enjoy the tour as much as I did. It was both interesting and enlightening.
Hershey car museum
The Hershey Antique Automobile Club of America (Photo courtesy of the AACA)
The AACA welcomes nearly 70,000 guests per year, with rotating exhibits to keep visitors coming back. Volunteer John Marsh said, "We rotate our cars in and out, so people can see something new every time."

The three-story,70,000 square foot building houses nearly 100 cars and visitors follow a timeline that progresses through the years starting with an Early Model T.
Model T
Car pictured against a backdrop of the town of Hershey, Pennsylvania
A permanent exhibit, which fascinates many visitors, features the world's largest collection of Tucker 48 automobiles built by Preston Tucker, a forward-thinking entrepreneur from Michigan. To learn more about Tucker and his creativity and ingenuity, consider viewing Francis Ford Coppola's 1988 film, "Tucker: The Man and His Dream." The three vehicles on display at the AACA include the first 'production' prototype, along with number 1022 and 1026--the only Tucker built with an automatic transmission. Tucker crafted each stylish car by hand and touted them as "the car of tomorrow." Today only 27 are known to exist.
Red Tucker Auto in Hershey Museum
Rare Tucker automobiles on display at the AACA

Tucker car
Tucker car

The AACA is also home to the largest collection of antique buses under one roof. Located on the lower level, the collection includes a 1912 White SF 1038PA bus run by Martz Lines, a 1915 white 15-45 Fullington Autobus Co (Clearfield, Pa) and a 1924 Fageol Safety Coach 12-B.
bus
Old Continentall Trailways bus
The AACA is home to the largest collection of antique buses under one roof.
Also on the lower level is a cute, compact diner, which dates back to the 1940s. The restored eatery, once known as the Flo-Inn Cafe, was transported from Wichita, Kansas and was in operation until the 1980s. You can read more about the Flo-Inn Cafe here.
Old diner
The Flo-Inn Cafe from Witchita Kansas

If you're trying to think of something different to do with the family during the holidays, the AACA is a good choice. The annual "Cars and Christmas" celebration features a vintage Hess toy truck display, a Grinch scavenger hunt and Sammy the 29-ton Snow Plow greets children at the front of the museum.  A perennial favorite for children of all ages is the popular 12-foot-fall, 26-foot long, custom-made Kissmobile cruiser which resembles three Hershey's Kisses and is parked at the main entrance.  An interactive custom train display designed under the leadership of founder Ed Maloy, is also a hit with the little ones.
Kissmobile
The famous "Kissmobile"
You can take a limited virtual tour of the AACA by clicking here, or learn more by visiting their website at www.aacamuseum.org.





Learning about the Past in Historic Fredericksburg, Virginia

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Visitors who enjoy history can spend days in Fredericksburg, Virginia, soaking in the tidbits from the many well-informed, friendly residents who call the town home.

The picturesque area, located about an hour from our nation's capital, features a variety of destinations designed to educate and enlighten.

I recently took a whirlwind tour the area and decided to offer a few suggestions for those who have limited time and still wish to make the most of a weekend visit.

Begin with a Trolley Tour
I always suggest taking a bus or trolley tour to get an overview of the area so you can plot your return to destinations of interest. The Trolley Tours of Fredericksburg operates year round, with knowledgeable guides who provide details on fascinating local people and important events that played a prominent part in our nation's history.

In the 1860s, four major Civil War battles were fought within 15 miles of Fredericksburg and many lives were lost during that time. During the 75-minute trolley tour, guests will learn more about those battles and view churches and buildings used by Confederate and Union soldiers.

The area is replete with historic structures--350 of which are recognized on the National Register of Historic Places and date back hundreds of years, like the St. George's Episcopal Church picture below. Built in 1720, the church features stained-glass windows installed in 1912 by Louis Comfort Tiffany. One famous scene is deemed, "The Road to Emmaus."
church in Fredericksburg

Information flows quickly, which makes it difficult to watch the world fly by AND take notes, but I did manage to jot down a few details here and there for future research.

Another stop along the way includes the Lewis Store,which dates back to 1749. Owned by George Washington's brother-in-law Fielding Lewis, (who was a member of the House of Burgesses and helped found the Fredericksburg Gun Manufactury during the American Revolution), the structure is known as the oldest mercantile shop in the United States.
The Lewis Store in Fredericksburg
The Lewis Store
The Trolley also stops in front of the Rising Sun Tavern, built in 1760 by George Washington's younger brother Charles and the Hugh Mercer Apothecary Shop, which dates back to 1771. The guide offered colorful details on how Dr. Mercer served the citizenry with treatments that were popular at the time--like leeches and lancets, for instance. Today it is open to the public as a museum.
tavern
The Rising Sun Tavern
apothecary
The Hugh Mercer Apothecary Shop
Riders will also view the Historic Kenmore Plantation built by George Washington's sister Betty and his brother-in-law, the aforementioned Fielding Lewis. George chose to buy his mother a house nearby, which is also along the trolley route, but more on that later.

Downtown Fredericksburg is also home to many restaurants and shops, which include 90 independently owned antique stores, some of which the guide will point out along the way.
Italian restaurant
The cozy and quaint Ristorante Renato serves traditional Italian specialties like lasagna and meatballs. 
Goolricks Pharmacy, also located downtown, is worthy of a visit. I was attracted to the neon sign because I enjoy keeping up with news from the Society for Commercial Archeology, so I snapped a few pictures during my trip, only to discover later that it touts one of the oldest continuously operating soda fountains in the nation.
drugstore
Goolrick's Pharmacy established in 1847.

soda fountain

Goolrick's


These are but a few destinations you'll see along the tour route. Trolleys run year-round and start at the Fredericksburg Visitor Center located at 706 Caroline Street. Winter tours take place twice daily at 11:00 a.m. and 1:30 p.m.

Visit the Abode of Mary Washington
The Trolly Tour also passes the Mary Washington House built in 1772 and purchased by George Washington for his mother Mary. The white frame home located on the corner of Charles and Lewis Street in Fredericksburg is within walking distance of the Kenmore Plantation, where Mary's daughter Betty lived. Mary moved there at the age of 64 and resided in the house for approximately 17 years before succumbing to what we learned later was breast cancer.

Today the public can tour the house and the garden, where Mary grew flowers and boxwoods.

Many thanks to Washington Heritage Museums for bending the rules a bit and allowing me to snap a few shots of the interior.
Mary Washington residence in Fredericksburg
The exterior of the Mary Washington House.

Mary Washington House living room
Interior photos of the Mary Washington House

antique
Unique details on a chair in the Mary Washington House
tea set
Mary Washington's favorite tea set from China
bedroom
The first-floor bedroom of the Mary Washington House
George Washington slept here
George Washington was said to have slept here.
sundial
A sundial that belonged to Mary Washington.
Hand-carved chair rail
Hand-carved chair rail 
Take a Self-Guided Tour of Chatham

Chatham Manor is a beautiful and stately Georgian-style home which was once the residence of farmer-turned-statesman William Fitzhugh. It is one of just three locations visited by both Washington and Lincoln. Although built prior to the Revolutionary War, the place is most remembered for its role during the Civil War where it served as a Union headquarters, hospital and soup kitchen.

Today it stands as headquarters for Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania National Military Park. Staff volunteers greeted us at the front door and offered to answer any questions we had during the self-guided tour.

During our visit, we learned a few grisly details about the condition of the house after the war, from blood and graffiti on the walls, to damage wreaked by horses housed on the first floor.
Needless to say, the grounds and manor have been restored and guests can view a timeline of its many owners and incarnations over the years.
Chatham
Chatham Manor in Fredericksburg
The entrance to Chatham Manor.
Chatham
Interior pictures of Chatham Manor.
Chatham Manor
pantry at Chatham Manor
The kitchen at Chatham Manor.

copper sink
A cool copper sink, with a window that overlooks the grounds.
sword
A scabbard decorated by a soldier is protected by glass and contains a hand-drawing of Chatham.
Learn about our Fifth President
The James Monroe Museum and Memorial Library is located at 908 Charles Street and contains the largest collection of artifacts and documents related to the fifth president of the United States. Relatives of James and Elizabeth Monroe believed that the small brick structure was once the site of Monroe's law office and chose the site to honor their ancestor, who was elected in 1816 with 80 percent of the electoral vote. It has since been revealed that the building is too new to have been the site of Monroe's law office, but there is no dispute that he did practice law on the same plot of land where the building stands today.
museum
The exterior of the James Monroe Museum and Memorial Library.

James Monroe residence
James Monroe Museum and Memorial Library
Visitors will learn that Monroe was the first president to occupy the White House after it was burned by the British in the war of 1812 and that the onus was on James and his wife to help furnish the residence. A picture depicting the incident hangs on one of the walls near a piano, which dates back to the Monroe administration and is played today during special events.
antique piano
Washington, DC
Guests get a glimpse into the life and times of Monroe by following a series of panels detailing the timeline of his life and legislation he spearheaded. Artifacts on display include the 1795 desk where the Monroe Doctrine was signed, portraits of the President during various times of his life, jewelry worn by his wife Elizabeth Monroe and a bas-relief, which dates back to 1904 and was created by sculptor Karl Bitter. It served as a template for a bronze sculpture that is now displayed at the Missouri State Capitol and depicts James Monroe, Robert Livingston and Francis Barbe-Marbois signing the Louisiana Purchase treaty.
presidential portrait
Lousiana Purchase signing
The scale model of the signing of the Louisiana Purchase was displayed at the 1904 World's Fair. 
antique jewelry
Jewelry worn by James Monroe's wife Elizabeth.
Monroe Doctrine desk
The desk on which the Monroe Doctrine was signed. 
Unique Accommodations Offer a Step Back in Time
If you're seeking unique accommodations, go no further than Stevenson Ridge located in nearby Spotsylvania Courthouse, Virginia. I have to admit it was the coolest place I've stayed to date.

Debbie and Dan Spears own the 87-acre property and share a passion for antique structures. After the couple purchased the property in the year 2000, they began restoring antique cottages and relocating them to the property located near the Spotsylvania National battlefield. As of today, Dan has restored nine, updating them with modern conveniences while retaining the original character. "There's a lot to admire in the craftsmanship and artistry of these old buildings," he said.

The couple named their property "Stevenson Ridge" for a Union officer who was killed in the area in 1864 while commanding soldiers who fought in the Battle of Spotsylvania Court House.

The oldest building on the property dates back to 1732 and is deemed "The Spy Hill House." The two-story structure includes a master suite, a queen bed, two wood-burning fireplaces, a living room, kitchenette and a private patio overlooking the pond.

Additional renovated accommodations include a log home dating back to 1830, a tobacco barn, an 1812 plantation home, a corn crib and a renovated post office, to name a few.

When we learned that we would be staying at the Post Office, we couldn't help but be intrigued and I have to say it certainly gained our "stamp" of approval. When I later shared pictures of the place, people marveled how unique it was.

I'll let the photos speak for themselves.

Old Post Office
A view of the front porch of the "Post Office."

Inside the old post office at Stevenson Ridge in Fredericksburg
Can't wait to get into that robe.


cabin
An old-fashioned kitchen with a newfangled Keurig.

old post office
A working stone fireplace and a coffee table hewn of wood

Cabin
A view of the woods from our dining room.

Fredericksburg cabin
The roomy, rustic living room. 

Post office door
A view of the door from the inside--glad it had a peg lock because we failed at the skeleton key challenge. 
Spotsylvania Post office
The "Post Office" bedroom, which provided a peaceful night's sleep.
Old cabin in Spotsylvania
The stairs to the second floor.

Spotsylvania cabin
The front porch of The Post Office is tailor made for goofing off. 

Cabin in Spotsylvania
A neighboring cabin across the way. 

Cabin

pond
The pond at Stevenson's Ridge

cabin
Another view of the neighbor's cabin

Spotsylvania cabin
An additional shot of the exterior of the Post Office. 

Cabin
Mike was blowing on the top of that milk jug, slapping his knee and singing a few minutes before I snapped this picture. 
When I started writing this post, I figured that it would be short and sweet, but it turns out that there is a lot to be said about the destinations I've detailed here. There is so much more history to discover in Fredericksburg and much more to write, but I think I'll stop now, but not before I mention Hallowed Ground Tours. Scott Walker, a retired history teacher, tailors his tours to each group he engages, so whether you have a solid knowledge of history or none at all, Walker will work with you to discover your interests and provide accordant information.

My only regret in visiting the area is that we allotted so little time to get the "full-on" Fredericksburg experience. I hear the area is beautiful during the summer, and next year we intend to find out.


Tasting Greenwich Village

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I can't say I enjoy the "hustle and bustle" of the holidays, so, being the masochist that I am, I inserted myself right into the middle of it all with a mid-December trip to New York.

Our local radio station was sponsoring a bus trip to the Big Apple and I had my eye on a Greenwich Village food tasting tour, so I purchased tickets several weeks in advance. I do love travel, more than I hate crowds, I suppose.

As for the winter weather, we've been quite lucky here in good old frosty Pennsylvania. Just last year, one snowstorm alone, (Jonas), dropped a total of 36 inches on us. This year, we've enjoyed a bit of a reprieve, which lasted until the day of the tour. We learned 24-hours beforehand that an ice storm was nigh, and, for once, the forecasters were correct, but we stayed the course. My husband and I piled in the car around 5:00 a.m. and made our way carefully to the radio station studio, which was about 10 miles away. Roads had yet to be salted and snow fell steadily. Being half asleep has its merits; I only "overreacted" (according to my husband) once as we slid through a stop light.

You can deduce that we made it in one piece by the fact that I'm writing this, but I have to say that the ride wasn't without its harrowing moments and we witnessed a few wrecks along the way. Thankfully, the rain stopped right before we pulled into the city. We did have to wade through deep puddles of slush here and there, so I have to give a shout out to the manufacturer of my boots--which kept my feet dry the entire time. Thanks to Patrizia for a well-made, waterproof, comfortable pair of footwear.

Eating our Way through Greenwich Village

We met our guide at Murray's Cheese and Gourmet Foods located on Bleecker Street. The family-owned establishment was founded in 1940, by Murray Greenburg, a Jewish veteran of the Spanish Civil War. Murray later sold the business to his clerk, an Italian immigrant who hailed from Calabria. The shop met the eggs, butter and simple cheese needs of the neighborhood. In the 1990s, Rob Kaufelt, a New Jersey native with a grocery background and a passion for cheese, purchased the business and expanded the offerings. Today the establishment is chockablock with cheeses that Kaufelt has discovered during his travels around the world.
cheese
Murray's Cheese Shop located at 254 Bleecker Street
After our Murray's visit, the guide led us down the road a bit to another beloved New York institution--a small pizza shop by the name of Joe's. He informed us that lines are often "out the door," which isn't hard to believe since the shop can be described as "cozy."

We learned that the business was founded in 1975 by Naples native Joe Pozzuoli. (I found myself wondering if my great-grandmother, who also hailed from Naples, made a similar pie; stories were that it was fantastic.)

With its glutinous, thin crust made with dough incorporating New York City tap water, high-quality mozzarella, and San Marzano tomatoes, it sets the standard for what New York pizza is supposed to be and has won many accolades, including being named one of the "Best 25 Pizzas on Earth," by GQ Magazine.

A bit of inside information provided by the guide: the little joint was originally located just three doors down, but at the end of the 20-year-lease, the rent skyrocketed from $900 a month to a whopping $15,000 a month. Joe wasn't having it, so he moved down the street and, at age 75, still oversees operations.
pizza
Joe's Pizza at 7 Carmine Street in New York's Greenwich Village
After snacking on our pizza slices, we learned a little more about the architecture and history of the area and that is it quite expensive to reside in "The Village." Our guide informed us that this tenement housing you see below located is considered a "steal" and is available for between $2600 and $3200 a month. (Evidently, my version of "steal" is quite different than that of a New Yorker.) That princely sum will land you a studio apartment measuring between 300-350 square feet. Air conditioning, pets, elevators? Fugeddaboutit.
Greenwich Village
Dreaming of New York living? A studio apartment in this beauty cost between $2600-$3200 a month.
Greenwich Village
Want to capture a glimpse of Taylor Swift? Word has it you can at least view her darkly tinted chariot emerging once in awhile.
That's quite a contrast to a property that Taylor Swift is currently renting. We happened upon this property on our way to Cornelia Street Cafe, which is located on the same block.

Cornelia Street Cafe is well known in New York as an artistic haunt, featuring spoken word, comedy and musical performances. There we enjoyed a deep-fried, softball-sized rice ball known as arancini, Having been on other food tours, I have learned from experience to pace myself, so my husband was only too happy to indulge in half of what I was served during most of the tour.

While relaxing in the lower level of the Cafe, we learned a few more tidbits about the haven for artists and that Sara Jessica Parker and her husband Matthew Broderick canoodled here on their first date. (If you care about that sort of thing, and I made up the canoodling--although it could be true. It would be even better if they canoodled at a noodle place.)

Greenwich Village Cafe
Cornelia Street Cafe dates back to the 1970s. 
Greenwich Village Cafe

A stop at O & Co. revealed to the group why we're being ripped off by substandard olive oil and deceptive marketing practices. Having enjoyed the quality of olive oil sold at O & Co. in the past, I am happy they are getting the word out. Hint: Always look for "cold pressed." Heat processing destroys the health benefits.
O & Co
O & Co. sells a selection of high-quality olive oil and balsamic vinegar. 
chandelier

As we trudged along the slushy streets, our guide pointed out this interesting abode, known as the narrowest home in New York City. The dwelling once served as a boarding house for actors at the nearby Cherry Lane Theatre. Once home to poet Edna St. Vincent Millay and anthropologist Margaret Mead, the 9 x 6-inch dwelling sold for a cool $3.25 million in 2013. To get a glimpse inside this unique space, click here.
Margaret Mead's house
75 1/2 Bedford Street, New York. This address is known as the narrowest home in NYC.

From there, we took a peek at the Cherry Lane Theater, where Barbra Streisand once worked as an usher.
theatre
Other stops along the way included Trattoria Pesce Pasta, where we indulged in one of the delicious meatballs for which they are known and Rafele Ristorante, where we dined on eggplant rollatini.
Greenwich Village restaurant
Trattoria Pesce Pasta opened in 1992 and is a neighborhood favorite. 

Greenwich Village restaurant
We dined on eggplant rollatini at Rafele Ristorante.
We ended our tour with an oversized chocolate chip cookie at Milk and Cookies Bakery, an independent neighborhood haunt that caters to Greenwich Village locals. Our guide pointed out the property next door that was once rented by Mark Zuckerberg and is currently on the market for a mere $5.75 million.

Property rented by Mark Zuckerberg in Greenwich Village
Property last rented by Mark Zuckerberg

Greenwich Village Bakery
Milk & Cookies Bakery

Before wrapping up our visit to New York, we managed to take in a few sights at Bryant Park and had the opportunity to meet a few rude employees at the New York Public Library who loudly shouted, "Get OUT, Get OUT," to a gang of people at 5:45 p.m. near closing time. Well, I guess they aren't known as the "City of Brotherly Love," so what can one expect?
Library
A mural at the New York Public Library. 
library
Holdings at the New York Public Library.
VR popup
FaceBook was demonstrating VR at a pop up in Bryant Park.
ceiling painting
A shot of the New York Public Library ceiling.
Bryant Park at Christmas
Ice skaters at Bryant Park.

Still, NY remains extremely popular during the holiday season and the streets grew claustrophobically crowded as dusk fell.

I'd be interested in taking another food tour when the weather is a bit more accommodating and the crowds a little less intense, but if you enjoy food, history, architecture and local lore, it's certainly time well spent. 

Exploring Historic West Chester

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Several weeks ago I had the opportunity to visit downtown West Chester, Pa not just for a change of scenery, (which I enjoy every month or two), but also to learn more about the history of the area.

I learned that the borough of West Chester has been known as a haven for hospitality since the 1760s when Phineas Eachus was licensed to build a tavern in the area. Today it's a growing region that is drawing increasing interest from out-of-towners seeking a getaway.

Shoppers, history buffs, foodies and art enthusiasts will all likely find something enchanting in the walkable little town.

Upscale Accommodations in a Renovated Theatre

The West Chester downtown historic district earned a place on the National Register of Historic Places in 1985 with its impressive number of structures built between 1789 and the 1930s and the centrally located family owned and operated Hotel Warner, is just one of them.
lobby at the Hotel Warner
The lobby of the Hotel Warner features the original theater staircase.
Hotel Warner
A floor-to-ceiling photo hangs in the lobby to give guests a glimpse into the days of yore.
The hotel welcomes guests today with 80 comfortable rooms and amenities like free wi-fi, an indoor pool, a free breakfast buffet, and a workout room, but the structure was once home to a state-of-the-art theater that was renown for its over-the-top grandeur. This both enthralled and confused the local community sending the rumor mill into overdrive with speculation that it was all a big mistake and that the theater was intended for West Chester, New York, rather than West Chester, Pennsylvania.

West Chester
The outside of the Hotel Warner as viewed from the top of the Chestnut Street garage.
Local Eateries 


Downtown West Chester is replete with eateries within walking distance of the Warner Hotel, some continuing in the tradition of repurposing that which once was.

For example, Restaurant 51 is a fine example of an old-firehouse-turned-hip eating establishment. Located at 30 N. Church Street, the eatery has been popular with the locals since opening in February. The spacious interior decor, with its exposed brick, ductwork and Edison lights can be described as "industrial chic."

For many, it is a gathering place to root for their favorite team, or just to knock back a few, grab a bite and socialize. The menu features casual fare like burgers, fries, soups, salads and entrees like chicken parmesan and fish and chips, with rotating craft brews, select wines and specialty cocktails rounding out the menu.
Restaurant
Restaurant 51 Tap & Spirit
Woolworth's
The front of the Iron Hill Brewery, which was once home to a Woolworth's.
Another popular area restaurant is the Iron Hill Brewery located at 3 Gay Street, where you'll find handcrafted beer served in a casual atmosphere. Both my husband and I decided to grab lunch there and we were not disappointed. I ordered the "Zeus Burger," which is named after the Greek god to highlight the Greece-inspired ingredients. All I know is that its good I don't live closer, or the New Years' diet resolutions would be out the window. The combination of lamb and beef was perfectly matched with cucumber, onion and feta. Add to that the crowning touches of garlic aioli and herb sauce and pile the entire shooting match on a brioche bun and there you have a cravable dish.
Brewery
Inside of the dining room of the Iron Hill Brewery. 
Brewery
In front of the Iron Hill Brewery
My husband was equally pleased with his selection--the "Grilled Brewben." The corned beef/swiss cheese sandwich topped with bacon beer kraut and thousand island dressing was served on marble rye. Mike described it as the "best Reuben he ever had." (That's saying something since I've witnessed him consume an untold number throughout the years.)
Reuben
The Grilled "Brewben."
burger
The "Zeus Burger" served with delicious homemade chips; I want another.
Architectural Walking Tours

With so many historic structures looming large in West Chester, it would be a pity to stroll by and guess at their provenance, so that's why Malcolm Johnstone makes himself available to those who are interested. Johnstone, history buff extraordinaire, tailors tours to time and interest and can be reached at mjohnstone@wcbid.com.

One notable building guests will learn about on Johnstone's tour is located near the Chester County Historical Society. Horticultural Hall is known as the last West Chester commission of renowned architect Thomas U.Walter before he oversaw construction of the dome atop the U.S. Capitol. Walter used serpentine stone--a limestone extracted from the Taylor Quarry north of West Chester. Once guests learn about the limestone, they then recognize other buildings around town that also contain the green-hued stone.
West Chester
Horticultural Hall

post office
The historic post office.

Another interesting structure is the historic post office, located at 101 E. Gay Street. The federal building was erected during a time when James Knox Taylor served as the supervising Architect of the Treasury at the turn of the 20th century. He believed that government buildings should be monumental, beautiful and constructed of the highest quality materials.

The post office was built in two phases, with construction starting in 1907 and then resuming in 1935. Cockeysville Marble that was quarried at Baker's Station nearly 18 miles away was used in the construction and is said to glitter in the sunlight. I visited on a cloudy day, unfortunately.

The William Darlington Building seen below and built in 1789 is considered the oldest surviving First Period structure and is dedicated to William Darlington, considered one of the fathers of West Chester. Darlington was an educator, botanist, banker and politician, who lived and worked at this location during most of his career.
First Period Structure
The William Darlington Building located at 13 North High Street.
portraiture
This picture of William Darlington hangs in the local historical society.

Other historic buildings include the Chester County Courthouse, built in 1848 and the First Bank of Chester County built in 1837. Now owned by Wells Fargo, the First Bank building is the oldest commercial structure in West Chester operating in the capacity for which it was built. It's a fine example of Greek Revival and is one of the reasons why West Chester earned the nickname the Athens of Pennsylvania. If you visit, you can step onto the portico and look towards the ceiling to see the inscription by the architect, who must have been proud of his work. Engraved into the stone is his name: Thomas U. Walter
courthouse
The West Chester Courthouse built in 1848

Wells Fargo
First Bank of Chester County built in 1837, now occupied by Wells Fargo.
bank
Thomas U. Walter added his name to the structure.
Visiting the Chester County Historical Society
The Chester County Historical Society located at 225 North High Street is home to a research library of rare documents, photographs and newspapers spanning a period of 300 years. The Society hosts a variety of youth programs and features rotating exhibits.
historical society
The Chester County Historical Society
From now through December, guests can view the artwork of Adrian Martinez, who brings history to life with his exhibit titled, "The Visionary World of Humphry Marshall 1750-1800." The talented artist, who hails from D.C., tells the story of Chester County native Humphry Marshall, who is now viewed as a "renaissance man." Marshall used his talents working as a stonemason, farmer, astronomer, botanist and chemist, to name a few. Martinez describes Marshall as a "curious man," not unlike Benjamin Franklin and Thomas Jefferson. In his exhibit, Martinez depicts Marshall and the people around him as he imagines them to be, while, at the same time crediting another West Chester notable, William Darlington, who recognized that men such as Marshall should not be forgotten.
Humphry Marshall
Adrian Martinez artist
Susannah Wright confers with Deborah Norris Logan 

Adrian Martinez artist
Artist Andrian Martinez poses with his painting: Downings' Town, which depicts the peaceful aspirations of Quakers against the reality of war.  
A Nice Variety of Shops

West Chester is home to an eclectic mix of shops and visitors can spend hours browsing among all 75.  For foodies, I recommend a visit to Carlinos--a market that sells a wide array of sweets, cheeses, olives, meats, pasta and other artisan creations designed to make your mouth water. 

olives
The olive bar at Carlinos. 
Gourmet Shop

Chocolate aficionados won't want to miss Eclat, located at 24 S. High. Christopher Curtin pulls out all the stops to ensure that he provides his clientele with the highest quality chocolate available. The Master Chocolatier honed his skills at some of the finest chocolate houses in the world, from France, to Germany, Belgium, Switzerland and Japan.  I recommend trying the lavender caramels and one of their unique "parallel bars," like the one shown here flavored with green tea and roasted rice.

Parellel bar at Eclat

Curtin has worked with Anthony Bourdain and his chocolates have been recognized by Bon Appetit as some of the "Best Chocolates in America." He has appeared on CNN's "Parts Unknown," with Anthony Bourdain (Peru episode). He collaborated with Bourdain and chef Eric Ripert to create "Good & Evil," a chocolate bar embedded with nibs and crafted from dark Peruvian Pure Nacional chocolate that grows wild and was thought to be extinct.
Chocolate bar sourced in Peru
A few of the chocolate selections available at Eclat. 

truffles

chocolate

West Chester isn't just for foodies. The many retail boutiques offer a wide selection of apparel, gifts, art and collectibles. As a matter of fact, West Chester was recently voted "Best New Shopping District" by Philadelphia Magazine and Frommers recognized it as one of the top 10 Best Small-town downtowns.

Book lovers in search of a bargain can generally bank on finding something of interest at Second Reading Book Store at 32 N. Church Street. The small shop carries a range of books, most of which are $3 or less and sales proceeds benefit senior citizens. I picked up a like-new Malcolm Gladwell hardback for a mere $3.
books
Second Reading sells used books at bargain prices.
Downtown West Chester is growing and reaching out to an even wider variety of tastes for those, who like me, need a change of scenery every now and then. To keep up-to-date with what's happening in this burgeoning area, take a look at their website at www.downtownwestchester.com.

A Quick Philly Jaunt to a Few Philly Haunts

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entranceway

I found myself in Philadelphia last weekend on what could hardly be described as a "trip." I suppose it was more like a jaunt--an overnight stay, which began on a chilly Saturday afternoon. I found it hard to believe that just one week earlier, I was enjoying strolling around Berkeley Springs, West Virginia in short sleeves prior to taking part in the annual International Water Tasting Competition, (which I will be writing about later). The weather was glorious as temperatures soared into the 70s. Just seven days later in not-too-far-away Philly, we were braving mid-20 temps, quickening our steps and pulling our coat collars up against the wind as we made our way to various destinations downtown.
building


Despite our last-minute decision to spend a night in the bustling area, we managed to nab a decent rate at a nicely appointed and spacious room at the Marriott Residence Inn Center City, with Billy Penn staring right down into our bedroom window. 

Guests were offered a free, hot, breakfast featuring the standard selection of fruit, yogurt, sausage, scrambled eggs and my husband's favorite--biscuits and gravy. I'd recommend the property to anyone who wants better-than-average accommodations located in the heart of the action. 

If you're comparing prices, however, do factor in a $53 valet charge, or you'll get sticker shock like we did. The City of Philadelphia (heretofore unbeknownst to us) implemented a $10 per-car valet tax and because there was no onsite lot, we had no choice but to use the service. It seems like standard parking in large cities ends up costing $30-$50 no matter which way you slice it these days. Two years ago we stayed in a Washington, D.C. Marriott Marquis and paid $50 there as well. 
City Hall in Philadelphia
Philadelphia City Hall
Normally when I embark on such a short trip, I don't usually take the time to write up an account, but I did manage to take a few nice pictures of the area and wanted to share the shots taken from one destination, in particular. 
Philly
William Penn
William Penn stands tall atop City Hall


Philly
William Penn
At one time, Philadelphia zoning laws allowed no building to be higher than William Penn's hat. 
The pictures below happen to be the ones I shot with my plain old Lumix digital from the One Liberty Observation Deck located at One Liberty Place. The attraction is relatively new, having opened just over a year ago on November 28, 2015.

Open 365 days a year from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., the deck is accessible via a 75-second elevator trip to the top of the 57th floor for a panoramic view of the city. (Afterwards, you can spend some time at the upscale shopping mall located at the same address.)

Below are a few of the stunning views I captured from various lookout points.

Philly

One Liberty Observation Point
Views from One Liberty Observation Deck

Philly

building

Philadelphia as seen from One Liberty Observation Deck


city

Benjamin Franklin
Ben Franklin stands guard at One Liberty Observation Deck.

Philly bridge

Later that evening we enjoyed small plates at a Greek restaurant called Opa located at 1311 Samson Street. The Greek salad, pork souvlaki and keftedes were wonderful, but I flipped for a delicious combination of fingerling potatoes with taleggio cheese and pancetta. It wouldn't be a proper night in Philly however if didn't come home with a story, or two. As we sat near a street-level window overlooking Samson Street, we watched a transaction that involved money, a large bowl pipe, a "hit" and a grin. Kinda like "loosies," but with weed. Inflation and all, I suppose.

Another Short Visit--to McGillin's Old Ale House

After dinner, I had the ill-advised idea to venture down the alley to the "oldest continuously operating tavern in Philadelphia," called McGillin's Old Ale House. I guess we didn't fit in well with the under-25'ers because we raised a few eyes and a nervous looking crowd parted as we made our way inside. Were they expecting a bust? I swear I heard, "Oh shit." 

Others just gaped at us as they slid to the floor. I couldn't help but be a bit amused, but I wasn't hanging around either. Well, W.C. Fields did famously say, "Philly is a wonderful place; I spent a week there one night." 

Later, I learned a few more interesting details about the place, like it opened the year Lincoln was elected and the taps have been flowing since 1860. Ma and Pa McGill raised 13 children there and back in the day, Ma had a list of "ne'er do wells" whom she refused to allow past the front door. According to their website, the list read like the social registry and included some of Philly's most prominent citizens.

I also learned that McGillin's is home to a rather intriguing collection of signs from now-defunct Philly businesses like Wanamakers, Woolworths, Lit Brothers, Strawbridge & Clothier and a stately old respected institution by the name of Deux Cheminees, where we had the pleasure to dine over a decade ago. (The 100+-year-old twin brownstones with leaded stained glass, walnut paneling, and Mercer-tiled fireplaces closed in 2007 and have since been taken over by the highly acclaimed vegetarian restaurant known simply as "Vedge.")  I doubt we'll go there due to...well, take a guess. (Hint: He's in the picture below.)
McGillins
"The man"  intent upon busting up the fun approaches a group of young revelers at McGillin's.
We stopped for a late-night drink before returning to the Residence Inn and I ran into an old professor who was fired up on scotch and politics, but that's another story to file away with the many other quirky memories we've collected on our many visits to the City of Brotherly Love. 


Whetting My Whistle as a Water Judge at the Berkeley Springs International Water Tasting

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For those who fear they may be bored to death with this blog entry, I'll sum it up in a nutshell so you save some time reading it if you just can't bear to continue.
"There's so much more to H2O than you likely know." 

Have I lost you yet? I hope not because it CAN be a bit of an interesting topic, even more so if I stay out of the weeds with a brief overview of what's happening in the water world. (Oh and I do hope this isn't as boring as the movie!)

To start off, I will admit that I received quite the education when I was chosen to sit with a dozen or so of my colleagues to judge approximately 75 waters at the 27th Annual Berkeley Springs International Water Tasting in February.

Each year, about a dozen judges are selected to spend a few days in Berkeley Springs, West Virginia to learn more about the nuances of water tasting and other important information about the role the life-sustaining liquid plays in the health of our planet.

So how did I manage to nab a seat on the panel you might ask? Well, it all began last year when I was put in touch with water sommelier Martin Riese for an upcoming article in the Chambersburg Public Opinion. Suggesting that this country may be ready for more water sommeliers might likely earn one the accusation of being "all wet," but for Riese, it was, (and still is), serious business. 

Riese is known as the only water sommelier in the United States and has been featured widely in the media as such. The H2O expert is certified by the German Water Trade Association and at the time of the interview, had been hired by the Patina Group to create a 40-page water-tasting menu for Ray's and Stark Bar in Los Angeles. 

Last year, Riese participated in the water judging and granted me an interview, which, in turn, led me to event producer Jill Klein Rone. Jill learned about my blog and dining column and asked if I'd be willing to participate as a judge the following year. I was skeptical about my ability to distinguish one water from another, but am always up for a challenge, so I agreed and this February I joined other food writers, bloggers and various media personalities at the historic Country Inn of Berkeley Springs.There we spent hours sipping, scoring and comparing a variety of waters, evaluating them for clarity, taste, "mouth feel" and other attributes.
Inn
A "common room" at the Country Inn of Berkeley Springs.

tavern
The Morgan Tavern at the Inn at The Country Inn of Berkeley Springs.

springs
A view from the outside of the Country Inn of Berkeley Springs, which dates back to 1932.
According to Klein Rone, the competition has grown exponentially over the years. "When the event started, it was to draw people to Berkeley Springs as part of a winter festival. We had no idea it would end up being so important in the water world."

This year's theme was "Water: Beneath the Surface and Around the Globe" and water experts from around the world gathered to discuss such topics as the crisis in Flint, Michigan, infrastructure and protecting our water supply.

Joining the Judges

One of my first jobs as a judge was to take part in an educational session delivered by Water Master Arthur Von Wiesenberger. Weisenberger, who grew up in Italy and describes himself as a "passionate hobbyist," flies in from Santa Barbara, California each year to share his knowledge with the panel. As a colorful personality and an endless "font" of information, he shares sometimes humorous stories, like the tale about a "rogue" judge who scored a rather odious municipal water quite high. "It reminds me of my childhood," declared the native Frenchman.

During the session, Wiesenberger keyed us in on various aspects of water, from minerals, to trace elements and carbonation. "The most common tastes consumers experience in tap water come from chlorine, (from the chemicals used in water treatment), iron (from pipes, storage tanks and nature) and sulfur (usually from natural hot springs.)" He explained that bottled water has varying degrees of mineralization, which impart a range of flavor,"mouth feel" and "aftertaste sensations." 

The Water Master also provided us with a small compendium on the subject titled "The Taste of Water," which included a glossary of sometimes humorous tasting "notes" including "wet band-aid, wet dog, flabby and flinty." 

After the educational session, we began sampling some of the finest waters in the world, some coming from as far away as Greece, Norway, New Zealand and Korea. 

Von Wiesenberger cautioned us to be cognizant of the information he shared as we waded into the realm of the water critic.We spent the afternoon and evening examining the clarity of the water placed before us by holding wine glasses up to the light against the backdrop of stark white paper. We rolled the water around in our mouths to gauge "mouth feel" and scored the various entries according to a series of attributes, including how we felt about the taste--whether we were we "over the moon," or just "meh." 

To prevent palate fatigue we were supplied with an ample supply of the aptly named Carr's "water crackers," which we would nibble on here and there and then resume the process of tasting. 

We took several breaks for reasons you can probably guess and one final break for dinner where we socialized with our colleagues before reconvening. We tasted municipal water, purified and bottled water, both still and sparkling. 

Discerning degrees of difference between the various purified waters turned out to be the most challenging due to subtle nuances. The easiest waters to judge ended up being the municipal and the sparkling water, both of which had a stronger "taste." An interesting takeaway, in my opinion, is that there are far better sparkling water choices than salty Perrier. The challenge will be to find any of those brands in my town. To add to the complication, I have no idea which ones hit a home run with me since it was a "blind" competition, but now I will be actively seeking alternative brands. 


wine
The view of the "tasting" from my vantage point, along with the score sheet. One interesting fact was that an unusually large percentage of left-handers were seated at the front table.


water tasting
That's me in the purple. 

iceberg
The pricey Svalbardi Polar Iceberg Water from Norway. 

A few things that surprised me about the experience. Number 1: The event drew a large audience--in fact--quite a few people observed the competition and the crowd swelled during the evening events as they watched us....taste....water. Granted, I imagine a few were family and friends of those who entered their waters in the competition, but still...Who knew that water tasting would be a spectator sport? Number two was the cost of the Svalbardi Polar Iceberg Water from Norway. A display told the story of the niche water and how it makes its way to market. Harvesting glacier ice is no small feat, nor is it inexpensive.You can read more here.

During the event, the public played an active role by casting its vote on the most attractive packaging. "Winners have experienced exponential growth, others have closed major deals and almost all winners redesign their labels to display their winning medal," said founder Jeanne Mozier. 
"The impact of winning this event is extraordinary for a bottler," she added. 

The competition culminated with a "water rush" where the crowd rushed the stage with all manner of bags and receptacles to grab as many bottles as they could carry. Even the kids got in on the action.

I must say it was an interesting, fun, educational experience and I took time the day before to explore charming and historic Berkeley Springs, West Virginia, where I learned the story of the Berkeley Castle and laid eyes on what is rub-a-dub-dubbed as "George Washington's bathtub." I'll be blogging about my time there in the next week or so.

And, in case you stayed with me to the bitter end, here are the winners of the 2017 competition:

http://berkeleyspringswatertasting.com/winners/




Poking around the Historic Little Town of Berkeley Springs, West Virginia

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Gazebo
The Gazebo in Berkeley Springs Park
For a small community of fewer than 1,000 inhabitants, Berkeley Springs offers plenty to do and see for the tourist seeking a change of scenery. It's  been about six weeks since I accepted the invitation to be a judge at the annual Berkeley Springs International Water Tasting event and I'm finally finding time to write about my visit to the area. (Those who have yet to read about this unique experience can view the details in an earlier post on this site.)

I needn't have fretted about frigid February weather. In an unexpected twist, temperatures climbed into the mid-70, and to think, just last year, the region was encased in ice just around that very same time.

Known for its Waters
park

healing baths

Berkeley Springs was once home to native Americans who first used the warm mineral springs for healing purposes before white settlers arrived. In 1776, George Washington, who was known to frequent the area, joined his friends and formed the town of Bath, now known to the world by its postal name "Berkeley Springs." Visitors have since been drawn to the waters which were said to have curative properties and were prescribed for a variety of ailments ranging from rheumatism to digestive disorders. Whether they do or not is up for debate, but the most prominent mineral is reported to be magnesium carbonate. Historians report that "taking the waters" often provided an excuse for socializing as well.

Early bathers were known to have soaked in hollowed-out pools, with privacy provided by woven brush screens. Women and men would bathe on alternate days. I must admit I was just a little disappointed to learn that "George Washington's Bath Tub," which can be seen near the west side of Berkeley Springs State Park, is merely a representation of bathing conditions at the time.

During warmer weather, children and adults alike wade in the park's pools and channels. The Bathhouse is open all year round where visitors can, for a fee, luxuriate in jacuzzis, or in a walk-in "Roman Bath" filled with 750 gallons of mineral water, which is heated to a temperature of 102 degrees.


Berkeley Springs park "bath"


bath building
At Berkeley Springs park where guests can soak in heated mineral water.
Guests also visit the park to help themselves to free water from public fountains housed onsite under the historic Gentleman's Spring House located next to the Old Roman Bathhouse. When we visited, we spoke with a couple who were filling up dozens of gallon jugs they had toted from Washington, DC.
Buhrstone
A park monument dedicated to James Rumsey, who invented the steamboat, according to West Virginians,. The curious monument is a buhrstone from a local mill since Rumsey was also known to have patented several mill-related inventions.
Staying in the Heart of the Action
Berkeley Springs hotel
The Country Inn dates back to 1932 and is located next to the Berkeley Springs State Park.
The Country Inn is located in the center of town within convenient walking distance of Berkeley Springs Park and other retail and service establishments. Both rooms and suites are available and restaurants are located on site.
Sitting room
Sitting rooms in the Country Inn.

Berkeley Springs Inn

tavern
The Country Inn's onsight restaurant, The Morgan Tavern

House upon the Hill, Moon is Lying Still
When entering the grounds of the Berkeley Springs State Park, your eye will be drawn upwards to a castle perched atop a steep cliff above the park. The odd structure seems a bit out of place and I couldn't help but be reminded of this old song sung by the inimitable Lizard King.

The medieval-looking castle, with it's carved cross located in the center of a turret, was nothing short of intriguing and I questioned our guide, Jeanne Mozier, about it. She provided me with a few details and only later did I discover that she wrote an entire book about the place, so I made it a point to purchase it at a local gift shop.

castle
The Berkeley Castle
In her book titled, "The Story of Berkeley Castle: What's True and What's Not," Mozier describes the structure as being built in 1885 at the directive of businessman Samual Taylor Suit. Constructed from sandstone, the castle includes 15 interior rooms and a basement "dungeon." Work was completed by 1887 and soon afterward Samuel, his third wife Rosa and their three children moved into the abode.

Taylor Suit, as he preferred to be called, possessed not only a peculiar name but also an intriguing story--details of which unfold in Mozier's book. The "railroad man/distiller" ended up marrying a total of three times during his life. His first marriage, to his bosses' daughter, ended tragically when his wife died while giving birth to a son, who also passed.

Suit eventually ended up in Manhattan where he (once again) married the daughter of a business connection. This paved his way to a seat on the New York Stock Exchange.

The couple conceived two children, of which only one survived and marriage number two sadly ended in divorce.

By 1883, Suit was ready to marry again, perhaps feeling as if the third time would be a charm. The 51-year-old businessman likely raised a few eyebrows by marrying a woman who was 30 years his junior. Rosa, too, had "connections." Her father served one term in the U.S. Congress, worked at the U.S. Treasury and also practiced law.

By 1888 however, Suit's business connections were all for naught. He succumbed to illness, leaving the 27-year-old widow with, well, pretty much everything, on the caveat that she would never remarry.

According to Mozier, "After a brief period of mourning, Rosa launched what would be a decade of glittering parties" and although she never did remarry, rumor had it that she took on a lover. The noted horseman was also heir to "Ravenswood," another "cottage" estate nearby.

The local press reported breathlessly on the young widow's extravagant parties, from the decor of the mansion to the elite invitees, to the activities therein: "There was dancing to a coronet band and then a march to the supper room at 11:30 p.m. for a bountiful repast," reads one article.

The socialite seemed to revel in her role as "talk of the town." An interesting tidbit in the book mentions a smoking habit, which was considered a scandalous practice among women of the era. "The Hotel Dunn would order her gold-tipped Malachrino cigarettes, made especially for the ladies," reports Mozier.

Rosa's over-the-top lifestyle finally caught up with her and the creditors came a calling, prompting her to change her last name to Soult at one point. She was eventually booted from the castle, after a brief period of what appears, (from information provided in the book), to be squatting, although I doubt they used that term back in the day.

Over the years, aspiring entrepreneurs attempted to run the castle as a business venture. It was used as an artists' residence, a boys' camp and a tea room. Weddings were catered there as well.

Eventually, a man by the name of Walter Bird purchased the residence and gave it a little stability, conducting daily tours for a period of 50 years. The residence was later sold at auction and bought by investors in 2000. That relationship turned out to be short-lived and it was sold again in 2002 to an out-of-towner named Andrew Gosline who got caught up in the bidding on his birthday.

It has remained uninhabited since Gosline passed away in 2014 and has been closed to the public since.

Restaurants, Shops and More
shops

Berkeley Springs is a compact little town, making it very walkable with a variety of shops and restaurants all within close proximity. A small museum situated at the far end of Berkeley Springs state park describes the area's history in a series of panels and is home to a 400-pound sandstone that was pulled from Warm Springs Ridge.

sandstone
A 400-pound sandstone on display at the museum located on the grounds of Berkeley Springs State Park.
Guests will find plenty of places to browse among the many shops that line the streets. For antique lovers, the Berkeley Springs Antique Mall on Fairfax street features a large variety of items sold by dozens of dealers. Glassware, ephemera, estate jewelry, furniture and more can be found here.
Guests can even poke around the public library located downtown or take in a show at a historic old theater by the name of "The Star." Dining opportunities offer a little something for all tastes and budgets. During my visit, I enjoyed a stellar brunch prepared by Chef Devin Lucas at Tari's Cafe.

brunch
A spectacular brunch at Tari's Cafe on Washington Street

theatre
The Star Theatre has been serving the area for 89 years now.

shop
The Naked Olive is one of the many shops that line the street.

Library
The Morgan County Public Library located in Berkeley Springs
Those looking for a quiet, laid back, inexpensive vacation will find plenty to do and see during a weekend in Berkeley Springs. My only regret is that I didn't visit this picturesque little area during the summer when everything was green and in bloom, but with temperatures soaring into the '70s in late February, who am I to complain?

Savoring the Flavor of Miami

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restaurant
South Beach is colorful and welcoming
In my neck of the woods it's pouring outside and the weekend looks to be a total washout as well. It's times like these when I become ambitious about updating my blog since my outside plans have been scuttled and it's well past time anyway.

As I reflect on this cloudy, rainy day, my thoughts are transported back to the beautiful weather we experienced while visiting Miami and since I've never written about the area for Cheeseplates and Room Service, I thought it might be a good time to do so.

Seeing the Sights
skyline


I've mentioned before that the best way to obtain an overall feel for an area is to start with a Big Bus Tour. One-day passes will set you back approximately $40 and you'll learn a lot in a relatively short amount of time, which will enable you to return to your favorite places later.

Last year when I visited the area, I spent the first day on the bus, learning about the history and culture of the area from a knowledgeable guide who not only pointed out landmarks, but also provided us the backstory on many of them. Hopping on and off on a whim was a breeze, due to a steady circulation schedule that ran from 8:30 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. Shooting pictures is easier from the upper tier, but take heed to apply sunscreen, or you're likely to get a nasty burn in the blazing Miami sun.

The Miami Big Bus Tours are separated into three categories: The Beach Loop, the City Loop and the Uptown Loop and the vehicles are color-coded so you can easily discern which bus to catch, depending on where you would like to go.

The Beach Loop
shore
The Beach Loop transports passengers across the MacArthur Causeway to South Beach, where they can take in a view of the colorful, carefully tended art deco hotels that are prevalent along the bustling Ocean Drive.

Ocean Drive is also lined with restaurants, all competing against each other and vying for your business. Expect employees to approach you often along the way. The formula usually involves menu thrusting and questions on why you aren't interested in dining at a particular establishment. At one point, I decided to walk in the street to avoid the tiresome ritual.

Despite that minor issue, Ocean Drive is a fun, party-central basecamp if your bag is sitting outside and watching the world go by while consuming copious amounts of alcohol. Tourists gather from around the world to eat, drink and be merry on the famous commercial stretch of land and there are more than a few opportunities to "get your drink on."

Sweet and sugary drinks are the rage here and are traditionally served in fish bowl-sized vessels featuring two upside-down Coronas. In my quest for a less sugary drink, I fell in love with the Caprihena and I do wish more bartenders would serve them where I live.

Good luck finding a place that will serve you a normal-sized drink however. No matter what time of day you happen to visit the area, you're guaranteed to get a vat of alcohol, with the accordant calories, but hey, when you're on vacation, you're on vacation. Plenty of happy people spend hours on Ocean Drive bar hopping and having an overall great time. One girl staggered up to me at the end of the night and told me she was a psychic and determined that I had "the gift, too." Did I mention they make the drinks strong on Ocean Drive?
drinks
Monster Drinks are standard on Ocean Drive
If you're lucky enough to nab a hotel room on Ocean Drive, you'll have easy access to the nearby beach located directly across the street where many spend hours sunbathing, swimming and people watching.
mansion
The old Versace mansion on Ocean Drive is now operating as The Villa Casa Casuarina Hotel
At one point, we decided to escape the crowd on Ocean Drive and take a quiet walk on Collins Avenue to seek out a place to eat. When spotted the words"Quality Meats," on the side of a hotel, we were more than a little intrigued and took turns guessing what might be inside--a grocery store, a butcher shop, a deli?  We finally decided to check it out and were surprised to discover that it was a full-service restaurant featuring dishes like filet, duck and sirloin, so we opted to give it a try and dine al fresco on the patio. We were both quite happy with our entrees and delighted that we managed to stumble onto the place.
steak
Filet, done three ways at Quality Meats in Miami.
If you choose to dine on the terrace, be sure to check out the bar's focal point--a meat-hook chandelier.

The City Loop

peacocks
Peacocks roam Coconut Grove.

school
Coconut Grove Elementary School 

dress
One of the dresses displayed in a boutique window.
The City Loop takes riders to Coconut Grove, one of the oldest, continuously inhabited areas of Miami. The Grove offers plenty of shopping opportunities, from open-air malls to boutiques. Disembark at Cocowalk and you'll find men's and women's fashions, jewelry, gifts, accessories and more. Bistros, restaurants, and bars are open until 3 a.m. in this area and attract many area college students from the University of Miami.

I suppose we didn't venture far enough to see any of the much-touted peacocks, which were once celebrated, as seen in the statue above. When I began writing this blog today, I decided to learn more about the peacock phenomenon and discovered that they appear to be wearing out their welcome. You can click here to read the story on how locals are no longer enraptured with the beautiful birds. I'll provide a snippet from the article dated July, 2016: "They're beautiful animals, and in the beginning, they're nice," Coconut Grove resident Danny Mugnai says. And then comes the but: "But they really are a nuisance, and they're going to get over-populated if they're not already. They yell at all times of the day, they go on cars and scratch the roofs. There was a guy who had a Ferrari and they scratched the whole car." According to the article, there's a lot of untoward PDA occurring as well, which has the residents in a bit of a flutter with plenty of peacock pique. The bucolic Coconut Grove has been more fowl than fair lately and that's not setting well with the residents. It reminds me of the chicken predicament in Key West.

But enough with the peacock problems--on to the City Loop where riders have the opportunity to view one of the first planned communities. Coral Gables, famous for its strict zoning ordinances and its Mediterranean-style architecture, is known as "City Beautiful" and is home to the University of Miami. Disembarking at the Village of Merrick Park is a must if you enjoy restaurants and upscale shops like Neiman Marcus, Jimmy Choo, Burberry, Nordstrom and Gucci, to name just a few.

At the end of the city loop is "Little Havana," and those who purchase a 48-hour "Big Bus" ticket can take advantage of a free, one-hour walking tour of the area to learn a brief history of how the Cuban people came to settle in the area and the changes that have taken place over the years.

The Uptown Loop
Miami
Art adorns warehouses in Miami's uptown loop

The most interesting loop, in my opinion, is the Uptown Loop, which takes tourists to Wynwood, Midtown, Historic Overtown and the Design District where a plethora of low-rise warehouses have been converted into art galleries, restaurants and cafes. Those visiting on the second Saturday of the month can join a community-wide Art & Design night held from 7-10 p.m. where galleries and design showroom owners welcome the general public with music and refreshments.
Miami
art
Warehouses in the Design District feature art by local artists.

Sampling Local Cuisine
Before making reservations at area dining establishments, you might want to first take advantage of a culinary tour. Miami Culinary Tours offers excursions into Little Havana, South Beach, Wynwood and Miami City.

The 2.5-hour tours include several stops designed to give visitors an overview of the area and its cuisine. "For example, we cover the art deco district, how it got started, who preserved it in the 1980s and the events that changed Miami altogether," said tour founder Grace Della.

Guests can time their walk to coincide with either the lunch, or the dinner hour. "We stop at places ranging from five-star, to mom-and-pop places where they serve amazing food at a fraction of the price," said Della.

No Shortage of Places to Stay

hotel
Hilton Grand Vacations at McAlpin Ocean-Plaza 
hotel
The Penguin Hotel is located on Ocean Drive
Miami's tourism industry is booming and, as such, there is no dearth of places to stay. Because we wanted to stay in the heart of the action, we chose the Hotel Leslie on the bustling Ocean Drive.
hotel
The Hotel Leslie on Ocean Drive

On our Big Bus Tour, we learned that the Fontainebleau on Collins Avenue is one of the most popular destinations for the well-heeled.
hotel
The famous  Fontainebleau in Miami

"The Fontainebleau is the largest resort in Miami, with 1,500 hotel rooms, five restaurants and one of the top-grossing nightclubs in the world called LIV. It's the place to be and be seen," said Kristina D'Amico, an area hospitality consultant.

Walking off the street and peeking inside isn't an option, however and the cover charge alone will set you back between $40 and $100, depending on the night's entertainment. Even if you are willing to shell out the coin for the cover, you may not gain entrance, according to D'Amico. "It depends on who is manning the door," she said.

Another upscale lodging option also located on Collins Avenue is EDITION. Located on a 3.5-acre enclave, the property stretches from Collins Avenue to the shoreline and bills itself as a "unique, world-class urban resort," offering many amenities.

Those interested in a more affordable stay can't go wrong perusing the options at Airbnb, where rooms, apartments and houses are offered to appeal to a wide variety of budgets.

These are just a few suggestions to take advantage of everything Miami has to offer. Those who are interested in booking a room on Ocean Drive might find it helpful to know that the crowds start small on Monday and grow larger as the weekend approaches.

Because there is so much to do and see in Miami, I recommend a minimum of five nights to take in the entire experience without feeling rushed. And most importantly, be sure to pack the sunscreen!










Chambersburg in Two Days

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Old Jail
The Old Jail, which is home to the Franklin County Historical Society.
One of my favorite things to do when the weather turns nice is to jump in the car and hit the road to explore a nearby town, so when an opportunity to visit Chambersburg arose, I was more than happy to clear the schedule for two days to get a better sense of what the area has to offer.

What is a bit odd about my trip to Chambersburg is that despite writing a weekly article for the Chambersburg Public Opinion for a period of approximately seven years, I never spent any significant time in the area.

Oh sure, I managed to get there for a few major annual events like Icefest, which I've written about many times, and the re-creation of the Burning of Chambersburg (which I highly recommend), but taking a leisurely poke around wasn't in the cards for various reasons, that is, until recently.

For those needing a little background, the Borough of Chambersburg is located approximately 13 miles north of Maryland and is home to approximately 20,000 residents. The area is known for its rich history and more importantly its resilience after the entire town was burned down and forced to rebuild back in the 1800s.

Exploring Downtown
The walkable downtown has many shopping opportunities, but first, it may be helpful to know the parking logistics. Several lots are conveniently located around town, but most meters still take quarters, even though they appear to be modern, with kiosks and a central location for paying. You won't find me complaining about the cost, however. It's not often you have the opportunity to park in a downtown area for a mere 25 cents an hour.

Shops, Restaurants and More
When I pulled into the downtown area, not only did the mural located at 33 N. Main Street catch my eye, but I also learned that the adjacent lot provided parking that is convenient to nearby restaurants and shops at the aforementioned bargain of 25 cents an hour.
mosaic
A Chambersburg Community Art Project led by Isaiah Zagar
Later research revealed that the mosaic was the result of a community art project led by Philadelphia-based mosaic mural artist Isaiah Zagar--the same individual who was responsible for creating Philadelphia's Magic Gardens, a destination I've yet to visit.

While downtown, I made it a point to stop in one shop in particular. Olympia Candy Kitchen has been a mainstay in the Chambersburg area since 1903 and various musicians I'd interviewed throughout the years mentioned visiting it while performing at the nearby historic Capitol Theatre.

The business, which began as a soda fountain and candy store, has lasted through the Great Depression and World War II. They've modernized their production equipment over the years but have maintained the old-fashioned decor which harkens back to a simpler time and features hanging gas lights and Tiffany lamps.

The Old Jail
jail

After exploring downtown, I headed out to the Franklin County Historical Society for a tour of "The Old Jail." Built in 1818, the jail was one of the few structures that survived the burning of Chambersburg by Confederate forces in 1864.
drugs
Wagaman's Pharmacy recreated in the Old Jail. The business was run by a father/son team from 1886 to 1966 and was located at 49 N. Main Street. On display are original drugs and equipment.
pharmacy
These vessels used to hang in the window of pharmacies. A red color warned of a disease outbreak.

Used as a prison for 150 years, the jail is enclosed by a 20-foot high limestone wall and has housed numerous prisoners throughout the years. Docents share their stories and invite guests to inspect the cellar, which contains five-domed dungeons complete with rings in the walls and floors used for shackling prisoners.

Guides also tell the tale of Louisa Brand, who wrapped herself in a flag in a successful effort to spare her house from being burned to the ground.  The flag is displayed in a glass case in the jail. Another building of note that was spared the burning was the Masonic Lodge located at 74 South Second Street due to the intervention of a high-ranking Confederate Officer, who also happened to be a Freemason.
flag
Louisa Brand wrapped herself in a flag so the Confederate troops would spare her home. She also brandished a revolver...
dungeon
Dungeon area of the jail. 

cell
Door opens to a cell in the older part of the jail. 
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Close up of the lock to the front door of the jail.
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Cell blocks in the newer part of the jail. 
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Cell interior


jailyard
The jail yard with gallows. 
Dungeon in the jail. 

I found it quite humorous that one apparent recidivist inscribed this on the walls of the jail. As a matter of fact, I thought him to be quite clever. Only later did I learn that his "poetry" was borrowed from an old folk song.
folk song
Old folk song penned by prisoner.
The Story of Escape Artist Merle Unger

One prisoner, who gained a bit of notoriety for his skill as an escape artist, was Merle Unger, whose crimes initially included things like car theft, breaking and entering and joyriding. It was said that he would scale the wall at night to carouse. The jig was up when he was caught playing bingo by a Deputy who, also there trying his luck, spotted him from across the room. In 1975, Unger attempted to "get gone for good." He scaled the limestone wall and escaped to York, Pennsylvania. One wonders what old Merle was thinking when he wrote a letter to his girlfriend in jail and scrawled his return address on the front of the envelope! Needless to say, Merle was recaptured. That particular incarceration lasted a whole three hours. Several months later a cot was made up again for him when he was caught robbing a Carlisle ice cream store.

I learned more about Unger quite by accident.  During my jail tour, I noticed that a staff member seemed to be making progress with a book. The bright yellow paperback, riddled with bullet hole graphics, was splayed right-side up on a desk with the front and back cover showing. Intrigued, I inspected further, The title read, "American Berserk, A Cub Reporter, a Small-Town Daily, the Schizo '70s." Well, that appeared to be right up my alley, so immediately after the tour, I visited Northwood Books on North Main in a quest to locate the novel. I strolled around for a bit until I stumbled into a back room where the author was reading from the very book I was seeking, so of course I nabbed an autographed copy.

The fun part about discovering the book was that the author Bill Morris worked as a staffer at the Chambersburg Public Opinion, the very same paper for which I wrote so many articles as a freelancer. Learn more about Merle Unger, the escape artist and his ultimate fate in Morris' book, which can be found here.

A Victorian Bed and Breakfast
bed and breakfast
The Craig Victorian
During my visit, I spent a delightful two days in a spacious room in a beautiful old Mansion called the "Craig Victorian," located near Wilson College.The mansion features eight comfortable guest rooms and the woodwork inside is positively stunning. My room located on the third floor was spacious, complete with an adorable little writing table in the turret overlooking the street and I would be remiss if I didn't mention the quiche, which ranks up there among the best I've ever eaten.
Bed and Breakfast
The first floor of the Craig Victorian.
cat
A glimpse inside my boudoir. I let the family cat in, which was likely against the rules. 


cat
A sitting room inside the Craig Victorian. Note the little girl on the left. She has had quite enough of me canoodling with her cat Jasper.


sculpture
A natural "sculpture" in front of nearby Wilson College.

quiche
A cheesy, delicious quiche served at the Craig Victorian Bed and Breakfast.

Brewery Suggestions
If you're a craft beer enthusiast, consider visiting Roy Pitz located at 140 North Third Street for a laid-back lunch and one of their award-winning beers, all of which are crafted on site in the basement of the repurposed three-story brick warehouse, which dates back to the 1900s.

brewery
Outside of Roy Pitz Brewery

The business is run by Chambersburg natives Ryan Richards and Jesse Rotz who joined forces to forge a business partnership. They opened the brewpub in Chambersburg in 2008 and have, to date, amassed 23 World Beer Championship medals. They most recently expanded into the Philadelphia area in May of 2017.

brewery
Inside Roy Pitz
If you're with a group and visiting Chambersburg sometime between Thursday and Sunday, the Gearhouse Brewing Company is a fun, spacious adult retreat, which serves beer crafted on site and small plates for sharing. Customers can wrap up a busy work week by gathering at the bar, retiring to adjacent rooms to play board games, engage in a competitive game of air hockey, or simply lounge around with libations on comfy couches.

The business opened in January and is the culmination of a project undertaken by six Chambersburg natives whose passion is beer and it shows. Follow their Facebook page throughout the year to learn about upcoming events like beer dinners and live music.
brewing
Inside GearHouse Brewing Co.
These few idea should give you a start on making the most of a short visit to Chambersburg--a town that marries history with modernity and offers a little something for everyone.









A Summer Day in Beautiful Bellefonte, Pa

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The first time I visited Bellefonte, I let out a huge wail after someone slapped my rear and I haven't been the same since. It took me decades to muster up the temerity to return to the town of my birth, but I finally found the time to give it another shot, and I'm happy to report, there was no violence involved.

I lasted visited on a cold, winter weekend in 2015 when the air was frigid and the sky overcast, but my room at The Queen Bed and Breakfast located on Linn Street was cozy and comfortable. I quickly fell in love with the small town and the romantic Victorian architecture. Soon I was dreaming of residing in one of the stately mansions until reality set in and I imagined the heating bills. I awoke from my reverie when the stars in my eyes morphed into menacing dollar signs.
mansion
The Reyolds' mansion located on Linn Street is just one example of the beautiful buildings in Bellefonte.

That cold November afternoon, I watched Talleyrand Park whiz by from the warmth of my car and vowed to return when the weather was warmer and the grass greener.

Last weekend I finally returned to Bellefonte and once again enjoyed the hospitality of Nancy Noll at The Queen. The Victorian bed and breakfast is located within walking distance of downtown, yet residential enough to be evocative of living like a local. Noll seems to think of everything to ensure guests' comfort, from lights that turn on automatically as you pad down the hallways, to providing coffee, tea, and mini-refrigerators on each floor.

During this excursion, my husband and I stayed in the Governor's Suite. Bellefonte breeds Governors, it seems--a total of seven native sons have been elected, hence the name. Our room was spacious and thoughtfully appointed with a fishing theme, luring one's interest with interesting items at every turn. We slept soundly--the king-sized bed was a dream and the lovely, bright, separate sitting room was perfect for reading, or writing a blog, for instance.

room
The Governor's Room at The Queen with its incredibly comfortable King-sized bed.

lodging

room

room
A bright and cozy sitting room, perfect for reading or working.
fruit
A prelude to delicious eggs benedict.

view from a Bellefonte Bed and Breakfast
This shot was taken through the window of the Governor's Suite
Getting Lit at an Old Match Factory
Since Talleyrand Park is adjacent to Big Spring Spirits, I thought why not take a little detour for a large libation. Founded in 2014, the distillery, which has a cocktail room and tasting lounge, is run by Penn State grads Paula Cipar and Kevin Lloyd, who repurposed space in an old match factory. The building dates back to 1931 and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.


distillery
Big Spring Spirits
The interior is modern, eclectic and spacious with bar, table and couch seating. Customers can choose from an array of rum, vodka, whiskey and "Governor's" gin. The owners pride themselves on being the first LEED-certified distillery in the state of Pennsylvania, the second in the country and the third in the world. Spirits are crafted with Bellefonte's award-winning Big Spring water deemed "Pennsylvania's Best Tasting Water" at the Pennsylvania Rural Water Association Conference. (I didn't realize what a big deal water tasting was until I became a "Certified Water Taster" myself. You can read more about my experience as a water judge here: http://www.cheeseplatesandroomservice.com/2017/03/whetting-my-whistle-as-water-judge-at.html)

Strolling through Talleyrand
Finally, I returned to Talleyrand. Lush and in full bloom, it made for a bucolic tableau. Few were visiting the park that sunny afternoon other than several small children frolicking on the playground and a few teens conversing on benches. A gazebo is available for picnics and coin-operated grain dispensers allow visitors to feed the huge fish that swim languidly in the waters below.

park

park

duck

ducks

Bellefonte native and sculpture George Grey Barnard (1863-1938) is also recognized in the park with a bust of Lincoln cast from an original. The sculptor is best known for his statuary which flanks the main entrance of the Pennsylvania Capitol Building. (See an earlier Bellefonte entry in this blog to view the scale model that is located in the Centre County Library and Historical Museum.)
Sculpture garden sign
sculpture
Lincoln sculpture by George Grey Barnard
Another homage to the past located in Talleyrand Park is a memorial to the seven Pennsylvania Governors who hailed from the area.
memorial
Bellefonte Governors' Memorial

Classic Car Show Hosted by Bellefonte Cruise
Every Fathers' Day weekend, Bellefonte Cruise rolls into town. This is the 29th year for the event that brings automobile aficionados into downtown Bellefonte. A Friday-night sock hop kicks everything off and the fun continues through the weekend. This year's "Cruise" attracted thousands of spectators and featured more than 300 cars, trucks and motorcycles.
car show
car
antique car
classic car
motorcycles

car
This is the 29th Year for the Annual Bellefonte Cruise

Thus ended a full day's worth of activities in Bellefonte. Day two included a walking tour, which I will save for another blog entry. Meanwhile, those interested in visiting may want to check out a few upcoming events in this scenic and historic area.

Upcoming Events 2017

Annual Fall Festival and Halloween Parade, October 14
Bellefonte Victorian Christmas, December 8 and 9




A Historical Walking Tour of Bellefonte

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Those who read this blog may recall that I returned to the town of my birth during the month of June to enjoy the area during the warmer weather. (I visited a year before in the winter months.)  While trip planning, I decided to set my sights on learning a little more about the many interesting and stately structures that dot the town.

Centre County Home


I learned that by the early 1800s, Bellefonte had become the most influential town in Pennsylvania between Pittsburgh and Harrisburg due to the booming iron industry. Today, many of those magnificent structures built by the titans of the time still stand.

For those who need a frame of reference, Bellefonte is located just 12 miles northeast of the State College, Pennsylvania where my father received his bachelor's degree. He was a mere sophomore when I arrived kicking and screaming at the hospital in nearby Bellefonte and I think I recall being informed that professor awarded him an "A" on an exam that day. Of course, that could just be family lore; I'm not entirely sure.

Those interested in visiting the Bellefonte area can easily fit in a little side trip to the thriving town of State College or stroll the grounds of "Old Main" in University Park and browse the blocks of shops that are located directly across the street from the college. I took a picture of the campus prior to getting caught in a downpour the weekend of our visit.

Old Main
The building known affectionately as"Old Main" located in nearby University Park
Viewing Bellefonte's Beautiful Buildings
I'm not sure how many people imagine living like a local when visiting another town, but I often entertain such flights of fancy. When I saw all the grand homes, my reporter instinct kicked in and I wanted to learn more. Lucky for me, the Talleyrand Citizens Committee did the initial work by creating a map listing 46 structures with a brief explanation of each. Copies are available at the Central Pennsylvania Convention and Visitors Bureau located at 800 East Park Avenue, so I stopped on the way into town to grab a copy and let my imagination wander.

It just so happened to be hot as blazes that weekend, so my goal of seeing each building fizzled along with my energy thanks to the scorching sun, but I am happy to say I managed to capture pictures of many of them, so without further adieu, here is what I learned on my self-guided, (albeit truncated), walking tour of Bellefonte.

bank
First National Bank Building & Crider Exchange Building
The First National Bank Building was once home to Pennsylvania Supreme Court Justice Thomas Burnside. First erected in 1872, it was later rebuilt 27 years later (this time with the Crider Exchange Building attached) after a fire decimated the home. The Talleyrand Park Citizens Committee describes the two buildings as "flamboyant examples of picturesque, eclectic 'anything goes' architecture."

Bellefonte
Attorney's Row
Located on East High Street on the North side of the courthouse, "Attorney's Row" contains examples of Italianate Period, Pennsylvania farmhouse and Georgian architectural styles.
Bellefonte house
George Grey Barnard house
At 113 E. Linn Street sits the birthplace of American sculptor George Grey Barnard. Barnard trained at the Ecole Nationale Superieure des Beaux-Arts in Paris from 1883-1887 and is famous for the statues that flank the entrance Pennsylvania State Capitol in Harrisburg. Models of those sculptures can be seen at the Centre County Library and Historical Museum.
You can see the statues and read more about a controversy that took place in 2011 in Harrisburg here.
Barnard is interred in Harrisburg, as per his request to be near his art.
Barnard
Model of the sculptures that greet guests at the entrance to the Pennsylvania State Capitol can be seen at the Centre County Library and Historical Museum.

Register of Historic Places
The Brockerhoff Hotel built in 1864
The Brockherhoff Hotel, located at 105 S. Allegheny Street, was built in 1864 by Henry Brockerhoff, who also built a grist mill in the area. The structure is a fine example of 1860-1870 Gothic Revival architecture and operates today as an assisted living facility.

mansion
The Reynold's Mansion
mansion
The Reynold's Mansion (rear view)
The Reynolds Mansion was once the site of a tavern that was popular in the late 1700s and run by a man by the name of George McKee. The current imposing structure was built in 1885 by a wealthy businessman, landowner, and banker by the name of Major William Frederick Reynolds. The exterior stone, known as "blue brownstone" due to its hue, was quarried by the Hummelstown Brownstone Company in Hummelstown, Pennsylvania. The mansion incorporates Gothic, Italianate and Queen Anne styles and today operates as a luxury bed and breakfast

Bellefonte Mansion
The Hastings Mansion
Daniel H. Hastings became Pennsylvania's 21st Governor and once resided in this impressive structure described by the Talleyrand Historical Society as a "polyglot" of architectural ideas, mostly classical. What I found most interesting about Hastings was that he began his career as a school teacher in Clinton County at the young age of 14 and by 18 was named principal of Bellefonte High School. Before being elected governor, he was involved in several other businesses, from coal mining to banking. Intelligent and industrious, he also worked as editor of the Bellefonte Republican newspaper. As a member of the Freemasons, Hastings also served as Worshipful Master at Bellefonte Lodge #268.

Potter House
The Potter Home
This Georgian home located on the corner of Allegheny and Howard Streets was built in 1815 by John Miles, the son of Colonel Samul Miles, Mayor of Philly and founder of Milesburg.

courthouse
The Bellefonte Courthouse 
The Bellefonte Courthouse was initially constructed in 1805 and a new one was built in 1854. The Soldiers and Sailors War Memorial, along with the statue of Andrew Gregg Curtin, who served as Governor of Pennsylvania from 1861-1867, were designed by Joseph M. Huston, the architect of the state capitol building in Harrisburg. (Huston, by the way, was one of five people who was convicted of graft in 1910 when the capitol building cost overruns raised a few eyebrows.)
Ironmaster's house
Ironmaster's Home
The house pictured above is located at 420 N. Allegheny Street and representative of the homes built by Ironmasters in the 19th century. This particular home was built by George Valentine of the Valentine Iron Company and dates back to 1879. By 1898, the Valentine Iron Company's heyday had run its course and the company was sold to out-of-state buyers at a Sheriff's sale.
Bellefonte
The Bush Arcade
The Bush Arcade was built in the late 1880s to replace the original which was destroyed by fire. In the late 1880s, it was home to a bank, offices, a gentleman's clothing store, a post office, a dry goods store and other retail.
Bush Arcade
An old picture of the Bush arcade ( Fred D. Smith collection)
hospital
Bellefonte's First Hospital
Bellefonte's first hospital was housed at 113 South Spring Street. The lot on which the building stands was first owned by Thomas Burnside who practiced law in Bellefonte and went on to become a member of the U.S. House of Representatives and justice of the Supreme Court of Pennsylvania.
Brisbin
Brisbin Home
Pictured above is what was once the abode of James Sanks Brisbin, a teacher who purchased and edited the Centre Democrat newspaper in Bellefonte and later served as a general in the Union Army during the Civil War. Built in 1865, it was constructed of bricks that were hand wrapped and shipped from Philadelphia and is a fine example of Italian revival architecture. Today the structure is home to offices.
Keichline building
A Historical Marker exists in front of this Anna Wagner Keichline building 
Anna Wagner Keichline was born in Bellefonte in 1889 and by age 14 she was breaking barriers by exhibiting her talent in woodworking and taking home first prize at the county fair for an oak card table and a walnut chest. Keichline studied at Pennsylvania State University before transferring to Cornell, where she was the fifth female to graduate with a degree in architecture. The enterprising and hard working Centre County native went on to become the first female architect in Pennsylvania. During her lifetime she worked on many projects, accrued seven patents, advocated for women's rights and served as a special agent during WWI.  To this day, all of Keichline's buildings in the area are in good condition and in use. That includes the Plaza Centre, which now operates as an antique gallery, and is located at 124 West High.

bank
"The Manse" at 201 W. High
This was the site of a home belonging to Reverand James Linn, pastor of the Bellefonte Presbyterian Church. Linn's son Samuel went on to become a Pennsylvania judge for whom Linn Street is named. "The Manse" at 201 W. High once operated as the First National Bank and is a mixture of Gothic, Romanesque and Egyptian architecture. The picturesque building is now home to the law offices of Hamilton and Kimmel.

Match Factory
Once part of the Pennsylvania Match Factory, Big Springs Spirits operates now as a distillery.
Matches were hot back in the day and Bellefonte was home to one of the largest match factories in the United States, producing the product on this site from 1900 through 1947. Workers completed all aspects of production here, transforming a simple block of wood into all manner of matches, from strike-anywhere matches, to safety matches, parlor matches and noiseless double-dip matches. According to the historical society, the factory reached its peak employment during World War II, supplying water-proof matches to American servicemen at home and abroad.

The match factory may have closed, but employees there are still helping people get a little lit. Big Springs Spirits has been operating in the area since 2014 and provides guests with an inviting space to kick back and socialize. Owners Kevin Lloyd and Paula Cipar now distill 12 libations, including vodka, several rums, gins, whiskey and cream bourbon, so when you tire of touring, Big Springs Spirits is the perfect way to end the day.

These are just a few of the 46 structures on the historical, self-guided walking tour provided by the Talleyrand Park Citizens Committee. The map not only lists addresses, but also provides specifics on each of the structures, along with historical markers, information about the seven Governors who hailed from the area, topographical insight and other interesting information that makes the beautiful borough of Bellefonte unique.

Happy Touring!























Visiting Lancaster's Conestoga House and Gardens

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gardens

Garden lovers still have time before the summer season ends to visit the Conestoga House and Gardens located at 1608 Marietta Avenue in Lancaster, Pennsylvania. Once home to James Hale Steinman and his wife Louise McClure Tinsley, the gardens of the plush, 20-acre property are open to the public through September.

The couple purchased the land, including the original house and several outbuildings, in 1927. Philadelphia architects Mellor, Meigs and Howe were commissioned to design extensive additions and modifications, creating what has been described as an outstanding example of Colonial Revival architecture. The work was completed in 1929, and the Conestoga House itself has remained essentially unchanged since then.
Steinman
Mr. and Mrs. Steinman
The Lord of the Manor
Col. James Hale Steinman was a Yale graduate, a practicing attorney, a WWI veteran and an entrepreneur, with a keen interest in radio and television. By the 1930s, he and his brother owned nine AM stations in eastern Pennsylvania and Delaware and in 1949, the brothers founded WGAL-TV as one of the first VHF television station in the country. At the peak of their interest, the Steinman brothers owned six stations.

Steinman could be described as a "media mogel" in his neck of the woods and developed an interest in print, as well, serving as President and co-publisher of Lancaster Newspapers, Inc., which today is known as LNP Media Group, Inc.

After Colonial Steinman’s death, the house and grounds were incorporated as part of the James Hale Steinman Conestoga House Foundation.

The Lady
Louise McClure Tinsley Steinman was born in Nashville, Tennessee to a direct descendant of Charlemagne. Her interests included showing saddle horses, traveling, antiques and, of course, flowers.

A civic-minded individual, Mrs. Steinman served on numerous boards and in 1974 created the Louise Steinman von Hess Foundation to preserve historically significant buildings in Lancaster County. One of her first endeavors was to restore Columbia's Wright's Ferry Mansion to its original state.
She also helped establish the Louise von Hess Foundation for Medical Education to provide continuing education for Lancaster area physicians.

Ms. Steinman passed away on November 12, 1980, nearly 18 years after her James Hale Steinman's death.

The Parties

Louise and James became known for their bridge parties, tennis matches and other outdoor entertainment in the gardens. The couple hosted international celebrities and high-ranking business and government officials and invitations were highly prized. Said one social columnist in 1946, “Everyone who visits the James Hale Steinmans in Lancaster hints like mad for a return invitation. The reason one casts the amenities to the wind and resorts to such out-and-out measures is the combination of beauty, comfort and fun that Conestoga House offers to every one of its continuous stream of weekend visitors.”

patio
sunroom


The Grounds
Today guests can stroll the grounds and imagine what it was like to snag a coveted invitation to the place where the rich and famous frolicked at what was then known as one of the largest residences in Lancaster County.


Rose
160 rose bushes representing 20 varieties of roses can be seen on the grounds. 
The current horticultural collection includes 3,300 annuals, a collection of bonsai, 400 tropical plants, 160 varieties of perennials and more than 20 types of roses. A selection of topiary, flowering Urns, and window boxes add a bit of a European flair, providing additional visual interest.
topiary
Topiary 
flower
Passion Flower

hibiscus
Hibiscus

Cactus
outside garden room


sitting area
Sitting area outside at Conestoga House and Gardens

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One of the first in-ground pools installed in Lancaster County

The pool "complex," with its 60-foot swimming pool, bathhouse and dance floor is used today by various civic groups for picnics and special events. Nearby, guests can relax in a shady sitting area built atop a lime kiln in view of a collection of tropical plants.

One of the newest installations includes a water garden featuring hardy lilies, aquatic plants and thriving koi.
lily
Water Lilly 

Tours are self-guided for groups of 15 or less. Groups of more than 15 can make arrangements for a guide by calling in advance. Gardens are open from mid-June through September. Directions and hours can be found on the website at www.conestogahouse.org.

Columbus Antiquities Discovered in the Unlikeliest of Places

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Sometimes it's amazing the roundabout way we discover treasures that were heretofore unbeknownst to us. In fact, it was quite by accident that I learned that Pennsylvania is home to an impressive collection of antiquities once owned by Christopher Columbus--yes, that  Christopher Columbus--the one who sailed the ocean blue in Fourteen Hundred Ninety-Two.

I learned about the collection after returning from Key West, where I visited the Hemingway House. When I sat down to share the details on this blog, I realized that I needed a few more specifics about the abode that once belonged to the famous author, so I picked up the phone to reach out to the contacts listed on the web page. The kind lady who answered my questions soon discovered that I lived in Pennsylvania. She then shared that she hailed from the Boalsburg area and marveled at the fact that as a travel writer, I was unaware of the astounding collection of Christopher Columbus artifacts that are tucked away in her small corner of the woods. 

Since then, I always tell people that we made our way to the treasures in Boalsburg by way of Key West.

The Boal Mansion Museum
house
The mansion from the front

Boalsburg is home to fewer than 4,000 inhabitants, but it also has the distinction of being known as the birthplace of Memorial Day. The kind lady on the phone offered up that little factoid as well. It's amazing how few realize the historical importance of Boalsburg, let alone the fact that a king's ransom of priceless artifacts lies just beyond the treeline on business route 322.    

Less than two hours after leaving our home near Harrisburg, we found ourselves navigating our way up a long gravel driveway to the 200-year old Boal Estate and poking around the "rustic" grounds which are home to the "Columbus" chapel and the Boal Mansion. Director Bob Cameron explained that manicured lawns don't necessarily "hew to history" and furthermore, a tornado had just touched down taking out several large trees. We felt lucky to have avoided that storm.

A docent greeted us and led us through the Mansion first, providing us with a great deal of information about the Boal family beginning with David Boal, a Scottish-Irish pioneer. Boal, in his quest for inexpensive land and freedom, founded the village and established a popular tavern nearby. The mansion began as a simple log home and evolved into what it is today.

David's son George became a farmer and advocated for those who worked the land after securing a seat in the Pennsylvania House of Representatives and founding the Centre County Agricultural Society. The Farmer's College, now known as Pennsylvania State University, is located in nearby State College. Penn State fans can thank George for that.

The Columbus connection can be attributed to the fourth generation of the Boal family. Colonel Theodore Davis Boal traveled to Europe in the 1890s to study architecture. It was there that he met a French-Spanish aristocrat by the name of Mathilde de Lagarde, who was related to Christopher Columbus by marriage.

Visitors who tour the mansion will view original furnishings belonging to the Boal family, along with portraits, tools, weapons, place settings and other artifacts.

The Boal family was "well-connected" and it shows. Among the collection are five different original presidential signatures, a lock of Napolean's hair, (de Largarde was a descendant of Josephine), and items signed by the astronauts from Apollo 11. I'd be remiss in failing to mention the items that are on display from King Tut's great grandparents' tomb, courtesy of George Jack Boal, who married a woman whose brother-in-law was the Egyptologist who made the discovery.

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The Living Room/Library of the Boal Mansion was added to the home in 1809.

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The Boal Mansion Dining Room
The elegant Boal Mansion ballroom was added in 1898 by Theodore Davis Boal and features a piano once owned by Dolly Madison.
Piano owned by Dolly Madison

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Ballroom at the Boal Mansion 
Docents prefer to hold the information about the contents of the Columbus Chapel close to the vest until the end of the house tour when guests are then led to an ancient-looking stone structure with a unique backstory all its own.

The Columbus Chapel
Located just a short walk from the mansion, the Columbus Chapel is said to contain "the most significant collection of Christopher Columbus artifacts in North America." For this, you can thank Mathilde de Lagarde, the wife of Theodore Boal. De Lagarde inherited the collection from her Aunt Dona Victoria Columbus. Columbus died widowed and childless and willed the chapel to her niece. Colonel Boal's initial desire was to transport the structure to Boalsburg, but the Spanish government would have no parts of it, so he decided to build an exact replica on the Boalsburg mansion grounds and move all the contents to the property.

The anticipation of what lies beyond hangs heavily in the air as the docent fiddles with the lock on the metal security doors. Finally, it's time to reveal the original entrance to the chapel. The ornately carved, old heavy wood door doesn't disappoint and leads the way to the collection within.
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The ornately carved door leads the way to the antiquities therein.

There's a sense of reverence inside the cozy structure that touts an array of ancient artifacts, like a well-used admiral's desk that Columbus pressed into service on his four journeys to the New World, 15th-century paintings and various statues ranging in date from the 14th-17th century. The Columbus Family Tree and Coat of Arms hang above on the choir loft and silk religious vestments with gold embroidery as old as 500 years are stored behind a clear partition in a chest of drawers.
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The interior of the Columbus Chapel in Boalsburg, Pennsylvania

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Columbus Coat of Arms
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Funeral vestments may strike fear into the hearts of some
Stored inside a leather case is a silver reliquary, which is said to contain two pieces of the true cross of Jesus Christ brought back during the Crusades. On the wall hangs a manuscript attesting to its authenticity as certified by a Spanish Bishop.
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The reliquary ensconced in its case
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Inside the silver reliquary are two pieces of wood said to be part left arm of the "True Cross"
Hidden behind confessional doors are 165,000 pages of family archives dating back to the year 1451. One wonders if they shouldn't be hermetically sealed in some manner, but we were assured that the correspondence has been cataloged for posterity courtesy of the Pennsylvania State University.

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Confessionals which store correspondence dating back to the 1400s.

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If you're interested in viewing this amazing collection, there's still time to do so before the season's end. Tours are conducted daily from 1:30 to 5:00 p.m. through October 30. 

You can learn more about the Columbus Chapel and Boal Mansion Museum website by clicking on this link




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